Kirks build thread
Purchased for $3500 it came to me with 209K mi, manual transmission, 4.88 gears with spartan lockers front and rear, 285/75r16s mounted on 80 series aluminum 5 spoke rims, shaved upper control arms, 1” BL, Toytec coilovers, OME rear coils, Outdoor Logic front bumper, and OL boat sliders made to have UHMWPE mounted on them. It had STI seats, CB radio/megaphone, shorty antenna, and a Kicker audio system. Some of that was done by a previous owner who had a thread on it here. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ld-thread.html I believe that there was more than one owner between us though.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6584d28c_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5b392171_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f14bc2e5_w.jpg Gears had been grenaded and I couldn’t drive it when I bought it but the intent was to help me and a friend out at the same time with it. He had a 97 that he wanted to manual swap and I needed something that I was willing to drive on long road trips with my wife. She doesn’t like manual transmission and needed to drive occasionally when she was feeling carsick. Her chevy cruze wasn’t going to cut it. Sorry, I still feel the need to justify to myself why I made it an automatic. We began the swap and I finished it up in about a week. A lot was traded during this to get mine roadworthy asap. He got the wheels, the 1” BL, the seats, the MT and the center console since mine had the newer one with cupholders and I was putting a Marlin doubler in his at the same time. Needed the space for the extra shifter. I went to 265/75-16s on steelies, 4.30 gears open front, scion tc seats, and his AT. For those looking into the AT/MT swap, even though this was 97 to 97, the entire wiring harness for engine, transmission, and behind the dash had to be swapped with the ECUs. The cruise control assembly also had to be swapped. This one is the one everything was swapped with. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b58c7128_w.jpg Once on the road discovered that on engine decel I had sever rod knock. Based on looking at the caps for the main bearings I realized that the engine had been run dry at some point and needed to be rebuilt. So I had it rebuilt by a local shop that several race friends had faith in. When I installed the AT I immediately installed an external cooler, an auxiliary transmission filter, and a transmission temp gauge. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...28aaefb7_w.jpg Painted the bumpers black with rattle can rustoleum bedliner spray because I have had many good experiences touching it up on another off-road project. Installed an e-locker using my own wiring with a 15A DPDT relay mounted under the center console. this is what it became for a while. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1608dfd9_w.jpg since then: Kill switch Total chaos upper control arms Spindle gusset 13 WL tundra brake upgrade King IFP front shocks Braided brake lines Heimed tie rods made from 1.125”-0.219” wall DOM with double shear lower ball joint steering arm https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...63c04aaa_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3cd2df14_w.jpg 100W halogen KC daylighters Piaa fog lights Winch https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...329e63d8_w.jpg F350 mult bulb rear dome light Rocklights installed in rear hatch for working out of the back https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ca39e880_w.jpg Subaru compass/altimeter/outside temp sensor Fabricated 1/2” extended lower control arms and converted from bushing to 1” uniballs on the inner mount https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5cfdbe5c_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2cccd333_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c70df479_w.jpg M14 wheel lugs https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d109b12a_w.jpg 76 chevy blazer brake master cylinder https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bfb2a068_w.jpg Scs f5 wheels with 3.5” BS 305/70/R16s eimKeith rear bumper https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...785dc637_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...67b7d979_w.jpg |
LOTS of good stuff here! Details on the sphericals in the LCA pivots? The heimed steering?
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Great thread lots of amazing upgrades looking forward to more. Can you put more info on the Subaru compass upgrade
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Dagum there's a lot to unpack in this thread already. Great work
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Yeah, for the steering I was able to get my hands on the steering clevises from camburg a bit early. They’re set up for a 3/4” heim. The tie rod itself is 1.125x0.219 tubing so it has a 11/16” id and is ideal for running a 3/4-16 tap down. I’ve done it on several things in the past, including my panhard bar. On the ball joint ear I drilled the taper out to 5/8”, added the double shear tab, wrapped the backside to shield it from the rotor, and shanked the bolt to land the shoulder in the heavy part of the ball joint. The tie rods are tapped left and right hand thread for adjustment but it means that one revolution is 1/8” on the tie rod length so alignment is actually a bit of a pain in the ass. I don’t do more than a 1/4 turn at a time. Also the clevis fits inside the factory steering boot so the rack is still sealed up. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c315c81a_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3d12a340_w.jpg On the LCA I was in the process of extending a set for that other 4Runner because every 4Runner I had been around with TC uppers and any lift had trouble getting negative or even 0° camber. That set I did by shifting the forged end out further in the boxed arm but as I was digging into them I realized that the factory adjustment cams have a 19mm od and there is a multitude of misalignment spacers with 3/4 id available for 1” sphericals. I mocked up the cups with weld slugs spaced correctly with dom tubing in the jig and cut off the outer half of the factory bushing hole. Welded the cups in place and then wrapped them from the top of the arm around the cup to the bottom of the arm with 3/16 (overkill). while I was at it I welded an extra plate on the bottom of the arm. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...24e3dcd3_w.jpg The jig actually used a factory taper ball for the ball joint end to maintain the angle and position was maintained because as it turns out the flats on either side of the arm end fit directly inside 2x2x3/16 square tubing which allowed me to cut the bushing sleeves without loosing position. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7a1a0ffc_w.jpg I do all this in a dirt driveway and the garage is full of crap thats not mine so things get rusty around here quick. |
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as I went out to take some pictures for eimKeith I spotted a few other things done that I had not mentioned.
EimKeith lower arm gussets, but only on one side currently because I haven't wanted to drop the tank since I daily it. Although now that the aux tank is running I can do that and still drive it; so soon enough. Don't judge those welds too much that welder was an old miller 110 that was on its death bed and has since been replaced by a multimatic 220 AC/DC. But I will concede that they are a combination of welder and welder. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cd0225fb_w.jpg Used a cut piece of abs wiring from the junk yard to extend the ABS sensor wires into the cab which allows me to turn off ABS on the fly by interrupting the one sensor circuit. However it must key cycle to reset the ABS computer. it can be simply unplugged and the original plugs stuck together to bypass. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bacee590_w.jpg modified the rear wiper to be able to use a standard wiper found at any autoparts store https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5f84c4a7_w.jpg re worked the end of my winch cable because I didn't trust the aluminum crimps on the end. Its now woven into a flemish eye and wrapped with stainless tie wire. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...86088f6b_w.jpg better comparison picture of the replacement studs. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7b7af260_w.jpg better picture of the f350 dome light. Center bulb works with the hatch and the reading lamps are switched for digging though the tool bags. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...88e71a12_w.jpg for anybody interested I'm also using the Blue Driver bluetooth OBDII reader. thoroughly happy with its capability. I haven't found anything I'm missing from my old $300 Actron scanner. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...907b1fce_w.jpg and last but certainly not least, the 3d printed cup/phone holder. Its from a guy who turns out to live in the same little mountain town I do. there is multiple options available too. 3rd Gen 4Runner Double CupHolder 96-02 – BH3D Printing His picture because my truck is currently a mess inside. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...80444642_w.jpg |
Made some progress on the swing gate today. Not 100% sure that my idea of how to lock it in position is going to work the way I want it to, maybe 80%, but I'm pushing forward with it anyway. The idea is to drill down the DOM tube into the center shear tab, have a spring loaded 3/8" rod inside, and run it across the backside of the gate to the driver/latch side so it can be released from the same position as the latch. I also plan to have it have a detent in the closed position as a backup to the latch and have an idea to have another possible backup on the latch side if it works the way I picture it.
I haven't decided on a latch design for the drivers side. Ive seen 4x4innovations and the Garvin quick clamp. Does anybody else have any ideas or suggestions? https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5f04ef53_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...afa60f44_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...13b30cd6_w.jpg |
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Could you share about the custom Chevy brake cylinder swap, thanks!! |
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The second write up has a handy chart of what worked and what didn't as well as some calculations. So I looked up replacement pistons for the tundra brakes, calculated the surface area they have, and solved backwards to find the best possible diameter master shooting for the 5.5-8.0 ratio in the writeup. I came up with 1-1/16' master. There was one available from Toyota but only briefly on a vehicle available in the Canadian market and would have required a swap to a 4 bolt booster. The chevy master is two bolt so I only had to oval out the holes with my die grinder. Setting the plunger depth was a bit of work but not terrible and the front and rear lines are opposite on the chevy. In case it didn't work I made my own adapter lines to go from the 9/16" and 1/2" flare on the chevy master to the M10 flare Toyota factory lines. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9b4fb783_w.jpg I did lose the low fluid indicator light but I check fluids pretty regularly anyway. I can now lock all 4 tires up with abs off. |
Received the 4xinnovations latch for the swing gate and between the heavy rains I was able to make some progress on the other end of the gate. I modified the latch to move it around the back of the truck and keep it as tucked in as possible. Added some HDPE between the plates and drilled oath pivot to use a bronze bushing so I can fully tighten it. I had to integrate the pin into the bumper a little to keep the gate parallel and tight against the hatch. My goal was to keep the outside corners simple and not susceptible to damage locking things up.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c6ce1217_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f2816895_w.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0eb7aef2_w.jpg Also managed to get my hands on some 2.5 reservoirs for the front shocks. I've gotta ditch the IFP. its just too easy for the pressure to get on the wrong side and make them scary to service. Time to get out the modified spring compressors and don a face shield and diaper. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e271522d_w.jpg |
essentially non essential
Lots of free time but still getting paid has given me the opportunity to make some more progress on the gate.
Spare tire and hi-lift mounted. For mockup I used my 5' hi-lift off my other trail rig and ordered the 4' that can be seen in the finished photo. I would have loved to keep the 5' on there but it stuck up too high. Needed to go back on the other rack anyway. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0a669762_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...af5c615e_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...07f6a3ea_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...85517c5a_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...60fb4056_z.jpg Made a lock that doesn't rattle for the spare and also manages to act as a lock box interestingly enough. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fb448e1d_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6e18039e_z.jpg I was also able to pull the IFP out of my front shocks, change the valving a little and mount the reservoirs. Working puckered the whole time. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...50cb2bf9_z.jpg some nice arc in those screws. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...575e4663_z.jpg |
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