DIY: Interior LED swap (cluster, HVAC, switches, window, *steering wheel)
 

Here is my write up on how to change the color of your interior lights for the 4th Gen 4Runner.

**Disclaimer: This "how to" is for informational purposes only. I take no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle. If you do not have basic soldering skills, please do not attempt. Serious damage could occur.**

Tools needed to remove cluster/steering wheel controls/HVAC unit:
10mm Socket (used to take apart dash/disconnect negative battery)
Small flat head screwdriver (remove steering wheel panels and unscrew bulb holders)
medium Phillips screwdriver (remove steering wheel control)
T-30 Hex Driver (disconnect Air Bag from steering wheel)

Tools needed or suggested to complete LED swap:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4218/...9b08ea63_b.jpg
I know the fork is ghetto but it works...


15 PLCC-2 Surface Mount SMT LEDs (2-RPM, 3-Speedometer, 3-odometer, 2-gear selector backlight, 1-Fuel, 1-temp, 3-steering wheel controls)
20-backlight only/16-indicators(1-rear window, 1*-4x4 switch, 1-Reset/Mode, 2-HVAC screen, 1-defrost, 1-recirculate, 1-fan speed, 1-A/C, 1-Fan location, 1-cup holder, 1-gear selector, 1-DAC, 1-window, 1-Air bag, 1-Passenger indicator, 1 or 2-115V, 1-RSCA off, 1-VSC, 1-Diff lock)

Useful links:
<a href="http://www.castulucci.com/projects/carpc/oemnaviaccess/">Remove lower dash, center console and HVAC unit</a>
<a href="http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225203">Detailed how-to to swap Steering wheel control LED's</a>. I won't go over this since slvrAZtaco's write-up is thorough.

<B>Cluster LED Swap</B>

1) disconnect battery using the 10mm socket
2) Remove lower driver side dash and let it hang (Step 3 - <a href="http://www.castulucci.com/projects/carpc/oemnaviaccess/">http://www.castulucci.com/projects/carpc/oemnaviaccess/)</a>
- While you have it disconnected, you can pull all the switches located on this panel
3) Grab the trim surrounding the gauge cluster near the bottom and pull towards you. Clips are the only thing holding it in place.
4) There are 3 screws/10mm bolts holding the gauge cluster and 2 bolts connecting the harnesses.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4210/...8d832432_b.jpg

This is what's behind the cluster
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4234/...32b19cf6_b.jpg
5) Remove the clear lens and interior black trim. both pieces are held on by plastic tabs.
6) Remove white plastic backing
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4278/...ec22d4ff_b.jpg

7) Take pictures of the needle positions at rest. It’s very important to keep the gauges accurate throughout.
8) Use the fork to lift the needle off the metal shaft safely. I found the fork is able to lift the needle while keeping it level and it will prevent you from accidentally twisting the needle during removal
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4231/...9c237439_b.jpg

9) Remove the gauge face and reveal the white base with the plastic light distribution lens
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4281/...5dc8fa33_b.jpg

10) Take care when you are removing the odometer LCD. When you separate the white base and the PCB, do it evenly so you won't damage the prongs.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4238/...f3c523af_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4231/...3db300b9_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4285/...556e14fd_b.jpg

Note:
- i found it easy to melt one side and carefully lift up that edge just enough to disengage. Then melt the other side to remove with tweezers.
- make sure you clean all old solder off the pads using the wick or solder sucker
- flux each pad
- Tin the pads
- The notch on the LED is the cathode. On the cluster, it has arrows to identify the direction you should place the LED.
- make sure you clean any extra flux off the PCB by using the contact cleaner sprayed on a q-tip after you attach the LED.

Pay close attention to the LCD odometer. Make sure you don't get any fingerprints on the leads or bend the leads when re-inserting the LCD into the PCB.
Once you're done, reassemble in reverse order.

<B>Swap Bulbs for switches</B>

Now that you got the hardest part finished, now it's time to work on the bulbs for the switches and HVAC unit.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4239/...633221b4_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4260/...342e5e1f_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4234/...db019598_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4231/...ff27efe1_b.jpg

Now you put the resistor on one side and a solid core wire on the other side and just wrap the ends around
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4213/...c86085c5_b.jpg

Use the helping hands to position LED and the holder in place so you can aim the LED toward the back of the switch
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4259/...871a5834_b.jpg

Note:
- The positive side of switch is the bottom side for the backlighting, top side for the on indicator.
- The bulb holder for the 3 main switches on the HVAC needs to be drilled out to fit the resistor inside the shaft and maintain factory height. For these bulb holders, you do not have to angle the LED.
- I used 1/8W 1.2k Ohm resistors for all the LED's.
- If you want to change out the indicator lights for the 3 main switches, you have to take apart the HVAC unit and replace all the LED's soldered into the switch PCB.

<B>Swap Window LED</B>

Now that your cluster, individual switches and HVAC is pretty much done, time for the window switch.

1) Remove the sail trim piece above the tweeter
2) Remove plastic tab to the right of the tweeter
3) Remove plastic trim behind the handle to reveal 1 screw
4) Remove arm rest to reveal the 2nd screw

Here is where the tabs are...pull from the bottom and work your way up.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4231/...f16668ff_b.jpg

5) Disconnect door release cable and lock

Here is the unit removed from the door panel
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4278/...37ed844e_b.jpg

Remove window lock button to release the PCB from the switches
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4237/...ab556104_b.jpg

Here is the orange LED that you want to replace
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/...a5869f60_b.jpg

Here it is after the swap (be careful..you can see my iron accidentally touched the plastic harness next to the LED)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4239/...73e4cea7_b.jpg

Here is the final product:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4233/...04ffd3af_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4288/...04acccbd_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4218/...8ccd18c2_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/...f9e3e1e2_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4214/...cdf11974_b.jpg

i should send u my cluster to have u do mines all blue, im too scared to mess with it, some people said there speedo was goin on anf off on them.

Great write up! It really makes me want to get my solder station up and running again!

I have a question though. While checking out your pictures, I noticed in the following picture that the bulb has a colored bulb cover on it. Did you happen to simply remove the cover and check it out before proceeding with replacing them all with LEDs?
I was just curious since this was how I always modified my older Alpine radios. The bulbs used in the faceplates had bulb covers on them, so I would either remove them, or install different color covers to change the illumination.

This may save some work replacing LEDs. Working on the gauge cluster looks interesting enough!

A/V1, have you tried replacing the bulb caps/condom with a different color? and did the color of the illumination change to the color of the caps? It might be the easiest way if we only want to change the color(except white)
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php...=312&parent=75

darkie3495,
Good job!!...
:clap:
In the surfacemount LEDS are there markers which end is the anode or cathode? or do we have to bias/orient each one?:)

actually i did try that at first before starting this project. I thought i hit the jackpot when i saw the cover, but taking off the cover just made the light a bit more yellowish rather than orange. Trust me, i would have liked to just take the cover off and be done with it.

I also tried just sticking in an LED straight in without aiming it. The backlight was just too dim.

This is interesting.....definitely a good alternative if you want any other color.

There is an arrow on the PCB that shows the current direction. So it goes (anode) > (cathode) meaning the arrow is pointing in the direction of the cathode. This only applies to the cluster PCB. For the steering wheel controls, you have to either make a mental note or take a picture. The LED's have a little notch on the cathode side to make it easier.:D

Nice write up and it looks great. Makes you wonder why the heck Toyota sticks with puke orange lighting.

Excellent job writing this!!! I am not too worried about the color of the lights for now...but maybe in the future I'll try this...after the warranty runs out hehe

Nice write up. I would think this would already be stickied or something.

Ha...actually i fly into oakland once every snowboard season to meet up with my cousin's. we make a trip out to tahoe together. If you still need some help, i'll fly out a day early to give you a hand.

Most of the time if the speedo is off, then the needle wasn't installed in the right position. I took a bunch of pictures and placed blue painter's tape on the gauge as a ref point. and just to satisfy my slight OCD, i double checked my speed with my navi (although with bigger tires, it was a bit off but close enough)

Thanks everyone!!

pipspeak, who knows....maybe in a few years, interior lighting color might be an option when you purchase a new vehicle.

shuly, i was planning to wait until after my warranty ran out but the combination of a late snowboard season and the fact that i'm coming up on 30k, i figured i might as well do it now.

BUMP

This should be stickied!