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5th gen T4Rs
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https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/)
| gearguywb |
03-24-2020 07:33 AM |
Rear12 volt outlet question
I have pretty much finished my storage drawers and plan on putting the fridge back there.
Originally planned to run a hot wire to the back and installing a Blue Sea panel. I would like to have a cover for the opening above the rear wheel well and mount the panel there, but I can fin anything that covers that opening.
Another option may be to convert the current 12v outlet in the rear to permanent power.
Has anyone done that? Thoughts?
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| adrtoy |
03-24-2020 07:37 AM |
That's what I did.
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| jhguth |
03-24-2020 09:07 AM |
The rear 12V outlet gets enough voltage drop that some fridges don't work well there, so if a fridge is your plan you'll want a dedicated outlet instead of making the existing one full time.
there have been users here that have made custom panels to fill in that area, but i don't know of off the shelf products
i just installed my dedicated 12v outlet beside the existing one
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I installed a Blue sea switched 12volt outlet and usb ports on the PS fender well in the cargo area.
Rather than post it all here, Just go into my ALBUM PAGE I wrote the whole process up for others to reference .
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| flyrv9 |
03-24-2020 02:10 PM |
Also, all the A/C outlets (at least in the 2013) have no power when the truck is turned off. That's why people are wiring a separate outlet to a circuit that's always hot - and possibly an aux battery setup.
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| jp.vegas |
03-24-2020 03:31 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rack
(Post 3462281)
I installed a Blue sea switched 12volt outlet and usb ports on the PS fender well in the cargo area.
Rather than post it all here, Just go into my ALBUM PAGE I wrote the whole process up for others to reference .
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Did the tray over the wheel go back in? I've read that they're easy to damage when attempting to pull them out and the mounting tabs are typically busted.
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| PK930 |
03-24-2020 03:57 PM |
Not sure what fridge you'll be using, but the one I have would not stay on with the stock wiring ('12 SR5) -- voltage drop was probably too high. This is with the truck left running for a couple hours to test it out.
So I got a Blue Sea panel with 12v outlet, dual USB charging ports, voltage meter, and switch to turn the panel off. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the under hood Blue Sea fuse box all the way back. All wiring at the panel is also 10ga which is tight but doable. There's also a 30a breaker before the panel.
I'll be switching the 12v for Anderson connectors soon as I don't like how the play is on the cigarette lighter style.
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| jp.vegas |
03-24-2020 05:01 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by PK930
(Post 3462327)
Not sure what fridge you'll be using, but the one I have would not stay on with the stock wiring ('12 SR5) -- voltage drop was probably too high. This is with the truck left running for a couple hours to test it out.
So I got a Blue Sea panel with 12v outlet, dual USB charging ports, voltage meter, and switch to turn the panel off. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the under hood Blue Sea fuse box all the way back. All wiring at the panel is also 10ga which is tight but doable. There's also a 30a breaker before the panel.
I'll be switching the 12v for Anderson connectors soon as I don't like how the play is on the cigarette lighter style.
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Take a look at "powerlet" or "Hella" style plugs and outlets. I've been using them for more than 10 years for a mechanically secure connection for my fridge.
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| MyanRagahis |
03-24-2020 07:41 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrv9
(Post 3462303)
Also, all the A/C outlets (at least in the 2013) have no power when the truck is turned off. That's why people are wiring a separate outlet to a circuit that's always hot - and possibly an aux battery setup.
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Exactly why I added mine. Better for me to charge camera stuff when sleeping on trips than to try and load up on a bunch of powerbanks or something. I did think about getting something like a small goal zero or something similar but this will do fine.
https://i.imgur.com/0jnGwRFl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QptUQpVl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2zjWbdyl.jpg
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| benhalleniii |
03-24-2020 10:31 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by gearguywb
(Post 3462177)
I have pretty much finished my storage drawers and plan on putting the fridge back there.
Originally planned to run a hot wire to the back and installing a Blue Sea panel. I would like to have a cover for the opening above the rear wheel well and mount the panel there, but I can fin anything that covers that opening.
Another option may be to convert the current 12v outlet in the rear to permanent power.
Has anyone done that? Thoughts?
|
Try this: Blue Sea/ OGE Auxiliary Power Outlet System with Voltmeter – Off-Grid Engineering
b
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n
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by PK930
(Post 3462327)
Not sure what fridge you'll be using, but the one I have would not stay on with the stock wiring ('12 SR5) -- voltage drop was probably too high. This is with the truck left running for a couple hours to test it out.
So I got a Blue Sea panel with 12v outlet, dual USB charging ports, voltage meter, and switch to turn the panel off. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the under hood Blue Sea fuse box all the way back. All wiring at the panel is also 10ga which is tight but doable. There's also a 30a breaker before the panel.
I'll be switching the 12v for Anderson connectors soon as I don't like how the play is on the cigarette lighter style.
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I too like Anderson connectors but I don't want to be restricted if I need to plug in somewhere else that typically doesn't have them.
If you use the Blue Sea plugs with the Blue Sea outlets they lock in very securely.
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| gearguywb |
03-25-2020 07:07 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by benhalleniii
(Post 3462484)
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That is exactly what I have.
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| gearguywb |
03-25-2020 07:08 AM |
I did not want to mount it on the DS (if I could help it) as my fridge will be mounted on the PS.
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| gearguywb |
03-25-2020 07:16 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rack
(Post 3462281)
I installed a Blue sea switched 12volt outlet and usb ports on the PS fender well in the cargo area.
Rather than post it all here, Just go into my ALBUM PAGE I wrote the whole process up for others to reference .
|
Thank you!!!
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jp.vegas
(Post 3462322)
Did the tray over the wheel go back in? I've read that they're easy to damage when attempting to pull them out and the mounting tabs are typically busted.
|
The tray on the PS can be removed without breaking the screw tabs. Use a flexible screwdriver adapter lift the tray just high enough to guide the Phillips tip flexible head to the screws once your on the screw it break loose in a couple of turns. You can see in the photos in my album I used a plastic pudy knife and pry up on the tray. The tray will go back in but I would not try to reinstall the screws because you will occasionally need to get back in. use some Velcro.
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