Changing Differential & Transfer Case Fluids - Pics Included
 

A few pics and a quick write-up to help the first timers (like me!) out there. Please excuse the cell phone pictures.

Tools needed:

- 12mm & 24mm socket
- 10mm hex bit socket
- Ratchet/Breaker bar (torque wrench recommended)
- 3"+ extender
- 7 qts. gear lube
- Bottle pump
- Drain pan

Part numbers for crush washers and fill/drain plugs (thanks @aika1 and @d_clark ):

Transfer Case Fill Gasket 90430-18008
Transfer Case Drain Gasket 90430-18008
Front Differential Fill Gasket 12157-10010
Front Differential Drain Gasket 90430-24003
Rear Differential Fill Gasket 12157-10010
Rear Differential Drain Gasket 12157-10010

Transfer Case Drain Plug 90341-18006
Transfer Case Fill Plug 90341-18006
Transfer Case Breather Plug 90930-03172
Rear Differential Drain Plug 90341-18057
Rear Differential Fill Plug 90341-18006
Rear Differential Breather Plug 90930-03031
Front Differential Drain Plug 90341-24014
Front Differential Fill Plug 90341-18032
Front Differential Breather Plug 90930-03136
Oil Pan Drain Plug 90341-12012
Oil Pan Drain Plug Gasket 90430-12031

For some extra room to work, I put my truck on a couple of ramp stands. I used a level on the side steps to find where the truck sits on even ground. Then I tried to find a spot on my driveway so that the car was level when it was on the ramps. Luckily, I found the perfect spot and I got working:

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...G.jpg~original

It looks uneven but it's really level, I promise :D

I started in the front and removed the 4 skid plate bolts. To get the the front 2 bolts, use an extension since they're recessed a few inches.

NOTE: It is a good rule of thumb to remove the fill bolt before the drain. If this does not come off, then STOP! and at least you're not stranded in your garage without any gear lube in your car...

First I drained and filled the front diff:

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...G.jpg~original

Drain Plug - 10mm hex bit, 48 ft/lbs
Fill Plug - 10mm hex bit, 29 ft/lbs
Fill quantity - 1.5 qts.

Next was the transfer case:

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...G.jpg~original

Drain Plug - 24mm socket, 27 ft/lbs
Fill Plug - 24mm socket, 27 ft/lbs
Fill quantity - 1.5 qts.

And last, I turned the car around (after reinstalling the skid plate) to do the rear diff:

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...G.jpg~original

Drain Plug - 24mm socket, 36 ft/lbs
Fill Plug - 24mm socket, 36 ft/lbs
Fill quantity - 3+ qts. (6.3 pints)

I just made sure that I filled each one up the fill plug to the point where gear lube started to drip out. Toyota spec is 0-5mm from the fill holes.

I only had 5k miles on the truck at the time, but I wanted to make the switch to synthetic... I used Amsoil 75W-90 in all three. Also, I heard it's not a bad idea to switch out the factory fill bc most of the break-in for the differentials is within the first 3500-5000 miles anyway.

Here's the metal that was on the rear's drain plug:

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...G.jpg~original

As you might expect, the transfer case gear lube was basically still new. The front and rear had minor discoloration. Also, don't forget the magnetic plugs are the drain plugs!

Time to start towing! Good luck everyone :D

Great post! Since I will be doing the same soon I appreciate it. I got the Amsoil 80w90 for the rear because that is what is in the book. I'll use mobil1 75w90 or Valvoline Syn 75w90 for the other two.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by AMSOIL
[B]AMSOIL Severe Gear

I removed the spare when I drained my rear diff.
LOTS of room when removed.
Also its a good time to clean the rim and inspect etc...

Looks good

I will be doing the same this summer. I currently have 35000 miles on her and the extra info will help. Probably going with Mobil 1.

Great post, thanks :bigok: I placed a link to it in a few other threads that are related:D



I don't want to contribute to a population explosion of stickies. If someone reads through the transmission servicing or the greasing driveshaft sticky they'll find a link to this if they want it.

This is another thread with more discussion: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...threadid=10117

:cheers:

Keep in mind that the Fill and Drain plug crush gaskets are Toyota specified as a "Non-reusable part".

Anyone in need of a couple of quarts of Amsoil 75w-90 Severe Gear oil? I just changed my diffs. and transfer case and have 2 unopened quarts left over (bought extra because I mixed up quarts w/pints :bash: ). I paid $12.75 each and can do $20 shipped for both.

Werd on that - I just did this today after reading this. Taking out the spare made plenty of room, and I found some pretty deep "rubs" in the sidewall of the spare (2 years in same spot); I would suggest rotating the spare tire on its holder every few months (looks like I need to replace this one).

I used Royal Purple 75/90 in the diff. Just drain out old, clean bolts, squirt in new. I must say that this task is even easier than changing the engine oil. Just fiddy bones for some sweet synth punkin' juice...

PLEASE REMEMBER THESE TORQUE SPECS!

Just to fill in the gaps, the torque on the front diff should be:

Drain:48ft/lbs
Fill:29ft/lbs

Rear Diff:
Drain and Fill:36ft/lbs

This is per the Toyota Repair Manual.

What does this mean? The seals on the plugs need to be replaced when you remove them?

No, just the crush washers/gaskets. Not the plugs themselves.

I just hit 30k on my 4R and serviced all 3 boxes with Mobil 1 75W-90. Having the V8 with full-time 4-wheel drive I was noticing some binding when cranking the wheel hard (getting in and out of parking spots, flipping U-turns, etc.) but since I have switched to the Mobil 1, it is all but gone away. I am REALLY glad I went with the Mobil 1 and would highly recommend it regardless of whether you tow or not. :)

The metal washer on the fill and drain plugs. There will be a couple different part numbers involved. You may be able to get a way without changing them, once perhaps, but Toyota specifies that they should be replaced. They are cheap insurance, if the dealer has them in stock.

Ah cool thanks.

Just trying to weigh up whether I should have a crack at this myself or just let the mechanic do it for ~$300. Dont have any Tools, or car stands. How important is the Torque specs when tightening the plugs? How do you measure that? With the tools im guessing.

You need a torque wrench. Lowes has Husky torgue wrenchs for a reasonable price, and they have a lifetime warranty. I suppose you could probably try to get your truck level enough just putting the wheels up on a curb (you will have to figure out the orientation for all that though!).