Squirrely Dan - 2000 SR5 4wd Build/Resto thread
 

Squirrely Dan is the 2000 SR5 4wd 4runner I purchased in Cedar City UT in May of this year (2020) for $4000 with 245,000 miles.

It was in good shape, with a new radiator, timing belt and water pump. I tool it on a low speed test drive and everything checked out. A/C Worked, but was weak, only one key, no fob, power antenna was sticking up, broken. Interior was super clean, but worn. No major stains or anything.

Fluids all checked out, no rotten frame. one of the rear drums was warped.

Day I bought it.

https://i.gyazo.com/fe7399f75a48bb4c...f77cb32bef.jpg

I was happy with the purchase. Until I got on the highway.

This is how Squirrely Dan got his name, as soon as I got to about 50, the 4runner was all over the road. It did not want to track straight, everytime someone passed me the suspension got upset and the truck veered all over the place.

It was terrifying, as soon as I got home, I called a nearby mechanic and dropped it off. They called back and said I needed:

Front Brakes
All 4 lower control arm bushings
Front sway bar end links
swaybar bushings
Remove 'loud' muffler and replace with quieter one
Alignment

I think there were a few other things, but out the door it cost me $2200 to get it fixed. I couldve probably gone back to the guy, got into an argument, tried to get my money back, but I didnt. I probably shouldve. But this 4runner is very similar to the one my dad had when we lived in south america. So it oddly had sentimental value.

I paid for the repairs. When I got Squirrely Dan back he drove ok! No more crazy wandering.

Next problem: Interior lights dont come on when I open the driver's door. This was quickly tracked down to a broken door switch. I ordered one, and a pair of keyfobs.

That weekend we went offroading.

https://i.gyazo.com/853bdc3f5ff682a9...e3e3f66ddd.jpg

This is where I realized the suspension was shot. The shocks weren't working and the springs had sagged so much my rear upper control arm would hit the exhaust on small bumps.

Not a big deal, as I was planning on doing Bilstein 4600s anyway.

Fast forward a week and the keyfob and switch arrived. Door switch was easy. But try as I might the keyfob refused to work. After many attempts I gave up and did research for 2 days.

I discovered the wiring harness to the hatch was damaged. Some soldering work and bam, keyfob works!

About this time the truck threw a check engine light. Pulled the code, it was a lean condition. I was getting significant pinging on hard acceleration too. The truck had a crap cold air intake with an unknown brand air filter.

https://i.gyazo.com/37b266f0898cf007...21ef3750e7.jpg

When I dissasemble the air intake I saw our famous Utah silty dust in the air intake. Replaced the MAF, cleaned the air intake, new K&N air filter and she was running fine.

The brakes were still warped, ended up putting 2 new drums on the rear (shoes were good), problem solved. ~$100 in parts

Took it to JiffyLube for an oil change that same week. They used a hard copper washer, and lazy lubetech and I had an oil slick on my drive way. I guess somehow they managed to pool oil on the skid plate and when I got home it all leaked onto the driveway.

Never again JiffyLube. They accused the 4runner's leaky valve covers for the huge oil puddle. After some talking I got a refund and they put another hard copper washer on it.

It still leaked.

I had a friend at work tell me about a mechanic in St George who maintained a fleet of Land Cruisers for a local outfitter/guide service in the area. I took the truck to him.

He fixed:
dripping oil plug with a soft aluminum crush washer
steering rack bushings
secured 02 sensor wiring

If I remember right all this (Included inspection of whole truck) was $200ish.

Truck ran well for a bit, went off roading again a few times, got another check engine light. The cold air intake had to go. I did some searching and found an airbox in Las Vegas out of a wrecked sport edition. $120 and it was at my door.

They didnt include the rubber hose from the silencer to the throttle body, but did include a toyota OEM maf that works perfectly. So $10 from amazon for the hose and boom problem solved. Check engine light is a thing of the past.

Saved up my pennies and ordered a set of new front and rear springs, and Bilstein 4600s, OEM ball joints with bots, and rear sway bar end links, he also changed the fluid in the front and rear diff and transfer case. $1025 after tax.

On the drive home the truck made a horrible clunking noise.

https://i.gyazo.com/e5096763aa466525...f6b4ad02b5.jpg

Turns out the guy who did the work forgot the lower bushings when reassembling the shocks. I talked to the mechanic, he apologized profusely, I took the truck back and he redid the work for free, and tossed in new bushings. Guy has never let me down before, and is highly rated, everyone has an off day. Im ok with it. He made it right, and I will continue to use him.

I picked up the truck yesterday, and this morning dropped it off at another shop to get an alignment done - $90.

I have also left a deposit with a local upholstery shop to rebuild and recover the driver and passenger front seats. $850 when its all done. They wont look exactly stock, but should be close enough that it doesn't matter.


I have around $8000 in this truck right now. Probably too much. But, eh. I dont have plans on selling it. and if I get another 100k out of it, ill be happy.


Future work:
Valve cover gaskets - $550
Rear bumper - $200ish (Replace dented chrome parts)
Rear wiper motor - ~$170
Clean and re paint frame and rear axle - $???
Clean up paint scratches and chips - $???
TRD Pro Bronze wheels and 265/70r17 tires - $1800 (Big want, but I'm having trouble convincing myself to pay so much just for wheels and tires)
Roof rack- $??? DONE - 01/12/2021 - Gift from In-laws!
LED Spots/light bar- $???

https://i.gyazo.com/61e2f160e1f132da...4122a0bbd6.jpg

Have I spent too much on this old truck? Its not even that special. Just an SR5, no rear locker or anything.

Whatever. I keep telling myself I just gave this truck a new lease on life. Even if I got rid of it the next owner has another 100k miles of worry free ownership.

As long as it's not rusted, hasn't had a past pink milkshake, and doesn't have other serious issues, I think you're doing fine. The way I look at it is, first, what else would you rather have for your $8k? Also, being realistic, any used car at $8k is going to require maintenance too.

These things are old and starting to show it. The days where you find them as daily drivers having almost no maintenance are starting to end. I've put money into mine too and considered a 4th gen. But I knew what mine is and figured better to go with the devil I do know. Values for clean 3rd gens have seemingly started to rise. Not a super compelling reason to make any decision but knowing it can help the mental exercise.

So I got a call on Dec 29 that all the materials were in and I can drop my 4runner off to get the seats redone.

2 days later its done!

https://i.imgur.com/NRTFFbb.jpg

Better look at the pattern.

https://i.imgur.com/BMJWYpN.jpg

It's not OEM, but is close enough!

These seats are way more comfortable now! They fixed the seat pan and put in new foam! I love them!

Awesome seat fabric, that’s a great look. It’s a bit reminiscent of the “sport” seats the 01-02s got

Looks great. Nice seats.

That interior looks great. I need to get my front seats done here shortly. If you want, you certainly don't have to but if you start wrenching on your truck not only will you save a bunch but will feel a sense of accomplishment.

Recently I have noticed a burning oil smell, and I also have a slight oil leak under the truck that sometimes drips on the driveway, it sort of looks like its coming from the bell housing? I need to put it on a lift and take off the skid plate and figure it out.

https://i.gyazo.com/e226ca6941e39f44...93711f3b45.jpg

My bottom is moist.


ANYWAY, I drove the 4runner from St George UT to my in-law's in Idyllwild CA, it was 6.5 hour drive. Truck did well, got around 20mpg. While there my father-in-law gave me his old load master rack since he had no use for it. So the 4runner has a new hat!

https://i.gyazo.com/e34c7249fead23df...3db4ff311b.jpg

I drove back home on Monday, we decided to go through Amboy CA. Some great views of the desert going that way.

New seats were comfortable, and the 4runner did it without complaint, now it's just a hair shy of 252,000 miles.

Could be the valve covers dripping all the way down depending on how bad they are leaking.. Not sure if it’s in your wheel house but you should look into getting some tools and doing some of this stuff yourself (Timmy the toolman videos on YouTube help a ton) because the valve covers could probably get done for about 100$ with oem toyota parts.

im loving this so far! subscribed

Sounds like you are doing a great job getting this thing baselined! One thing to note, before buying a new rear wiper motor, its common these to have the wiring between the body and the rear hatch to become damaged over time. Pop open the grommet and inspect it before buying that motor- you may get "lucky" and just have to solder a few wires together.

You are correct.

The hatch did have many frayed wires, I have soldered them all and fixed it. My problem is the metal stud that holds the wiper was broken off. So the wiper can't attach to the motor. I'm fairly sure I have to replace the whole motor since the stud isn't replaceable.

I have a wiper motor for sale right now.. 10$ + shipping and it’s yours, let me know.

3rd gen 4runner parts/misc|SF bay area

Love this. Looking at a 2000 myself, and it's in way worse shape. Gives me an idea what to expect. Not scared off yet, but I'll have it checked by a mechanic to make sure the frame is not rotted out. That's my main concern with the salt here in Ontario.

I was out and about driving the 4runner at work today, lots of short trips, during one of them the check engine light popped on.

When I got home i ran my OBDII scanner and got a P0420 OBD-II Trouble Code: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) fault.

I have no drivability issues or 'rotten egg' smell.

I cleared the code, and will continue to drive it and see if it comes back. If it does I'll probably throw a pair of o2 sensors on it.


Also T4topher ill take that motor, sent you a PM.

So it's been a crazy month. I did this repair in Feb, I just havent had the chance to post it.



So when I got my 4runner it didnt have a rear wiper. I wanted to have it because the truck looked wierd with a black stud on the door with no wiper.

https://i.gyazo.com/f088eeedc97430a9...62378122d2.jpg

I bought a used wiper motor from T4topher up above (Thanks again!) and went about removing the old one.

https://i.gyazo.com/3ee976c65688f77a...92fab84460.jpg

How I did it:

1- Remove rear plastic cover (Held in with plasic snaps and 1 bolt at the pull strap)

2- Remove both metal access panels

3- Lower rear window until you can see all the bolts that hold the rear glass to the mechanism, and remove them all. The window should now slide freely.


Here I ran into a problem. Two of the bolts were rusty and broke out of the 'plastic' molding they were in.

4- Slide the window all the way back to the 'up position' with you hand.

5- Remove the 4 bolts that hold the motor and mechanism to the door.

6- Remove the 4 bolts holding the wiper motor in place and undo electrical connectors.

https://i.gyazo.com/3ab87fae14850e4c...afc3bfdd8d.jpg


Taadaaa!

You can see the problem here. My old motors threaded section was gone. It is likely they tried to remove the wiper blade and broke it.

https://i.gyazo.com/6a04f49d19f88ec6...f4906fd386.jpg


Now my problem. This nut was rusted to the bracket that attaches it to the motor. I had to cut it off.

https://i.gyazo.com/0224e015c6403f0a...83e10b9395.jpg

https://i.gyazo.com/c6368902d9c4e7bb...eae6cf786a.jpg

I went to the auto parts store and bought some bolts and nuts with lock washers I used them through the holes where the rusted bolts were. It was good enough.

Then I reassembled everything!

https://i.gyazo.com/45f81fc33a622d6f...d02dacf19f.png

Success! I have a stud!

https://i.gyazo.com/879ff5350b873370...988c53a65e.jpg

I ordered the parts from a toyota dealer, and boom! Wiper arm!

:party:


I also had ordered the 3d printed cup holder from BH3D Printing (Not sponsored :sobbing: )

Went from this broken gross thing:

https://i.gyazo.com/e60e9cb16d1fb590...2c109ae8db.jpg

To this!

https://i.gyazo.com/d256185735eeab6b...a6e645074d.jpg



So far so good. I think my next project is gonna be that dinged up rear bumper!

Looking good- I am enjoying reading this. Similar to my own. I picked up a 97 with a locker about 3 weeks ago. It has 285k miles- new head, new tming and WP. Needed tires, rear axle seals, tie rod, alignment, muffler. Got it for 4k and will be in for 8 before you know it, but its awesome. I like it more than my old 4th gen 4runner and 2nd gen tacoma already! Keep it up!

So its been a while since I've updated.

The 4runner now has a warm garage to sleep in, It's no longer daily driven. I have a Sienna and a Corolla for that.

I used the 4runner when it snows hard, or I feel like taking it out. Ive barely put 1000 or so miles on it in all this time.

However we just got some snow here in SW Utah, so I decide its a good excuse to bring it out, and lo and behold it's leaking coolant. It's not a small leak, it's a constant big drip coming from the rear of the engine.

So it's off to the mechanic for a look. I will probably also pay to have the valve covers done, and the P/S fluid changed out since the steering is pretty stiff.

OH WELL.

https://i.gyazo.com/3d1e3d4fd70573c4...39c264a017.png

Its been nearly a whole year since I've posted!

Squirrely Dan has just over 800 miles added to it since this last post. He spends most of his time sleeping in my garage, unless there is some nasty snow.

Work done this year:

- Fixed that Coolant leak
- Valve Cover gaskets
- Oil Change (258,415 miles)
- 2 headlight bulbs

During the oil change the engine was steam cleaned to get all the 258k miles worth of oil grime off.

Other than that, it's been a pretty quiet year!

Would love to see some before and after pictures if you have them. But being able to only put 800 miles on that thing for an entire year is insane. At this rate I suspect you'll have it for maaaaaany more years to come. Have you done a timing belt/water pump job on it yet?

Yes, the radiator, timing belt, and water pump were done at around 240k miles.

I do hope to keep this thing for a long time, which is why I am willing to spend more than I should (if you follow financial wisdom rules) to maintain it.

My next few repairs will probably be the rear bumper, power antenna, and replace the rear seat with one out of a 2001, because those have the LATCH system for car seats.

I dont have any recent pictures, ill get some once the weather lightens up.

Current picture.

I need to have it detailed once winter is over.

Flushed and replaced the power steering fluid. It was dark and gross, plus the steering was stiff when it was really cold outside. Also washed the 4runner! 258,742 miles

Its supposed to get cold and snow on Tuesday, ill see if it makes a diff.


To do the flush i went to harbor freight and bought the Pittsburg Suction Gun. Its on clearance for $8! The entire contents of the power steering reservoir can be sucked out in seconds with it! Well worth it!

Replacing the fluid is only half the battle. There’s a screen in the reservoir that gets gunked up and can restrict flow to the pump. I’d highly recommend removing the reservoir (you can leave the pump on the engine) and cleaning the screen.

Yep! Cleaned the screen too! Lots of crud in there!

Using that suction gun got a lot of it out too. But I think my steering rack will need replaced in a year or two. I am just trying to buy me some more time. I will probably just do the rack, pump, and all the lines.

You can run t3 or t2 fluid in your power steering rack as well. Folks say it's slightly thicker then synthetic atf newer dexron fluid. Maybe that will slow the leak down until you get that repaired. :)

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

It isnt leaking, the steering is just heavy.

Today I replaced the lift supports on my 4runner's tailgate.

I ordered the aftermarket Strongarm replacements. They went in fairly easily, but I lost one of the e clips, so I had to run to Napa to get a new one.

The aftermarket supports are def thinner than the KYB stockers. We will see where they are in a year or two.

But right now they have no problem holding up the tailgate! :tea:

hmm.. OK. :-)

Looks like you went with the heavy duty ones. These things are great man. I just installed a set in December and I love them. They are phenomenal. The hatch pops right up with just a little pull. I have to stand back from it just to make sure I don't knock my own teeth out.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

I know it sounds strange, but even after the fluid change it feels like its got two flat tires when I try to turn the wheel. Unless the pump isn't working at all?

It sometimes takes a long time to get all the air out of a flushed power steering system. Maybe you are still dealing with that or low fluid issue. :)

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

During some of the cold nights (below 20f) the 4runner has no brakes. The pedal is hard and the truck wont stop.

But usually pulling the parking brake or pumping the brakes restores full breaking. Feels like a vacuum issue. With a bit of research I saw people having a problem similar to mine that was fixed by replacing the brake booster vacuum valve. So that's what I did!

Current miles: 259153

New valve on the left.

A sad day.

https://i.gyazo.com/9841796ebbc27e18...69ab89b6f2.jpg

Today my 4runner let me down. It started fine this morning, drove me to where I needed to go, but when I came out a few hours later, it wouldnt start.

Sounds like its not getting spark? I can smell gas when I crank it.

Oh well. It's being towed to the mechanic.

I went out to check on it since the tow was taking way long, and it started! I first tried at 9am, then at 1pm it started and ran fine.

I drove it to the mechanic, he is going to drive it for a few days and see how it behaves. But when he checked it today he wasn't able to find any codes, weird fuel pressures issue, or anything else.

:shrug:

Mechanic was able to reproduce the issue, it was infact the fuel pump!

OEM parts ordered.


This feels appropriate:

https://i.gyazo.com/3d1e3d4fd70573c4...39c264a017.png

Glad you got it figured out, I was thinking it was the fuel pump also, but held my tongue in case I was wrong.

Nice meme though!