5th gen 4runner trail skid plate question
 

hi guys

did my first oil change n the 4runner this week.

skid plate is a lot of fun.

question on reinstallation. the bolt holes dont seem to line up to the fastening holes very well.

for me to line up the skid plate bolt holes with the fastening holes, i need to "push the skid plate" forward ..

i tried manuvering the skids plate hooks in a variety of ways, but results was always the same and required me to "push" the skid plate forward (towards the forward bumper) to get the holes to align.

normal or is it me?

if its me..whats the method to set the skid plate so the holes of the skid plate, line up better with the fastening holes on the frame?

please

Some help please?

I have only done one oil change so far and that’s how I did it. Seems it didn’t line up perfectly but meh it’s holding 2k miles later with no issues and some off reading as well.

I never had an issue with it.

Which skid plate do you have?
Is it black thin metal or off white heavy aluminum with big red TRD letters on it?

Either way watch this video and make sure you are using the right holes to bolt the skid plate into.

2018 Toyota 4runner Skid Plate Install - YouTube

Copying a previous post of mine:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3329263-post93.html

Here are the holes you should be using for the TRD skid plate.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attac...read-bolts-jpg

hey guys, thanks for the replies...

i have 2016 trail , the skid plate is the black steel skid plate

by the time i got the skid plate reinstallation, it was late and whereas i knew i had 1 stripped skid plate bolt when i started the oil change.

trying to reinstall the skid plate, i realized i have 3 stripped skid plate bolts (i didn't do it.. the trail was serviced by the dealer for prior oil changes).

update:

later that evening, pulled out the irwin tap and die set (bought last year,, never used)

a few quick how to videos on tap and dies and the stripped skid plate bolts were fixed... ran the bolts through my thread checker and they thread perfectly into the m8 1.25 thread checker (love the thread checker board).

used the m8 1.25 die with cutting oil and these bolts are perfect now.

highly recommend the irwin tap and die set.. very high quality...

since then i cleaned the skid plate completely with purple degreaser cleaner to clean up all the oil that the dealer service spilled from prior oil changes onto the skid plate.

the skid plate is stupid clean now.

ordered A4 aka 316 stainless steel hex head m8, 20mm x 1.25 mm full thread hex bolts and m8 oversized A4 stainless steel grade washers.

on deck for today:

plan on running a m8 x 1.25mm die through the skid plate installation holes to clean up the threads. im sure they are gummed up a bit ..hopefully do not need to be rethreaded to a larger size.

then ill reattempt the reinstall the skid plate to coomplete the process.

ill post an update after completion with results and how the new replacement stainles steel hardware performs.

process completed and figured out this whole skid plate hardware mess, gummed up install threads and how to sequentially fasten the skid plate bolts to ensure the skid plate is fully seated to the fastening cross members.

i started a new posts with dimensions/ specs with caliper measurement pics and specs on replacement Stainless Steel hardware, whcih worked perfectly and the how to process of fastening the skid plate bolts

thread is " skid plate hardware figured out..."

i can now "handthread" the SS bolts and washers to a fully seated position to the fastening cross members ...perfect

thanks.. hopefully the new post will help other owners which are encountering the same headaches.

You really ought to replace it with a more substantial one if going off road.

Thanks man..no current plans for offroading type of adventures, other than dirt roads if the roadtrip requires.

This is just me, and my opinion.

But every Toyota truck or SUV that I've ever owned, I've replaced the Skid-Plates. Mainly because the OEM headlights suck, and the amount of road-jerky, buckets, ladders, grills, wheels, and general undercarriage bombs that I've come across going 70mph on the highway and have hit because either no way to move or it just comes upon you quick is astonishing.

The OEM skid-plate wouldn't have protected anything, and honestly, the one that I have is an investment that has saved my investments countless times.

thanks man..its something to consider in the future.

regardless of future replaements.. figuring out the current OEM skid plate was gonna get figured..

its just the way things get done in the garage

just like replacing the spark plugs on a 6 cylinder camry ..what a pia.. remove a list full of stuff right down to the intake manifold to access the rear bank of spark plugs.

id probably replace the nfab step bars and skid plate a few years down the line (who knows maybe sooner).

now that i figured out the OEM skid plate and cleaned all the threads into the cross members with a die and replaced all with stainless steel hardware, the skid plate is just a few more minutes when i need to perform oil /fluid changes.

new step rails or whatever i replace is called would probably be first on the list.

need new side rails that allow me to fully access the roof when washing and detailing the 4R..

i like the looks of the nfab step bars, but the limited stepped surface has me using a 3 step ladder to access the roof when washing/ detailing..

btw.. after wrestling with the OEM skid plate, i came to the conclusion that the skid plate holes being slightly off the install threads, may actually be a clever design.

given the lateral pressure that is applied given the holes are off center, this completely seats the skid plate when the bolts are fully seated, keeping the skid plate stupid tight which also prevents any rattling/ noises ...

im leaning more to this conclusion that the skid plate was designed to be slightly off center from the threads, to keep the OEM skid plate, and hooks tightly seated when installed.