Secondary Air Injection Valve Stuck
 

"Secondary Air Injection Valve Stuck Closed Bank1" permanent OBD2 scan code on my 2013 at 32,000 miles. What gives? Do I need new valve ($200) or is it the signal only and electronic issue? The wiring connector to this valve looks good. Bank 1 is Passenger side, right? Injection pump itself is running because i can hear it while turning engine off. Any ideas what and why something failed so soon? At this rate of failure I'd go trough these expansive air pump parts faster than I'm replacing some regular maintenance fluids or filters. Puzzled. Any thoughts on this?

There is a SAIS delete kit. I don't know much about it.

GenII Secondary Air Injection System Bypass Kit

The foam filter inside them fails and gets sucked into the impeller blades and ruins the pump.There is a mod where you open it up take out the foam and put a uni filter on it instead.

I agree that could have been the culprit, but I do not think that is the problem in case of OP, as according his post (#54) in this thread (Secondary Air Pump Mod Validity ) he had installed Uni Filter on the Air pump couple of years ago… unless OEM foam filter was not removed at that point…?

Foam filter was removed at the time. Tundras having these things fail due to moisture corroding valve mechanism. Mine sits in the garage 80% of time. It seem that I got bad part or good part but random code pointing to this part. Im replacing this tomorrow. Since this OBD-2 code is permanent and unclearable by scan tool does it go away on its own once bad part is replaced?

Good info about the moisture problem, hadn't heard that one yet.
As far as I know permanent codes take time to clear even after the replacement, however, 4 hours disconnected from the battery should clear it too.

I think Tacoma guys are getting these covered under federal 80k mile emissions warranty.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

Update on this:

I picked up new valve and two air tube gaskets $180, install was easy 20 min job with half of that time removing and reinstalling air intake tubing and connections. Old valve was rough and rusty looking inside (see pic). Idle for 5-10 min after install and drive for another 10 all runs fine. Code is self cleared after that. All is well now.

To summarize Bank 1 is passenger side and Bank 2 is driver side?
Also did anyone used any guidance on how to replace the valve or just common sense and logic?
I see P2443 which is Bank 2 closed (4R 2017 TRD OR)

Thank you all , this was the most helpful thread/source of information after two days of surfing through google.

1-Correct, Bank1=Passenger, Bank2=Driver side
2-Use repair manual found online or Techinfo official site
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...ite&_nfpb=true

This not a difficult job for Bank2 but have to remove few things that in the way there to get to the valve. Give yourself couple hours. I did replace only faulty valve instead of both even though I was tempted. It was more about money and time; if you have plenty of both replace Bank1 and Bank2 valves.

I used my remote start to let my 4runner warm up a bit since temps here are in the single digits right now. I get in and see the CEL and Trac Off lights lit up. It drives just fine during my 10 minute drive home. I plugged in my scan tool and it pulls the P2443 code. I let it sit for a while and started it again and see the lights still on the dash so I disconnected the positive terminal and cleared it that way. I drove it a for a bit after that and it seemed fine. Now I've been digging through old threads from seemingly every Toyota truck forum and I'm trying to decide if all I need to do is slap on a $15 filter and call it a day or if I'm stuck dumping a bunch of money into this by taking it to the dealer. I'm currently at 84,000 miles and I only have the CPO powertrain warranty still going for me so I'm sure I'll be footing the bill.

What's the problem? You worry abt it, just disassemble valve and check it's condition. Buy a filter, $15 spent better that $200. Not sure how water gets inside in OP. Codes you have, probably transmission switch, easy to check, disconnect, check wires for corrosion.

My scanner says that the valve is stuck closed. I bought the filter so I'll put that on when it shows up. I'm hoping that the code doesn't reappear but it sounds like it likely will, based on what others have experienced. I'm just hoping I don't get the additional codes along with it that put it in limp mode. I might have to wait for it to warm up a bit before I disassemble the valve because my garage isn't heated and it's too cold to spend more than 5 minutes working in it.

The wear and failure on the air valve is more of a function of time, not mileage.

Shake the valve and listen for any rattle inside. I had the valve plate break in one.