Just a slight suggestion -- if your hoist can't raise the engine high enough, you can always take the front wheels off of the vehicle, put two large floor jacks under the frame/suspension, and lower the jacks all the way down as low as they'll go. It will probably lower the vehicle a good extra 6-12 inches over what you'd get if you just left the vehicles on its regular tires.

Just a thought, in case you need just that tiny little extra clearance.

Ricky

From my experience, it is usually not necessary to remove the trans when pulling a motor. You didn't specify, but I am guessing you have a 2wd, not a 4wd, because it is a lot more difficult to pull the 4wd trans. If you just pull the motor, you shouldn't have any problem with the lift height of most engine hoists. The suggestion to remove the front wheels to lower the front end is interesting, but once you do that, you will have a problem getting under the vehicle for any last min adjustments or missed connections. And I have found that the first time you pull an engine, or a new type of engine, you usually forget something underneath. If you can get your hands on a shop manual, it will give you a good, step by step set of instructions on removing the engine along with engine rebuild info.

Good luck.

Well, if that's an issue and you forget something, just raise the vehicle back up. You typically will only lower the vehicle down when you're sure the engine is completely free and you're ready to move it completely away from the vehicle. By that point, you should have the engine out high enough anyways that you'll see there's nothing else connected.

I've done many (at least 6-7) engine swaps that way with CRXs where I'll get the engine up mostly free of the engine bay, then I lower the car down and push it back out of the way, then I lower the engine to the ground. This was the case when I had a fixed hoist attached to the roof of the garage and didn't have one with wheels. The car itself had to roll, as rolling the engine away from the car wasn't an option for me.

Ricky

I can see how that method would help if you have a fixed chain hoist with low overhead clearance. I am lucky enough to have a freestanding engine crane, that rolls. Now all I need is a garage I can work in.

My 4Runner is a 2WD. I pulled the transmission last night so no turning back now. All I have are the engine mounts to go and the engine comes out.

Hope it all goes well.

OK just a test to see if I can upload pictures into my post. Success! Seems to work just like described in thread http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...threadid=19549


In general, this isn't a view that most people want of thier recently purchased 4Runner. This is the driveshaft tunnel with the transmission dropped down.



Here's my handy-dandy A/C condensor protector. Overkill... maybe but at least I won't be hitting the condensor as the engine comes out.

Here's just a thought, but if that engine is pretty much toast when you get it out and look at it more closely, have you thought about doing a V8 swap?? I'd love to throw one of the new Tundra 5.7L V8's into one of these 4Runners.

Ricky

Yeah, I was thinking the same exact thing except using the current V8 4.7L setup. You have ONE problem by going this route. You stated that you have the 2004 V6 Limited edition. If I am correct, all 03-04 V6 Runners came with the 3rd generation 4-speed transmission. The 05's and beyond come with the same 5-speed tranny as the V8's.
By doing this engine swap, you would have to update your ECM to recognize the new shift points. This is where you are in luck as the 02-06 Sequoia's used the same 4-speed tranny as our 03-04 V6 Runners.
You would probably have to do an update on the MAP air flow sensor, etc to keep the CEL from coming on. Then again....... this computer may just be smart enough to relearn the parameters of the new V8 and match the old trusty 4-speed tranny with it. This might be probable since you will have the battery disconnected for a period of time.
If it was me, as I hate the way my V6 engine ticks and rattles like a 50 ft. tall grandfather clock, I'd opt to buy a 4.7L V8 and use the Sequoia's manual to see the bolt setup for the engine to tranny. You will now have the oil filter located under your engine instead of on top.
Good luck in your overhaul or engine replacement..... whichever route you choose. I hope this never happens to me!

Man I just want to get the truck running again. I'll save the engine swaps for one of my other cars.

Hopefully I have the time to get the motor out this weekend. If so, I'll begin to see 'the damage'.

My wife asked me what I was planning on getting her for Valentine's Day. I was thinking of gift wrapping the failed bearings and putting a bow on them.

Anyway, I'll post pictures when I find the damage. Later, Dave

Dave -

Then what would you plan on doing after you come to??

I hadn't thought about it but maybe I should be ready to run after she opens her 'present'.

Well the motor came out yesterday. I'm glad that I pulled the transmission because I think that in the long term it made the engine comeout easier. BTW, I left the exhuast on. I also unbolted the air shocks for the hood (and removed some small trim panels at the rear corners of the hood) to get the clearance needed to remove the engine.

I also pulled the oil pan to begin searching for the damage. Once the oilpan came off I was immediately greeted with lots of metal shavings.

I checked the rod bearings because that's where I was expecting the damage. The rod bearings were bad but there was no damage to the crank. That's where the good news ends unfortunately.

I pulled the rear main bearing cap this morning. The bearing had spun and eaten the crank and the main cap. At this point I don't even know if the bottom end of the motor is salvageable. I haven't looked at any of the other main bearings but I guess I've now got a pretty good baseline of the damage.

Sorry to read and see the bad news. If you need to look for parts or a replacement ....

http://www.car-part.com


I hope everything works out.

Bluto, That's an awesome link for finding an engine. I had come across a couple of engines (ebay, other sources) but nothing in Texas. Everything was in North or NE.

I haven't given up on the engine yet. I took the spun bearing and cap to my buddy's shop and his analysis was "Not that bad." He recommended taking the crank (which will need to be turned) and the caps down to a machine shop in S. Austin for thier analysis of the damage to main journal of motor. Hopefully the motor doesn't have to be align bored.

So at this point I am disassembling bottom end to get the crank out. I got the timing cover off last night but I haven't taken off the timing chain.

Questions:
1 - How is the main timing chain removed?
Answer - Remove Tension from Tension Assy. Remove center idler pully.
2 - How is tension placed back in the chain during reassembly?
Answer. Turn latching mechanism. Push the piston back in.
3 - Is there a specific tool for removing the main bearing caps? They're almost pressed into the block...
Answer - Nope. Manual says to pry out with screwdriver. Just don't bugger up mating surfaces.

Thanks,
Dave