Request feedback on cheap amazon and eBay front skid plates
 

I recently bought a '16 Trail. It is currently mostly stock with the exception of a small lift kit (maybe 1.5"?). It has evidence of aftermarket equipment having been installed and removed as is evident by small things missing on the front end, mainly 6 of the 8 bolts that mount the front bumper extensions the frame.

I noted that the front skid plate looked crooked and hung lower on the driver's side. Taking a closer look, the front driver's side mounting bolt was missing and the rear bolt head was sheered off. In addition, the front passenger side bolt is not OEM and was loose and the rear passenger side bolt had a 1/2" spacer between the bead and the skid plate. I've determined that it is also not OEM. One of the smaller bolts for the plastic air damn was missing and two were sheered off as well. When I removed the skid plate a larger spacer fell out from somewhere. It looks like it could be a diff drop spacer by the size of it and seeing pictures on the internet. I was able to remove all the broken off bolts easily which was a surprise as I expected them to be crossthreaded and the reason they sheered but the plate bolts were all boogered up like the plate has been rubbing on them. They are longer than OEM bolts anyway so everything need to be replced.

Nothing above the skid plate looks damaged and the plate itself is not all banged up. The underside of the whole thing looks to be in good shape minus a dent in the fuel tank skid plate.

I'm looking for some options for how to proceed. I know I can easily source new OEM bolts for the skid plate and the air damn but that's not fun. I have seen some decently priced aluminum skid plates on Amazon and eBay that would be a nice looking replacement but would like some feedback on fitment. I'm not looking for a bullet-proof, trail rated plate since this rig is my wife's new daily driver and will most likely never see a trail other than a forest road. Just looking to keep things from bouncing up the front of the engine and suspension.

So who has a cheap, off brand Amazon or eBay skid plate? How does it fit? What issues have you had?

Would replace with an aftermarket skid plate RCI for about $400 or you can source a TRD pro skid plate from $200-300 range. There is a recent forum on the RCI skid plate, advantage is it has removable plates for oil changes vs taking entire skid plate off.

Edit: nevermind I was skim reading as usual, you dont need to drill. I would still chase the threads. Just buy some stainless metric bolts of at Menards or wherever and be done with it.


Sounds like it has a diff drop and some sort of skid spacer getup to compensate. Get your self a a small metal punch, good drill bits (those gold Milwaukee ones at HD are nice), a metric thread chaser/cleaner kit and some stainless bolts (M8x1.25 I think but have to check). And a tube of anti-sieze

Punch a small indent in the center if the snapped bolt and drill SLOWLY at a straight angle (wearing eyepro), stepping up in bit sizes until the fragments if the bolt fall out of the threads. You can scrape out the threads a bit with a pick tool.

Now spray some oil in there are run the M8x1.25 thread cleaner through it. Apply anti-sieze on new bolts and bolt up with whatever spacers you need.

If you screw it up you'll need an M10 tap, some cutting fluid and a little time on youtube. And M10 bolts. Assuming nobody has snapped off a bolt extractor in there already.

Thanks, maybe I should have been more clear. I'm not looking for a trail rated expensive replacement where a piece of plastic will do.

I'd like specific feedback on the sub-$200 Amazon and eBay skid plates.


Thanks. As stated, all the bolts have been removed.

I should be receiving mine today. I'll report back if anything goes wrong, but from what I've read it should go smoothly. Here is the one I ordered:

Amazon.com

The OEM TRD pro skid isn't very strong. Mine lasted one trail run. So I don't think you're probably going to have a big loss with the ebay version. As long as it fits, it's probably fine. Looking at the stamping, it might even be the same part.

That's precisely the one I'm eyeballing. I would very much like to hear how the fitment is.

I do appreciate the tips on broken bolt removal. For most it's a scary thing and often ends up worse off when the drill comes out. Lol!

I will be chasing the threads before installing whatever I end up with. In fact, if I do replace it, I'm probably going to get stainless hardware and not even use the stuff that comes with the new plate.

A new skid probably just comes with stainless bolts it's fine to use those. There's nothing superior about them it's just easy to grab at the hardware store and wont rust. It's normal to find random replacement bolts on skids that were ever exposed to shop oil changes (originals get dropped in catch pans or wherever).

There are some things they are not suitable/dangerous to use, anything critical that is expected to take certain stresses. The metal qualities of stainless are different than the OE bolts. So only use OE or bolts specifically approved for the application on suspension, recovery points etc.

The factory service manual has a section about identifying bolt grades and stuff. Super boring.

Lol! You have much more confidence in overseas knock-offs than I do. The only reason for stainless in this application is to prevent rusting, nothing else.

I've got an extensive background in engineering and mechanics, specifically in underwater applications. There are many case studies and lessons learned about use of correct fasteners and it boils down to "just because it is dimensionally correct does not mean it is metallurgically correct". You're correct, it's boring material to get into but some of the lessons were learned the hard way and that's never good.

While we're talking bolts probably worth mentioning the re-use of some bolts when replacing parts can be a no-no because they stretch when torqued, which isn't an obvious thing to consider unless reading the fine print of the FSM. Let's skip the antisieze/threadlock affects on torque issue before it gets tooo boring lol.

If it were me, I would skip the stainless bolts and get some high-quality grade 8 bolts and use appropriate aluminum or copper anti-seize.


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And you'd be wasting your money.

A baseline knowledge of fastener types and grades would tell you that.

At any rate, @Idchien feel free to post the results of your install here or link to another thread.

Sorry for the delay. FedEx tends to hit me the last part of the day (or so it seems)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3f35cdeec9.jpg

Arrived, perfect shape. Quality seems good. Hilariously came with trd emblems but doesn't have a cut out. I probably won't install these

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0fb91db0a3.jpg

Mine also came with an extra set of hardware in a gallon ziploc bag. Seems like it was a return or something.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...39e0854c62.jpg

I added the hardware but unnecessary. The setup here is wrong. Spacers go towards the front

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b6939e315c.jpg

I reused old hardware towards the back of the vehicle. Included hardware was too long. Perfect for front with spacers though

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...95bcd03eba.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...81f6f1b89b.jpg

Worth the $180 to me. Very happy with it


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I don't think I would worry that much for holding on an aluminum amazon skid. If you're doing something that makes it an issue sureIy you will have bigger probs. I suppose if I was replacing all of them on the steel skids I'd buy the flanged 8.8 ones, or just go to the dealer at that point if I had the time. Menards sells JIS ones with same head size as OE if you're in Menards country.