Window lock stuck after battery change...please read.
Hey there guys. Before you leap to conclusions and send me links to resetting automatic window close settings or 'normalizing' the windows after a battery change, please read the post first. Thanks. I've searched the forum for my specific issues but haven't found a solution.
So, changed the starting battery in my 2017 TRD Off Road. Lost automatic window opening/closing on the rear gate window, driver's side window and sunroof. All reset now and working well. What is NOT working is that I now cannot operate any windows other than the driver's side front window from the driver's door controls. However, each window is working if you try to open it from the switch on it's door. So, if I want to open the passenger front window, I can do so from the front passenger door, but not from the driver's door control. Effectively, I cannot open any window other than front driver's side window from the front driver's side controls. Any suggestions? Could this be a fuse? Thanks in advance! b e n |
Toyota 4Runner: System Description - Power Window Control System - Service Manual
Doesn’t answer your question, but info that might help |
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No, Fuses are a yes or no thing - Either you've blown a fuse or not. Quote:
Just checking - but the problem you describe is the exact symptoms of windows that need to be normalized. |
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Did you manage to resolve this as iam having the exact same problem with my front passenger window. |
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Each window must be rolled all the way down and all the way back up using its individual switch, once this is done each window should work from the driver side master switch.
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Don’t you just love it when the OP never responds back to answer the original issue solutions?!?!!??!?!!
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Kinda weird, today my battery seemed to fail. I didn't leave the lights on or anything, just had the a/c fan running with the motor off.
AAA jumped it, after which the front passenger (only) window would not work via the driver side controls. It works with it's own switch and the other windows also work with the driver controls. I'm going to try that protocol mentioned above, is that it as far as the "normalizing" ? Also strangely the clock went back 4 hours somewhere along the way, well that is easy enough to fix. So it sounds like this is a known and not uncommon thing. ? |
My guess is its time to replace the battery.
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Also ordered the GM diode doo-jobby. I'm going to look at this again after I put in the new battery tomorrow. In other news, the front passenger window no longer works even with its own switch . . . |
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Update on my window situation: front passenger window started working again on its own, only from its own switch though. So I did the normalizing thing, this time I held the button for a good long 1-2-3 both up and down and it works normally again, yay ! Gonna put the new battery in this afternoon. |
Update - put the new battery in yesterday afternoon and for whatever reason all the windows have continued working normally . . .
:cheers: |
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Here are the specs for both batteries in case anyone is interested. Note the difference in "reserve capacity minutes" 135 minutes for the 34R vs. 160 minutes for the 24F. Spec for 34R: Specifications Voltage 12 Pulse (5 second) Hot Cranking Amps (PHCA) 1500 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) 850 HCA 1250 MCA 1050 20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah) 68 10Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah) 62 Reserve Capacity Minutes 135 Spec for 24F: Voltage 12 Pulse (5 second) Hot Cranking Amps (PHCA) 1500 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) 840 HCA 1200 MCA 1000 20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah) 76 10Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah) 73 Reserve Capacity Minutes 160 |
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