Dual air/e-locker wiring help
 

Hello all,

I know I am not too active on this forum; however, I figured this is going to be the best place to go to get some input...

Backstory
I am throwing dual ARB air lockers (ARB RD90 + RD132) on my 2000 SR5 & going to 4.56s (Yukon front, G2 rear). I am a stickler for OEM parts/switches/etc.

This led me to the idea of using an 80 series e-locker switch for the front/rear lockers. I plan on deleting my cigarette lighter plug and retrofitting the switch to fit in that hole so it is non-obtrusive. I have seen someone w/ a 100 series use an 80 series switch to run his dual air lockers, so I know it can be done...

What I want to do/need help figuring out
What I am looking to do is have my RR Locker light engage when I turn on the locker. I know my air lockers come with harnesses, but they wouldn't run the same way the e-locker harness (see link for diagram) runs. What I'm asking here is: what additional wires do I need to purchase from Toyota to make this work?

Moreover, are there any diagrams around for running dual air lockers solely off of the 80 Series locker switch? The switch itself is a 3-prong switch. As seen in the video included above, it can be done. I just can't figure it out since I am somewhere between novice/intermediate with wiring.

TLDR
What do I need to do to make an 80 series switch solely run both air lockers in a 3rd gen while also turning on the RR Locker light in the dash???

Thx in advance!

Also, I am active on IG @Griffin4Runner if you want to watch this build in real-time

I have no answers for your switch but I can tell you to check and see if your diffs are not part of the recall with the bad seal and to bench test them regardless. My front was not in the recall yet had a bad bond seal and had to be pulled out and refitted with the new seal. They also sent the wring harness with the dual activation compressor which led to a ton of frustration.
It shouldn't be hard to figure out, one one/off to your compressor thru a pressure switch, then an on/off to each solenoid.

maybe a little help
 

I have this setup right now.

<a href="https://imgur.com/E832EvC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/E832EvCl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

you can see the switches are not the correctly labeled because I have broken like 3x of these switches. I hate them, they suck and seem to break with the slightest bump.

so I figured I would also maybe do the 80 switch swap...

I have only made it so far...

<a href="https://imgur.com/DrQ8wlE"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/DrQ8wlEl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

hmmm this might have an option?
<a href="https://imgur.com/XbrAN1I"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/XbrAN1Il.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

it's going to be tight
<a href="https://imgur.com/lIN0XQS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/lIN0XQSl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

took a couple of tries but... I did get something to work
<a href="https://imgur.com/xrTVfep"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/xrTVfepl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/5wkW248"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/5wkW248l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/okBA5Hh"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/okBA5Hhl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/8NHUwDe"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8NHUwDel.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

as far as the wire part goes... I think when I tested the switch it's just a normal continuity based switch so... you will just have to run the mini ARB compressor and Solenoids off the switch or a relay. I think just the switch should work it seems plenty beefy.

of course there is one downfall from this setup but it's a remote problem but it is still a problem. You can't just run the front locker alone. With the ARB OEM setup you can just run the compressor and the front locker. the 80 series switch will require you to run the rear locker ( compressor also on this leg ) and then you can use the front.

now realistically are you ever going to want to just run the front locker? don't know?

The switch harness appears to be a 3 pin switch. Pretty basic. Constant 12v, power to accessory, and ground. However I don't see how that harness works for 3 accessories ( compressor and 2 lockers) unless the unused slots on the harness can be wired up. Either way my opinion is the air compressor and rear locker should be wired to the first spot and then wire the front locker to the far spot. This way one turn activates air compressor and rear locker. Turn further and front is added into the mix. I would not run the front locker on an ifs setup with out the rear locker engaged...good way to wreck the front diff.

Just my 2cents

exactly what I was going to do. first position turns compressor on and rear lock, then next position turns front lock on.

The existing ARB setup lets you run the front without the rear. I have a hard time understanding why running the front without the rear would cause any damage outright? When your using your lockers, things are about to get real and it tends to be a hold my beer situation... and breakage is more likely?

I have read forums where 80's owners have re-wired their lockers so they can get the front only setup. so I just mention it but it's not going to stop me.

Running front only on a solid axle rig is more acceptable as the axles are stronger. Our front diff can handle the torque put out by the locker. It's our CVs that are the weak link. You ever see a front locked IFS try to maneuver? It's painful. In a straight line an IFS setup is fine. But we don't need lockers in a straight line situation. We are going over obstacles and turning the wheel back and forth to get traction. That torque from gears and now locker with increased CV angles from flex and droop leave you wide open to breakage. This will likely result in damaged CVs but can result in damage gears in the diff itself.

This is why we approach with our rear locked and flip the front on and off as needed. I keep mine off any time I'm steering side to side on mud or slick rock. It is only a last ditch effort. Not to mention when you use the front and rear you have a controlled crawl effect which will minimize chances of damage to your CVs. With a front only lock you don't get that same control. In fact this is why you see a lot of IFS rigs run a locked rear and a LSD upfront. An LSD minimizes constant torque on the CV. It essentially is locking and unlocking the front for you at the right time.

The downside to a LSD is it's never "off" meaning it'll still resist steering on normal trail where you don't need it which can again damage CVs. This is where a selectable like ARB comes in.

You keep it off till you absolutely need it. And know to turn it on and off when in use depending on your scenario.

Again I'd rather get through and obstacle with my rear only. I only turn the front on if my front needs added traction. Once I've gained said traction the front is off again.

I also always carry a trail spare CV.

And I do like the look of the OEM switch you folks are usi n

Again this is just my 2 cents.

I have the ARB CKSA12 air activation compressor kit and am pretty sure that it says in the manual that the rear has to be turned on before you can activate the front. I just got it hooked up and haven't tried it yet.

If u want OEM, and to maintain the 4runner stock look, why not run ur ARB's through stock switches and add an on/off for compressor.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8ee12ab5c3.png


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The picture I posted above is the factory LC 80 & 100 series front and rear locking switch. The picture shows he’s using the switch for front and rear ARB lockers and he is using another OEM switch for the compressor.


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