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Adding hardwired automatic LED light inside center console
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Added a hardwired light inside my center console storage box. It is hardwired by accessory power and it is turned on and off with a tilt switch. The light will turn on when the key is in the accessory position and the console lid is in the open position. Here is a quick write up if anyone is interested.
I bought the 11mm flush mount bulb from Oznium, no lens. LED Bolt Flush Mount Lights | Bright + 12 Volt | Oznium LEDs I used this but ordered from Amazon (Canada) https://www.ebay.ca/i/321717417881?c...yABEgJ6aPD_BwE But you should be able to use any type of tilt switch you prefer. |
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Pull back towards the rear at these 2 points. No screws just pull to release.
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Remove 6 screws to detach the lid from the console. Careful not to drop anything down the vent...ask me how I know SMH!
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Remove 4 screws and 2 screws holding the lock latch in place. Tissue box holder pops right off - just tug from bottom.
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Use pry tool to remove the inside cover from the lid at these 2 points
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Here's what it looks like with the inside cover removed. I am pointing to the space where I mounted the tilt switch. I mounted the tilt switch at a 45 degree downward angle as opposed to flat. I realized that the driving motion will close and open the circuit intermittently even when the lid was closed. Having it at a 45 degree angle reduces unwanted ON/OFF of the LED by the motions of stop/go driving. Mounted it to the outer side of the slot mentioned. (red is the double sided tape)
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Drill hole for flush mount LED bolt. Take your time here! Your hole needs to be dead center or you will have to re-drill more holes if necessary. The LED bolt needs to fit exactly between the 2 screw mounts for the other part of the console lid. There are also tabs on the other side that the LED bolt may hit. What I did was play around where the bolt would go (on the backside) and traced and marked accordingly. If you are dead center you will clear the screw mounts. But you need to play around with the north/south distancing.
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How I ran my wires.
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Testing that my wiring is right before installing in the truck
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Had to dremel out some space between these 2 screw mounts. The LED bolt fits right between when the inner cover is in place.
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I cut off the connector from one of the 12V sockets of the rear passenger vent panel and spliced in my wires from the LED/switch. Green wire from existing harness should give you 12V. (you may want to circuit test to make sure. may be different depending on trim level). If you don't have these sockets you may be able to tap wires from the center console or run wires to the fuse box.
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EDIT! See Post #20 - you don't have to drill this out. I re-ran the wires after the fact that won't require modifying this panel.
Drilled out a hole for the wires. Connect newly spliced on connector onto existing factory harness/connector that feeds the 12V sockets. You can now put everything back together and your light should be good to go! |
Great write up. This is a pretty cool, useful mod.
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Judging from the insulated Phillips screw driver in the photo you appear to be an electrician. Nice clean job and write up.
What model 4Runner do you have. Because mine doesn't have outlets in the console. |
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I have an SR5 PREM 2015. |
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