2nd Gen interior electrical gremlins
 

Hi Everyone,

So I just inherited a 2nd gen 1992 3.slow 4x4 for the purposes of pissing of the wife (god forbid I should spend time sleeping on the concrete staring at the bottom of the motor instead of with her). It was previously owned by a friend of a friend who is 18 and can barely spell his name, much less keep a vehicle in descent shape.

The exterior, believe it or not, is in great shape. Barely a scratch on the damn thing. Only real dent I can find is the driver side bumper was barely pushed in. Pulled it out with my hand and its basically fixed.

Inside however.... yikes. There is literally a door panel missing, door motor is half gone, and no switches.

This is all fine, I have most of that. I used to own a 92 pickup 3.slo 4x4 so I have a bunch of misc crap from that build.

Splice in that and I now have 3 of 4 working door windows. All door locks now work. So far I'm only into it for a bad switch on the passenger rear side and previously pulled apart (WTF WHY?) door motor & missing switch on the driver side.


This leads me to my main problem, which I will try to explain as best I can and all the troubleshooting I've done... this is about the pass side front window...

initially wouldn't go down or up.
-bad battery
-also fixed driver rear door and pass rear door (although it needed a new motor because it was struggling to get the window up)

swapped battery
-now only goes up.

have (new) motor from rear door - same issue
- pull connectors out of rear door motor and swap polarity
- motor now only goes down
- swap connector polarity again and motor now only goes up


Now i'm desperate. Motor is obviously good on front door. New switch is good. So I splice in rear passenger door to front passenger door. Same exact results.

I compare front connector to rear connector, verify the 2 pins in front match and the 3 pins in the rear match. All is good.

So now I need to know. What am I missing. I understand how the motor and polarity is working with the windows. I understand that they are holding negative until the switch initializes the up or down polarity on the motor.




Has anybody had this happen to them? I'm down to one window. I've checked all I can. I've even checked the wiring harness all the way back to the driver side switch and there is no fouling or shorting.


I'm out of ideas.

I would love some help from you wizards!





I can create a photo account to submit photos where possible. I'm just not proficient with that so just let me know what the best option is.

Have you checked the wires at the door hinge? They tend to snap there because of opening and closing the door all the time.

https://i.postimg.cc/VLDzNW16/P1014593.jpg

this.

Got a chance to ply around with this a little more. I pulled the harness from the connector on the inside passenger kick panel. Traced it from connector all the way to inside the door and up to door locks. Harness is pristine all the way through.

Tried something on the pass door switch: i took a pair of needle nose pliers and jumped the “down” pins on the switch. No juice. I then held down on the connector and jumped the down pins and it works! Release the needle nose and the window won’t go down anymore.

Is this a grounding issue that I’m missing?

How many miles on the engine

have you tried a new switch?

when you traced the harness did you unwrap it?
i thought mine was pristine too and found that after 25 years a couple of wires were crimped. sliced and soldered them back together.

Replaced with new switch from autozone. Same issue. I traced the harness back to the plug inside the cab above the pass kick panel. Everything looks kosher as far as I can see. It has to be a grounding issue that I'm missing.

Intermittent issues can usually be traced to a loose/poor ground fault, or as stated above poor contacts due to broken wires or excessive resistance. Do you have access to a wiring diagram? I can try and find one on Mitchell if you'd like. Access to a DVOM multimeter? Volt drops are your friend in these scenarios. As long as the fault is preset when you're testing, it's a breeze