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battery light on
So my battery light on the dash came on yesterday, still starts great and don't notice any thing wrong, what could cause that? I did my timing belt a few weeks ago, might have the alternator belt too tight? How do you check the belt tension?
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Your alternator might be pooping on you. But before you get excited about getting a new alternator, check the connections on the battery. The battery light is on because the battery isn't maintaining a charge that the computer wants it at.
I had a situation with a race car long ago. Be it that it was a race car I rigged up a lot of stuff, one of which was using a smaller battery and thus rigged up a new positive cable. Apparently I did a crappy job at it and the battery wasn't getting a good connection from the positive cable. Long story short, I was driving one day and saw the battery light come on, thought nothing of it, then it flickered and one day while on the interstate the car just pooped on me. Problem bad connection to the battery. |
bad alternator (brushes, internal regulator, rectifier set, short/open windings), loose belt, bad battery cables, bad alternator wiring/connections, loose/missing grounds.
A little systematic trouble shooting is required, but cleaning and tightening battery terminals (also clean battery top if it needs it) and the grounds at fender wall, alternator, and the one on engine by diagnostic plug are are good ideas anyway. See if you have charging voltage at the battery terminals of 14-15V. Verify state of charge of battery to see if it is going down--should be 12V-12.5+V with engine off. Also check alternator fusible link in engine junction box. That's how I'd start. Don't ignore it. Battery will keep car running and starting for a short time (at night, less than 30 minutes) until it decides to crump at worst possible time: miles from home, at night, with wipers on due to rain or snow. |
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Charging circuit diagram (Factory Wiring Manual) |
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Check it out asap - if it's a dead or dying alternator it can kill the battery along with it if you leave things too long - a bad battery can similarly put excessive demands on your alternator and lead to early failure of that also.
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may as well upgrade to the big gm cs 144 :)
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Looks like it is my alternator, I put a voltmeter on the battery with the engine off and had 12V, started it and it didn't go up. Looks like I have a valve cover leak and the oil might have fouled the alternator brushes, anyone have any idea what I could try to clean it with? The alternator is only about 1 year old.
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Do you have a warranty on it? and I know when you get mud in there you can ussually just rinse it out with a water hose i dont know if that will work for this though.
Let me know what else you come up with becuase mine just came on today after I put in my new HID headlights and used my lights on my rack for about an hour tonight. So I'm interested in to see why it did that. |
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First, I would recommend you take the alt. to a shop that can bench test it for you. This eliminates any possibility the fault is in the on-board wiring. If you settle for a test with it on the motor, make sure they connect right to the alt. Some of these auto-parts stores don't and then try and sell you a new alt when all you needed was a cable. Don't fall into the trap of buying a cheap reman and turning in your stock Denso for core. Try and fix it yourself or get someone to repair it. The after-market and remans probably won't last as long as a repaired Denso.
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http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/voltchart1.gif How cold is it there? Be careful or that battery may freeze on you--I heard about some low temps at night in AZ. |
Just used some CRC electrocleaner on the alternator and cleaned all the terminals, only getting 11.7 before starting and goes down to 11.5 after start up. Getting the same number when checking the terminal off the alternator. Guess I'll take it out and get it bench checked. Thanks for all the info guys!
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