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-   3rd gen T4Rs (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/)
-   -   Went Down the Rabbit Hole - Here's what I'm doing (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/282675-went-down-rabbit-hole-heres-what-im-doing.html)

jimmyrecluse 02-07-2020 01:46 PM

Went Down the Rabbit Hole - Here's what I'm doing
 
99 SR5 4WD 3.4 - lifted and supercharged - well that's still in a box in my garage but going in soon, 3 pass radiator, Tundra 231mm

This weeks front end project

Replace upper and lower ball joints - OEM
Replace U/L CA Bushings - Whiteline
Replace sway endlinks - Whiteline
Replace outer tie rods - OEM
Replace CV axles and seals - OEM
Replace f/wheel bearings and seals - OEM
Transmission Mount - OEM
Cam Bolts

I'm going into the wheel bearing project myself, will take them to a shop to have pressed IF I have to cross that road.

Would appreciate tips if you got em

4restGump 02-07-2020 01:55 PM

Installation of the SC is real easy. The hardest part was the belt, lol. Have fun

RandyBobandy 02-07-2020 02:01 PM

good thing you aren't in the rust belt, my LCA bushing replacement was a nightmare, thankfully I have a press, but it was definitely worth it. for the LCA bushings I burned the old bushing out and then used a chisel to roll the edge of the old outer bushing sleeve inward, and then pressed it out using a big socket.

you can probably get away without the press and just hammer the sleeve out with a chisel but mine were basically a solid mass of rust. I installed aftermarket uppers on mine but I imagine it would be the same. I actually only had one seized alignment cam, the rest came off easily and I replaced them with the SPC ones that have the plastic sleeve to prevent seizing.

end links, tie rods, CVs, etc are easy compared to those bushings, my tie rods were rusted together so I replaced inner and outer at the same time, but still not a very hard job/

jimmyrecluse 02-07-2020 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RandyBobandy (Post 3438432)
good thing you aren't in the rust belt, my LCA bushing replacement was a nightmare, thankfully I have a press, but it was definitely worth it. /

Oh yes, I praised the fact that my parts and frame are super clean, no rust at all

mtbtim 02-07-2020 02:13 PM

I'm pretty sure you know about our channel, but just in case, here's a link: YouTube

We have a video for every single thing you have listed you want to do to your rig.

jimmyrecluse 02-07-2020 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtbtim (Post 3438452)
I'm pretty sure you know about our channel, but just in case, here's a link: YouTube

We have a video for every single thing you have listed you want to do to your rig.

Yup, I've checked them out, I just wish they were trimmed down a little. You show some great tips when something doesn't go straight forwards but it's like going to the movies! I wish I could get the 20 minute cuts. I like the notes you include with helpful tools

Right now Im making a list of tools and socket sizes. Doing this with tools I have and Autozone loaners for the specialty stuff - tie rod puller, bushing press, bearing press.

RandyBobandy 02-07-2020 03:24 PM

I bought a cheap set of 3 jaw pullers from harbor freight, I think it was like $30 and they work on all sorts of stuff so I would recommend getting those.

jimmyrecluse 02-07-2020 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RandyBobandy (Post 3438492)
I bought a cheap set of 3 jaw pullers from harbor freight, I think it was like $30 and they work on all sorts of stuff so I would recommend getting those.

I appreciate that. I think I'm most uncertain about the wheel bearings.

Thankfully, rust wont be an issue. However the parts will go back on cleaner than ever


I'm checking out the HF 3 Puller now

MStudt 02-07-2020 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmyrecluse (Post 3438502)
I appreciate that. I think I'm most uncertain about the wheel bearings.

Thankfully, rust wont be an issue. However the parts will go back on cleaner than ever


I'm checking out the HF 3 Puller now

Rust isn't an issue for the front wheel bearings, and location doesn't matter. These are a press fit part, and removing them without a press is pretty difficult. Everything else you listed is very straight forward, and pretty easy to do on your own.

Mike

jimmyrecluse 02-07-2020 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MStudt (Post 3438518)
Rust isn't an issue for the front wheel bearings, and location doesn't matter. These are a press fit part, and removing them without a press is pretty difficult. Everything else you listed is very straight forward, and pretty easy to do on your own.

Mike

I mean getting the hub off and up to the point of pressing out the bearing.

It's the one part that im uncertain about. Worst case, ill take the hubs to a shop

Good to hear the rest is straight forward

RandyBobandy 02-07-2020 04:35 PM

if you do all the control arm, ball joints, and CV work at the same time you will have the steering knuckle off, then just take it to a shop and have them swap the bearings. the knuckle isn't hard to remove

MStudt 02-07-2020 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmyrecluse (Post 3438527)
I mean getting the hub off and up to the point of pressing out the bearing.

It's the one part that im uncertain about. Worst case, ill take the hubs to a shop

Good to hear the rest is straight forward

Just remember to loosen the CV nut with the wheel on the ground, and then pull everything about. I would take your entire spindle to the, and have them do all the press work. That would be much easier, and a better use of your time if you don't have a press.

Mike

Makitso 02-07-2020 08:20 PM

Before you put the supercharger on, run your gas tank down low and fill it
with premium 91 or 93 the highest you can find. Then drive it easy for the
first tank of gas while the computer learns to compensate for the lean mix.

mtbtim 02-07-2020 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmyrecluse (Post 3438475)
Yup, I've checked them out, I just wish they were trimmed down a little. You show some great tips when something doesn't go straight forwards but it's like going to the movies! I wish I could get the 20 minute cuts. I like the notes you include with helpful tools

Right now Im making a list of tools and socket sizes. Doing this with tools I have and Autozone loaners for the specialty stuff - tie rod puller, bushing press, bearing press.

Well, that's our style. We make very detailed videos that a total beginner can be successful following. If we aimed our videos at experienced professional mechanics or experienced DIY mechanics, we would be leaving a whole lot of people behind. The information is all there in the videos we have for the jobs you want to do but maybe you can find some videos with trimmed down versions. But, when you get stuck and want more detail, you know where to go.

Doc2012 02-08-2020 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmyrecluse (Post 3438527)
I mean getting the hub off and up to the point of pressing out the bearing.



It's the one part that im uncertain about. Worst case, ill take the hubs to a shop



Good to hear the rest is straight forward



You can’t take the hub off without a press.

And if you press the hub out, you might as well replace your bearing, because you’re going to destroy it.

The bearing is pressed into the spindle; a big ‘C’ clip is installed over the bearing; and the hub is then pressed into the bearing.

The 4Runner is NOT like the Tacoma; you HAVE TO RUN THE OUTTER STUB OF THE CV AXLE.

That CV nut is torqued down to (IIRC) almost 200 ft lbs, and KEEPS THE BEARING TOGETHER.

The manual hub Tacoma swap has a large nut of the back of the threaded hub that holds everything together.


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