12 Circuit Fuse Block Install
Hi all :hello:
As I started adding more electronic accessories to my Runner I decided I needed a cleaner way of tapping into the power source. I searched and found some good write-ups on FJ, TT, and ExPo I decided to do one for us 4Runners. This does take a little bit of handy work with such tools like a Dremel and a drill but not overly complicated. *** DISCLAIMER: Always wear safety equipment when performing such work. Disconnect your battery before you start your work. Before you reconnect the battery tripple check your work. I take no responsibility in what you do with this write-up or whatever happens to you and your vehicle. *** Items used
Diagram Basically the idea is to have a fuse block that I can access either constant or accessory/on 12volt power. http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/6...ockdiagram.jpg Location This write-up is related to 4th Gens so previous Gens your mileage may vary. I chose to put the fuse box in the engine bay near the battery. Now some have mix feelings about this such as exposure to water, mud, etc... I originally had some aftermarket power connects right at the battery terminal so to me this would be the same. On other forums some do it this way as others do it right on the firewall inside their cabins just above the footwell. I personally couldn't find any room to do it there so in the engine bay it went. The pros of locating it in the engine bay is that it's easy to access, the cons are you have to run your positive through the firewall boot for each accessory that's inside your cabin. http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/6655/img2348.jpg Blue Sea 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block 12 Circuit From other forums this fuse block seems to be the chosen one. It's a marine product for the boating industry but as you can see it's not water resistant. You can have a myriad of connections styles but I chose 6 circuits on constant power and the last 6 on Acc/On key states. I've also seen other fuse blocks by other manufacturers with built-in relays but I haven't seen any reviews on them so I don't know how well they are. Note: I've also read that 12 circuits on one draw may be too much load so splitting in two circuits is probably a good idea. http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6285/img2373.jpg Reconfigure for 6 Constant & 6 Acc/On Make sure you're careful when dremeling your brand new $40 fuse block. You don't want to have an oops moment. ;) The first thing is to cut the middle bar so circuits 1-6 and 7-12 are seperated. Next will be to cut the negative wing terminals and discard them. The negative side of the post will no longer be negative as you will create a jumper to the 1-6 terminals for positive connection. When creating your jumper use an 8 awg power wire. I stripped the wire bare and applied 2 disconnects at the end. If your disconnects are smaller than mine then there's no need to have the wire bare. I also had to use a washer on one of my disconnects because it was a lot larger than the connecting screw and the disconnect size was all that I had. http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/7591/img2375.jpg Reconfigure Complete All done! http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/4196/img2376e.jpg Install Brackets To mount the fuse block I used 5" L or shelf brackets from Lowes. I used the existing bottom holes from my Runner and will have to drill two new holes an inch and a half above that for the top screws. The fuse block sits right on top of the bottom part of the bracket and screws in using one set of the predrilled holes. For the top part of the fuse block you'll have to drill two more holes on the bracket. I also mounted the relay just underneath the fuse block using one of the predrilled holes. The reason I mounted this way is that you have to give room for the hood shocks to lower and close with out hitting the fuse block. This option works out well and it's very sturdy. http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/512/img2354z.jpg Configure Relay Sorry I didn't have a better picture of the relay but basically if you look at the diagram above you can see how the relay is set up. The idea is that you have a constant power source from the battery, a connection to the fuse box, a trigger such as Acc/On to tell the relay to make the connection and a ground. The middle terminal 87a is not used. For more info about relays visit The12Volt here. http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/3135/img2394.jpg Add-A-Circuit For the relay trigger on I used a mini Add-A-Circuit you can get from Autozone. As many before had mention, you can tap into a power source using an existing fuse which makes everything look clean. The Acc/On I chose was the 4Runner's CIG fuse. So when the key is in the Acc or On position, it triggers the relay to turn on circuits 7-12. No unwanted battery drain if you happen to leave an accessory on while the vehicle is turned off. http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2292/img2450.jpg All Done And my first candidate for connection.. Cobra 75 WX ST. http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/489/img2454.jpg Keep Runnin! :driving: |
:clap: VERY COOL MAN!!! I've been sitting on this very same fuse box for like the past year and a half! Like your idea for the constant/switched setup. Plus your mounting idea has given me a excuse to just finally put it in (sorry if I take your idea!).:clap:
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The Blue Sea block is very nice and splitting it into 6/6 is the way to go. :bigok:
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Hey Mike, good deal. No excuses now. :D
JA know's his stuff! Love your work man! |
resurrecting this one from the dead (sorry), as I'm going to attempt (the operative word) to do this to my 4Runner when I get my driving lights and other electricals in...
a ?: can one get 2 6 circuit fuse boxes rather than getting a 12 circuit and splitting it up like you did? Would that entail much more work setting up (aside from the obvious more wiring)? I presume I could just have 1 6 circuit box for the 'always on', and the other box to be ACC/on correct? sorry, am a electrical noob, and shadetree mechanic to boot! |
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thanks for the reply Darkie! I originally got the fuse box idea from your build, and figure I might as well do this before I get my fogs etc... installed...the parts are coming in...bit by bit!
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So is there no negative side now?
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Nice write up.
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My back window will not operate where the fuse is or spread that operates the back window. Is it installation problem?
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@s-one
is there a pics album to fill in the blanks?
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