skid plate hardware figured out-specs and lots of pics
8 Attachment(s)
hey guys, this is a detailed look into the skid plate bolts AND WASHERS for the 5th Gen 4runner.
the process and results detailed below:
including caliper measurements, specs on replacement stainless steel bolts and washers and how to sequentially fasten skid plate hardware to fully seat your skid plate, when the skid plate bolts do not fully align with the fastening holes on the cross members. whereas i have read a lot of posts about the skid plates and folks whom have replaced bolts.. what about actual specs.. pictures AND why no focus on the WASHERS..? its all below with caliper measurements, spec and plenty of pics.
Attachment 370011
after tapping the bolts, i second guessed reinstalling these bolts and washers. so.... naturally the calipers are taking out to obtain actual correct dimensions so i can order replacement 316 aka A4 stainless steel bolts AND WASHERS. actual dimension specs of OEM Skid Plate Bolts:
but the actual viable thread length is close to just shy of 20mm. the starting thread pattern of the OEM bolt is slimmer and of "self tapping" thinner profile than the rest of the thread. Attachment 370014 so that the hex head bolt.. so we can buy M8 x 1.25 x 20mm replacement bolts. what i have not read many posts include are the WASHER specs and replacing the washers. the OEM Washer for the skid plate bolts are oversized and for a good reason. the fastening holes on the skid plate are fairly large relative to the hex head bolt size and bolt head.. standard washers are not going to fill this job. lets check on what the specs are of the OEM Washers and try to find a suitable placement in stainless steel. we know the washer will be M8 size, but what about the width?
and the WASHER thickness?
i find washers to be extremely important when considering fastening hardware, and given the OEM Washers are oversized @ close to 22mm OD width, i figured that flange head hex bolts are too narrow. m8 standard washers are too narrow (these tend to be 15-16mm OD width). so i purchased/ installed:
here are 2 of the replacement SS Bolts and Washers installed.
Attachment 370018 Attachment 370019 but before installing the new SS hardware, we are going to need to run a die through the fastening holes on the install cross members, to clean up the gummed up threads. used a M8 x 1.25mm Irwin Die and Oatey Cutting Oil and there was a fair amount of mess that came out of EACH hole. Attachment 370020 after running the die through each thread, the new SS bolts threaded in by hand, smooth as silk. absolutely, NO jamming or tight threads. moving onto sequential order of how to install Skid Plate hardware when your skid plate fastening holes do not correctly align with the installation threads on the cross members.
using the correct sockets size with 1/4" socket wrench fasten all bolts to a tight fit (basically, once the bolt stops, i only tightened by about 1/16" of a turn), in the same order as the preceding sequency.. ensuring that you are pushing the skid plate bolt so the fastening holes are aligned and the skid plate is fully seated to the cross members. so with all that done, moving onto the plastic cover. when i tested the bolts and 5 fastening holes for the plastic front cover, the threading of the OEM bolts was tight. time to take out the irwin tap and die set again.... placed the OEM bolts in the thread checker and these 5 bolts are M6 x 1.0mm
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thanks man.. hopefully it helped.
to add a thought here, about the skid plate. it makes sense that the skid plate would have slightly offset holes, so when the skid plate is fully seated, the lateral pressure of having offset fastening holes will "lock" the skid plate in place, reducing risk of rattling/noise. this skid plate hardware was a headache, where i was pleased to be able figure it out and move onto the next mess to figure out. |
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