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5th gen T4Rs
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https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/)
| NYRunner |
06-10-2021 08:27 PM |
Help! My backseat left side window stopped working from either switch
A few weeks ago my back left window stopped working. I sprayed a little contact cleaner in both switches (drivers door and back left door switches) and it started working again. Well it stopped again today and this time the spray didn’t help...
Has anyone else encountered this or have any idea what to check before heading to the dealer? I can’t imagine and don’t want to know what they’d charge, especially if it’s something I can do myself
Thanks!
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| flyrv9 |
06-10-2021 11:18 PM |
I would gain access to the window motor, disconnect the connector and check for 12v when you operate each of the switches. If you have voltage at the connector then the motor is suspect. If you don't have voltage there, then one of the switches could be bad. I'm assuming you already checked the fuse (or fuses) involved first. I would also check that the connector to the motor was on all the way.
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| Relentlesskaizen |
06-11-2021 05:59 AM |
Good advice! Also if the op is comfortable checking voltage I would maybe take it a step further provided voltage is present and jumper the window motor to a 12v source and operate the window.
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| NYRunner |
06-11-2021 06:38 AM |
Sounds like a good idea. Off to Home Depot to get a voltage meter and then I’ll take the door panel off and check it out
Thanks guys! I’ll report back
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| NYRunner |
06-11-2021 08:59 AM |
Ok so I have the multimeter and the door panel off but I have no idea what I’m looking at here...
Where do I start and which wires am I checking???
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| Relentlesskaizen |
06-11-2021 01:41 PM |
So there should be 12 volts present at the positive wire which may be white that should be present at all times at the regulator if not check the fuse and wiring from. Other wise pull the window switch out, back probe the black, and light blue wire at the switch when it is depress voltage should be present. There is a pink wire while back probing depress for full auto voltage should be present. There will also be a white with black trace wire. That is your ground on both the switch and regulator. At no point should voltage be on that wire. These are basic checks as I am suspect of the switch at the door being that the master works for the other windows.
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| 1jzgte |
06-11-2021 01:46 PM |
did you have kids or passengers that would use that back window a lot? just curious. I always have to tell my kids to stop messing w/ the window switches because they cant just keep it up or down for more than 2 seconds
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| NYRunner |
06-11-2021 02:57 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1jzgte
(Post 3646190)
did you have kids or passengers that would use that back window a lot? just curious. I always have to tell my kids to stop messing w/ the window switches because they cant just keep it up or down for more than 2 seconds
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No, I’ve rarely had anyone in my backseat and barely open those windows.
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| NYRunner |
06-11-2021 02:58 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Relentlesskaizen
(Post 3646187)
So there should be 12 volts present at the positive wire which may be white that should be present at all times at the regulator if not check the fuse and wiring from. Other wise pull the window switch out, back probe the black, and light blue wire at the switch when it is depress voltage should be present. There is a pink wire while back probing depress for full auto voltage should be present. There will also be a white with black trace wire. That is your ground on both the switch and regulator. At no point should voltage be on that wire. These are basic checks as I am suspect of the switch at the door being that the master works for the other windows.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Many thanks! That’s where I’ll start then
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