2nd gen runner brake bleeding walkthrough?
 

Has anyone found a good walkthrough for bleeding the brakes on our 2nd gen T4r’s?

I’m about to do the rear bearings and axle seals and it requires pulling the rear lines off the wheel cylinders.

I just want to make sure I do it right. I’m not clear if I need to bleed all four brakes? It also sounds like there’s maybe a 5th place to bleed on the brake lines above the rear differential.

There’s a lot of good videos and I’ve got some good tips on general guidelines for bleeding brakes, but neither the downloadable FSM or the Haynes manual gives anymore description than to start from the longest line from the master cylinder and work your way to the shortest.

Excluding the bleeder that maybe above the rear differential that would go.

Rear Passenger
Rear Driver
Front Passenger
Front Driver

I’d love to skip doing the front if I don’t need to. It had a brake job a couple years back before I got it so I dunno if it really needs a full flush and that means I don’t have to take the front wheels off. That being said if the correct way to do it is to do all four brakes then that’s what I’ll do.

I’m going to do it manually with a little bottle rig up I made. 3/16 clear tubing. Through a drilled out hole in top of small gatorade bottle. Tubing is zip tied under the cap so it can’t pull out and so I can hang the bottle if needed. There’s also a small air hole to allow release of pressure build up.

If I have a hand I’ll have them do the pedal for me. If not I’ll do it myself.

Hoping there’s a good walkthrough or video out there somewhere that shows our trucks specifically ;)

Thanks in advance!

Bearings should be here tomorrow!

Whoohoo! No more clunkity clunk and no more mess all over my wheel!

don't forget to bleed the LSPV

Care and Bleeding of Your Brake System

Found this page while searching the link to rear wheel bearing replacement one member sent me on my other post ;)

Bleed from farest away from the brakebooseter im enginebay. Example. RL- RR - then the LSPV- RF - LF. I did this some times, and brakes are good now. Make sure to bleed the LSPV good as well. check if the piston is not stuck also. You can manualy check this to screw off the 2 M8 bolts on the bracket on the panhard bar. and push it up and down manually.

i did this as well,. i strugle with some leakage on the nipple at first so i bleed all the 4 wheels several times. it pass the brake test with good result today as well.

Good luck.

Sent fra min WAS-LX1 via Tapatalk

So everything went well, I followed the guide in the link I posted above and started Driver Rear, Passenger Rear, LSPV, Passenger Front, Driver Front, and everything ran clear. I can tell you it was about as funky as brake fluid can get, Kauai red dirt or rust hard to tell, but chunky and funky. Cleared out the lines and topped up with fresh Dot3

I used the one person method with bleed bottle made from a medium sized water bottle. One hole in cap to fit snug clear tubing in 3/16 i.d. and one small hole for venting in the cap. A zip tie on the inside of the cap holds the tubing from pulling out.

Old fittings can leak a little air around the threads so it's good to either pack around with some grease or just barely crack them.

Glad it's another couple years before need to do again!