I have a 97 4runner. The problem is when i try to crank the car, it acts as if its gong to then i hear a clicking noise. The internal power is on but seems kind of dim. It cranks fine when I jump start it. After jump starting it, i let it charge for a while and even have drove around for 30 mins or so.

After letting it charge. i would turn it off for about 5-10 mins and it would crank back up but if i let it sit longer than that, it will not start again. I have had some corrosion on the battery connections and did the coca cola thing. it came off fine and still same thing.

Im very low on money so im just looking to narrow down the possible solution b4 buying a new battery. Is it the battery or could it be something else?

Sounds like the battery has drained down. If you have the money, replace it with a new battery that is rated equal or better than stock (cold crank amps, CCA, should be 700 or greater). If possible, have the alternator output checked as well, just in case it has become faulty (should be putting out aprox 14.5v).

Good luck!

Cleaned your battery connectors really thoroughly?

if you did, yep, sounds like weak battery that does not charge well anymore, or alternator that does not charge the battery anymore.

When you try to start and it sounds like it will, your starter is trying to draw hundreds of amps from your battery, This drops the battery voltage so low that its not even enough to keep relays energized. The clicking sound is from your relays DE-energizing.

running the vehicle for 30 minutes isnt sufficient to recharge a dead battery.

in fact, the vehicle will never fully charge a dead battery.


while, the battery may be bad, you need to put it on a low amp trickle charge for 6 4-6 hours. then have it tested.

theres a good chance, that will the dirty cables, it wasnt getting charged correctly for a long time. and the battery may be fine.

test, dont guess.

Just my suggested diagnostic flow chart

1. Battery terminals
- bad (fix)
-good (step 2)

2. Take to advance auto parts, and ask for the free electrical systems testing.
- bad alternator (replace)
- bad battery (replace)
- within operational standards (12.8V off, 13.8-14.6V engine on, check all connections on main power line, and upgrade to higher gauge wires/connections)
- still faulty beyond that (have a full electrical systems analysis at a mechanics shop)