Eibach Pro-Truck Lift Install Advice
 

Hey all,

Just purchased the Eibach Pro-Truck lift kit for my 2006 SR5 4WD.
PRO-TRUCK LIFT SYSTEM (Stage 1) - TOYOTA 4Runner Base

Wanted to check with others to see what additional work/parts I may want to perform/replace while I'm at it. Truck is a weekend driver, used mostly on paved and gravel/forest service roads - some occasional harder trails but I wouldn't call it wheeling.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Replace the top hats on the struts while you are at it. Also, on the front make sure you remove the wheel speed sensor wire mount from the top of the UCA so you don't stretch it out.

Worst part is attaching/removing the top hats and struts. The bolts up there have very little clearance. You will have to use an open wrench and take your time. If you live somewhere with rust it could get interesting.

Biggest piece of advice is don't use a spring compressor on the front struts. Just attach the strut to the LCA, and then lift it into place. The strut tower contains the spring, and it keeps you from having all the fun times associated with a spring compressor.

Thanks! It also appears I have a torn CV boot - and for who knows how long. I'm not noticing any issues with the CV though... is this something I can just clean/repack and put a repair boot on or?

Depends on how far gone the CV is but it's not abnormal to cause a leak on older CVs when lifting/changing the axle angles. So I'd do the lift and see if the other side goes then look at replacing/rebooting both.

Toyota sells a reboot kit, I'd look at this if you have OEM CVs in good condition. Also plenty of aftermarket options.

And good advice on replacing the top hats while you're at it, the worst part is getting them to separate once you have the bolts out. A cold chisel on the seam finally did it for me.

Mine will be here next week. Paid extra to have the struts assembled.

Currently when I hit a pot hole the front seems loose. Could it just be the completely shot xreas or should I replace other components too?

If you don't know how long its been torn, there is a good chance its shot. Main thing you want to see is if there is grease still on the joints under the boot. If there is you *may* be O.K. Also see if the CV joints are OEM.

If you need to replace, I'd strongly recommend sticking with OEM or CVJ reman. NAPA used to be solid, but now they are a bit of a crapshoot.

If the joint is not OEM, and/or damaged, then it will start binding when you lift the car at full droop.

Jack up the front end of the car, and try to shake the wheels. If they are loose it is not just the XREAS. Could definitely be LCA/UCA bushings.

Will this mount kit do the trick?
Amazon.com: KYB SM5640 - Mount Kit: Automotive

Yup, that's what I used

I just wanted to thank Gimli and Wiley for this discussion. By coincidence, I am in almost the exact same situation, and will be having the Eibach kit installed in my newly acquired 2008 V6 Sport next week. So all of this information is invaluable.

Mine only has 91K miles, but the X-REAS is still 13 years old and feeling a little squishy, and I want a moderate lift/level anyway. Usage will be 90% pavement / 10% moderate off-roading. (I'm in snow country.)

I also have a torn LF CV boot and it looks wet on the other. Because I have no service history at all, I don't know if it has been torn for 1000 miles or for 30,000 so I will be replacing both axles while everything is apart. It had a bad LF bearing when I got it, and I also plan to replace the RF hub assembly, as well.

So maybe I will re-phrase Wiley's question: is there anything else under there we should be replacing in hopes of avoiding any repairs for the next 100K? Gimli mentioned the top hats, which I hadn't thought of. Is that due to corrosion?

The shop will be changing the sway bar bushings, but I'm wondering if I should consider other things like the sway bar links or even the control arms just due to the age of the rubber parts? I'm in the northeast, and fortunately rust is not a serious issue on mine, but that is in the picture. (Fluid Film is planned after the suspension work.)

Thanks to everyone for any advice.

I did this setup a month ago. Just that I used T1/T12 instead of eibach coils. I also did a diff drop just in case. My CV looks nice and straight now with my 2.25-2.5"(after settle) lift in front on my 07 v6 4x4.

And yeah, be careful of front ABS line if you are planning to unbolt the UCA ball joint during install and careful about rear brake line while stretching the rear axle during the rear coil install.

Just an update after the Eibach kit was installed.

1. Love it. Looks great, rides great. Nice option for replacing an old or failing X-REAS system.

2. Great price on the components via tire Rack. Even better if you subscribe to freeshipping.com .

3. Still rubs a bit with 265/70R-17 on full right reverse lock, but I'll heat/reshape the fender liner shortly.

Before and after: