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Old 02-25-2009, 01:35 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by sharp4runr
Is your gas cap on tight? Seriously...

I remember reading a post where a member drove off with the gas cap off and the idiot lights came on...
Dude you rock!
I had the same problem, both VSC lights and the Maint light were on.

Sure enough the cap was loose.
A big thanks!

Richard
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Old 03-13-2009, 07:42 AM #17
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Same thing happened to me. My first try to fix it was to disconnect the battery. My second try was to check the gas cap and then disconnect the battery - it worked.
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:48 AM #18
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I agree with Boston Kevin, I just recieved a call from my dealership and they told me that it was a faulty oxygen sensor. They're asking $435.00 to change the sensor...

Now heres the next question, I read above that there are (4) sensors? Wow, I thought it was just two. Can I simply toss a Bosch equivelant from Autozone in there?

Is it difficult to get the sensors?
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:52 AM #19
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Does anyone know offhand which brand is the stock oxygen sensor for 2004 4runner SR5 v6? Bosch, Denso, NTK, Walker, etc...?
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:14 AM #20
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Stock sensors were/are Denso. Get the code to determine which sensor is faulty and you can replace it for under $130 with an aftermarket one. I had code P0136 (Faulty heated sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2). Replaced it with NTK(NGK) for $119 from Parts Plus. For $435, it sounds like a good deal if the dealer will replace ALL 4 sensors.
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:47 PM #21
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The cost is $435.00 for one sensor, parts and labor.

According to the dealership, it is Bank 2, Sensor 2 oxygen sensor, located by the catalytic converter at the end of the engine, next to the firewall.

Any ideas which sensor this exactly is? He wouldn't devulge the error code via the phone, since he was not the actual technician. I checked out Partznet.com, and looked at their diagram....it could any three sensors at this point. Any clue?
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:58 PM #22
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FYI, i found out Yota refers to Bank 2 as being the driver side, and Bank 1 as being the passenger side. Sensor 1 is before the CAT, sensor 2 is after the CAT. There are 4 Cats on this model… One for each side for each side of the engine exhaust, one for when they twin, and one for the exhaust…

And Partz.net orientates its parts from the driver seat.
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Old 08-12-2009, 04:40 PM #23
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Bank 2 Sensor 2 will be located directly underneath the truck where your feet would be if you're driving. Depending on the (sensor) manufacturer the main difference between Bank1Sensor2 and Bank2Sensor2 is the length of the wires. Driver side is longer. The NTK I replaced it with was suitable for both sides. $435 is a bit pricey (for me) to replace 1 sensor, even though the dealer quoted me for $190 on the part.
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:58 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owen4runner View Post
the main difference between Bank1Sensor2 and Bank2Sensor2 is the length of the wires.
Also the connector is of a different type so you cannot plug a downstream senor into an upstream harness
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Old 08-14-2009, 04:14 PM #25
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Quote:
Also the connector is of a different type so you cannot plug a downstream senor into an upstream harness
You are correct. Sensors 2 (downstream) can not be used for Sensors 1 (Upstream). However sensors 2 are interchangable between driver and passenger sides depending on which manufacturer due to the wire length.
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:51 AM #26
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cel vcs/ trac off lights w/ codes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ksneubec View Post
Let us know what they tell you.
I have a good one here.
I have an 04 SR5 V6 w/ 134,000 miles on it. I started it up one day and it shook pretty good for about 30 seconds and then went away. the CEL and VSC/TRAC off lights came on and stayed on. I drove it to work, everything was fine. Started it after 8 hrs. same thing shake for 30 sec. then runs fine. Pulled codes and had a #6 cylinder miss-fire. Changed Plugs. She ran fine for 2 days and then the same thing started. pulled code again , same thing. Swapped #6 coil pack with #4. ran for 2 days problem returned. pulled code #4 miss-fire!!!! yaa problem solved!! not quite. Put #4 pack back on #4 and changed #6 coil pack with new. Ran fine last night. Started it up this morning engine shake again for 30 seconds and CEL blinked for a couple of seconds and then went out, engine drove fine. What the heck??? Same exact problem. I will pull code again once it stays on. What would cause the eninge to shake (like a cylinder isn't firing) for 30 seconds (give or take a couple) and then run fine. No noticable loss of power. gas cap tight, just passed emmisions. I am lost on this one. ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, one more thing. when the CEL was cleared why didn't the VSC/TRAC off light go out? Those are the only light that won't go out. Then come on as soon as the vehicle moves. It stays out for as long as the engine is running and you haven't moved when you first start it up. PLEASE HELP!!!
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:57 AM #27
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How much gas is in the tank? It is possible that an almost empty gas tank has water from condensation that collects overnight or dirt get into the cylinder that obvious would have problems firing. The other though because multiple light are involved there is an error in the computer program that could be caused by a bad sensor.
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:59 AM #28
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Is it ok to drive

I have had the same problem twice now-am wondering if it's ok to drive with the vsc lights on? Is it doing any damage or is it dangerous that it's disabled? I can't afford to fix this again for the 2nd time in 6 months!!

thanks

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Old 12-22-2010, 05:28 PM #29
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Hi All,

I got lucky and was able to fix (suppress) this issue by installing a ScanGauge2. My issue was that these lights appeared only during cold weather. My truck ran perfect, even when the lights came on.

I was able to verify that the problem came back after removal and has not come back after reinstalling. Well worth the $150 for the added gauges and (ironically) an error code reader (which i had NO codes, even with the the dash lights on).

I don't have a technical explanation, but my thought is that somehow the plug on the OBD2 wire for the Scangauge2 effect the triggers for these lights. Similar to how we need to tap into this to do the zero-point calibration.

Either way, hope this helps some of you. I can't say it will work 100%, but it did for me

Regards and Happy holidays!
Bill

Last edited by bxc13; 12-22-2010 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 12-28-2010, 03:23 PM #30
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help

I have an '04 SR5, Runner. I had the CEL and VSC Trac lights come on on Friday. Dropped it off to a dealership Monday and was told my front catalytic converter needed to be replaced to the tune of $1100.00. What I have read on this site, most everyones challeges were gas cap, O2 sensor, etc not CAT. My brother is a mechanic, not close to me or I would have gone to him, and first thing he said it sounded like was an O2 sensor without even looking at the truck or knowing what the the stealership told me. I know that I'm not the most car savvy and I am a women, but this seemed outrageous to me.

They also said that my ground cable on the battery had torn away due to the harness on the battery breaking off and that I was lucky I didn't have a massive electrical meltdown of the system and that would need to be fixed since the truck was inoperatable. That is supposed to be $75, parts and labor but I'm thinking that this may also reset the CEL- or at least that is what I am praying for!

Any thoughts? advice?
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