Fumoto, Valvomax - nope - plastic plumbing tube instead
 

So, I've been considering either the Valvomax or Fumoto now that I'm approaching my first change after installing the Shrockworks skid.

The skid has about a 33mm hole to access the plug.

1. Valvomax: the hex nut is 24mm and so is the diameter of the cap. There's no way you can fit fingers in there to use it. Also, the drain cap is even wider than this.

2. Fumoto: Still waiting for dimensions from the company but I doubt I can install it without dropping the skid. That would be a choir I'd like to avoid! Even so, the reviews of leaks are worrisome. I know, I know...I've read plenty of testimonials here that they don't leak. OK, understood. Lastly, it seems pretty tight in there to flip the switch with my fingers.

So, what's a worried, cheap guy to do?

Use a standard plastic 1.25" sink drain tube! Loosen the plug first, slip the tube into the skid hole and finish unthreading the plug with a socket and extension. Remove the socket, hold the tube in place until the main gush of oil passes. Then wait a while or just remove it and let the rest of the oil drip through the hole.

To get crazy: see the lip on the tube? Cut the tube to length so the lip fits just UNDER the skid. Glue some magnets around the lip so they hold onto the skid. There, you don't even need to hold the tube while it's draining!

Going to give it a try but am confident it will work. It's cheap, clean and I never have to worry about anything.

That sounds like a great solution. Be sure to take some photos to document this for others to follow. :thumb:

I still have 1K to go before the next oil change and the 90-degree plus weather has not put me in a mood to get under the truck to do anything. I'll wait until it's cooler for this and the transfer case oil change.

But, it's a very simple solution and it will work. It fits through the skid hole perfectly. Just cut it to size and crazy glue a couple magnets above the lip; that's optional if you want both hands free.

A socket wrench and entension easily fits through it.

It's as simple as it gets. What's doubtful about that?!

Nice. Solid idead.

Also a word of advice you don't want any of those special drain valves if you offroad. One good smack of the skid and you can end up puncturing your oil pan with the valve. Stick to a normal drain bolt as it gives you the most clearance to the skid.

Huh, I hadn't thought of that scenario. It's worth considering.

Anyway, I originally bought the Valvomax as I like the design. The OP is correct in that the access hole in my RCI skids isn't large enough to install and operate. I have the Fumoto, and for what it's worth, I have no problem reaching in to operate the valve.

Hmmm... what would be really cool is a tube like this with an integral socket-like device so you could loosen the drain bolt with your wrench, snug the tube up to it, twist the tube to totally loosen the bolt, bolt drops down into a catching device within the tube like a strainer, oil drains through the tube into a pan or jug, and no hot oil on your hand, your hands stay completely clean. Gotta make sure the bolt doesn’t block the oil so it drains quickly and not back up.
Any 3-D printing inventors out there?

You are overthinking this ! :)

This cost me nothing as I already had the tube and I scavenged magnets from an old hard drive. Oh, I did have to buy some Crazy Glue.

Slip it on, it sticks to the bottom of the skid, slip your socket extension up there and let the bolt drop into the catch pan. Tada!

Stop wasting your money on bling! No offense to those who have, of course. :)

And I would say the same for asphalt-driven 2WD. There are 2/12mm bolts holding the small plate under the 14mm drain bolt. Never understood why people are too lazy to simply remove/reinstall this plate and keep what Toyota gave you to begin with.

I still have the stock skids, and I use that plate every time. It's why I installed my Fumoto valve... I wouldn't want one out in the open, and that plate protects it. As to the comment above about being off road and hitting the valve with the skid? Doubtful. That would take some really good precision hitting to do, and if you're going to hit it hard enough to do damage you're either way in over your head or don't care at all about your vehicle.
I just finished a very challenging trail with tons of obstacles. I've got hits on the front skid, the fuel tank skid, but not one single scratch under the engine. Both front and rear bumpers are marked up and my cheap NFab Predator steps are history, but nothing at all on the engine skid. So I'd say that would be very rare to damage a valve.

The only problem I have with my Fumoto valve is the time it takes to drain through the smaller hole. I'll put up with that.

They came out with a larger valve body version to speed things up.

Amazon.com: F133S with LC-10 S-Series Large Body FUMOTO Valve with Short Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for 12mm-1.25: Automotive

Here's another option...I recently installed a Stahlbus drain valve and they offer an extension tool to use to open and drain from their valve. I have Bud Built skids so there's enough room for my hands.

Awesome!! That's a purchase! :first:

What to do if the sewage pipe is cracked?

I would fully agree with a OEM skid - if you're running aftermarket the concern (at least for me is much less).

I'm running a fumoto valve and RSG skid plate. I've taken some hard rock smashes on it with zero damage (powdercoat, but is that really damage?).

There is a risk to it like most things, but for me it's worth it (30K/year, multiple oil changes).

Big Stahlbus fan. I on my rig with RCI skids. Top notch.