02-25-2009, 01:35 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Walnut Creek
Posts: 13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Walnut Creek
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally posted by sharp4runr
Is your gas cap on tight? Seriously...
I remember reading a post where a member drove off with the gas cap off and the idiot lights came on...
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Dude you rock!
I had the same problem, both VSC lights and the Maint light were on.
Sure enough the cap was loose.
A big thanks!
Richard
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03-13-2009, 07:42 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sudbury, Ontario
Posts: 25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sudbury, Ontario
Posts: 25
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Same thing happened to me. My first try to fix it was to disconnect the battery. My second try was to check the gas cap and then disconnect the battery - it worked.
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08-12-2009, 10:48 AM
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#18
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
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I agree with Boston Kevin, I just recieved a call from my dealership and they told me that it was a faulty oxygen sensor. They're asking $435.00 to change the sensor...
Now heres the next question, I read above that there are (4) sensors? Wow, I thought it was just two. Can I simply toss a Bosch equivelant from Autozone in there?
Is it difficult to get the sensors?
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08-12-2009, 10:52 AM
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#19
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
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Does anyone know offhand which brand is the stock oxygen sensor for 2004 4runner SR5 v6? Bosch, Denso, NTK, Walker, etc...?
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08-12-2009, 11:14 AM
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#20
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Whidbey Island, WA
Age: 53
Posts: 169
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Whidbey Island, WA
Age: 53
Posts: 169
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Stock sensors were/are Denso. Get the code to determine which sensor is faulty and you can replace it for under $130 with an aftermarket one. I had code P0136 (Faulty heated sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2). Replaced it with NTK(NGK) for $119 from Parts Plus. For $435, it sounds like a good deal if the dealer will replace ALL 4 sensors.
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'04 Runner SR5, DeBadged, Rear bumper lens as Stop/Tail lights, EchoMaster Reverse Sensor, Hood Deflector, In-channel Window vent, Stinger Volt meter gauge, Scion Pioneer Head Unit, Front Lights clear lens protector. Hella Optilux 2500 Driving lights, Interior Blue LED lights, Waterproof Neoprene Seat Covers, Nokya Chrome Sports Pedals, Michelin LTX A/T2
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08-12-2009, 12:47 PM
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#21
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
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The cost is $435.00 for one sensor, parts and labor.
According to the dealership, it is Bank 2, Sensor 2 oxygen sensor, located by the catalytic converter at the end of the engine, next to the firewall.
Any ideas which sensor this exactly is? He wouldn't devulge the error code via the phone, since he was not the actual technician. I checked out Partznet.com, and looked at their diagram....it could any three sensors at this point. Any clue?
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08-12-2009, 02:58 PM
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#22
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
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FYI, i found out Yota refers to Bank 2 as being the driver side, and Bank 1 as being the passenger side. Sensor 1 is before the CAT, sensor 2 is after the CAT. There are 4 Cats on this model… One for each side for each side of the engine exhaust, one for when they twin, and one for the exhaust…
And Partz.net orientates its parts from the driver seat.
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08-12-2009, 04:40 PM
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#23
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Whidbey Island, WA
Age: 53
Posts: 169
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Whidbey Island, WA
Age: 53
Posts: 169
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Bank 2 Sensor 2 will be located directly underneath the truck where your feet would be if you're driving. Depending on the (sensor) manufacturer the main difference between Bank1Sensor2 and Bank2Sensor2 is the length of the wires. Driver side is longer. The NTK I replaced it with was suitable for both sides. $435 is a bit pricey (for me) to replace 1 sensor, even though the dealer quoted me for $190 on the part.
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'04 Runner SR5, DeBadged, Rear bumper lens as Stop/Tail lights, EchoMaster Reverse Sensor, Hood Deflector, In-channel Window vent, Stinger Volt meter gauge, Scion Pioneer Head Unit, Front Lights clear lens protector. Hella Optilux 2500 Driving lights, Interior Blue LED lights, Waterproof Neoprene Seat Covers, Nokya Chrome Sports Pedals, Michelin LTX A/T2
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08-14-2009, 12:58 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,944
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owen4runner
the main difference between Bank1Sensor2 and Bank2Sensor2 is the length of the wires.
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Also the connector is of a different type so you cannot plug a downstream senor into an upstream harness
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2003 4x4 Sport 4runner V8 with 287k miles and counting
2015 Lexus RC350 F-sport
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08-14-2009, 04:14 PM
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#25
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Whidbey Island, WA
Age: 53
Posts: 169
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Whidbey Island, WA
Age: 53
Posts: 169
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Quote:
Also the connector is of a different type so you cannot plug a downstream senor into an upstream harness
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You are correct. Sensors 2 (downstream) can not be used for Sensors 1 (Upstream). However sensors 2 are interchangable between driver and passenger sides depending on which manufacturer due to the wire length.
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'04 Runner SR5, DeBadged, Rear bumper lens as Stop/Tail lights, EchoMaster Reverse Sensor, Hood Deflector, In-channel Window vent, Stinger Volt meter gauge, Scion Pioneer Head Unit, Front Lights clear lens protector. Hella Optilux 2500 Driving lights, Interior Blue LED lights, Waterproof Neoprene Seat Covers, Nokya Chrome Sports Pedals, Michelin LTX A/T2
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09-18-2009, 08:51 AM
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#26
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 7
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cel vcs/ trac off lights w/ codes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksneubec
Let us know what they tell you.
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I have a good one here.
I have an 04 SR5 V6 w/ 134,000 miles on it. I started it up one day and it shook pretty good for about 30 seconds and then went away. the CEL and VSC/TRAC off lights came on and stayed on. I drove it to work, everything was fine. Started it after 8 hrs. same thing shake for 30 sec. then runs fine. Pulled codes and had a #6 cylinder miss-fire. Changed Plugs. She ran fine for 2 days and then the same thing started. pulled code again , same thing. Swapped #6 coil pack with #4. ran for 2 days problem returned. pulled code #4 miss-fire!!!! yaa problem solved!! not quite. Put #4 pack back on #4 and changed #6 coil pack with new. Ran fine last night. Started it up this morning engine shake again for 30 seconds and CEL blinked for a couple of seconds and then went out, engine drove fine. What the heck??? Same exact problem. I will pull code again once it stays on. What would cause the eninge to shake (like a cylinder isn't firing) for 30 seconds (give or take a couple) and then run fine. No noticable loss of power. gas cap tight, just passed emmisions. I am lost on this one. ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, one more thing. when the CEL was cleared why didn't the VSC/TRAC off light go out? Those are the only light that won't go out. Then come on as soon as the vehicle moves. It stays out for as long as the engine is running and you haven't moved when you first start it up. PLEASE HELP!!!
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09-18-2009, 10:57 AM
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#27
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 794
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 794
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How much gas is in the tank? It is possible that an almost empty gas tank has water from condensation that collects overnight or dirt get into the cylinder that obvious would have problems firing. The other though because multiple light are involved there is an error in the computer program that could be caused by a bad sensor.
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'05 SE 4x V8
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12-22-2010, 11:59 AM
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#28
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
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Is it ok to drive
I have had the same problem twice now-am wondering if it's ok to drive with the vsc lights on? Is it doing any damage or is it dangerous that it's disabled? I can't afford to fix this again for the 2nd time in 6 months!!
thanks
pb
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12-22-2010, 05:28 PM
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#29
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 139
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 139
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Hi All,
I got lucky and was able to fix (suppress) this issue by installing a ScanGauge2. My issue was that these lights appeared only during cold weather. My truck ran perfect, even when the lights came on.
I was able to verify that the problem came back after removal and has not come back after reinstalling. Well worth the $150 for the added gauges and (ironically) an error code reader (which i had NO codes, even with the the dash lights on).
I don't have a technical explanation, but my thought is that somehow the plug on the OBD2 wire for the Scangauge2 effect the triggers for these lights. Similar to how we need to tap into this to do the zero-point calibration.
Either way, hope this helps some of you. I can't say it will work 100%, but it did for me
Regards and Happy holidays!
Bill
Last edited by bxc13; 12-22-2010 at 05:37 PM.
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12-28-2010, 03:23 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
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help
I have an '04 SR5, Runner. I had the CEL and VSC Trac lights come on on Friday. Dropped it off to a dealership Monday and was told my front catalytic converter needed to be replaced to the tune of $1100.00. What I have read on this site, most everyones challeges were gas cap, O2 sensor, etc not CAT. My brother is a mechanic, not close to me or I would have gone to him, and first thing he said it sounded like was an O2 sensor without even looking at the truck or knowing what the the stealership told me. I know that I'm not the most car savvy and I am a women, but this seemed outrageous to me.
They also said that my ground cable on the battery had torn away due to the harness on the battery breaking off and that I was lucky I didn't have a massive electrical meltdown of the system and that would need to be fixed since the truck was inoperatable. That is supposed to be $75, parts and labor but I'm thinking that this may also reset the CEL- or at least that is what I am praying for!
Any thoughts? advice?
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