Just a follow up to the broken fuse story.

Got the 140A Alt fuse to replace the broken one mentioned in the previous post. Cost $16 and change.

Tried to install it myself. Since this fuse is 140 amps, it's prongs are secured tightly to their contactors by hex head nuts on studs passing through holes in the prongs on the fuse.

Has anyone on this board tried to install a fuse in one of these vehicles, other than the fuses that slip in and out of friction contacts from the top?

I found the job of changing this fuse to be next to impossible! But, I didn't have any maintenance guide to help. I was trying to figure it out as I went.

The fuse box within the engine compartment has in it a black plastic matrix or framework for holding the various fuses. Lifting the framework to gain access to the 140A Alt fuse wasn't easy. There were two large cable bundles entering the fuse box on the fender side, and two small cables on the engine side. One of the cables on the engine side went to the top of the fuse holder block where it looped over a terminal stud secured with a hex nut. This wire seemed to be from the positive side of the battery, so after removing the positive terminal from the battery, I then removed this wire from the fuse holder block. Then I removed the plastic saddle clamp that held this positive wire to the side of the fuse holder block. After releasing all of the locking tabs around the fuse holder block with a screwdriver inserted into the right spots, I could pull it up out of the fuse box to try to gain access to the 140A Alt fuse.

This is where things got difficult. The two cable bundles entering the fuse box from the fender side were connected to the fuse holder block underneath. Pulling this assembly up was also pulling those cable bundles more taunt, and it was already tight with everything still in the fuse box. I could clear the top of the box on the engine side, but not on the fender side. I could get to and remove the hex nut on the south side of the fuse (away from the lights), but the one on the north side was buried in the middle of the fuse holder block. There was no way to get to it.

So, I gave up and put it all back together. That proved to be difficult as well. The fuse holder block near the fender seemed to be bent underneath and would not go back into the same position that it came from, which meant that it was going to be sticking up out of the fuse box making it impossibe to put the lid on. I finally managed to get it into the right spot by pulling it high with a pair of Channel-Lock pliars just over that corner with one hand and poking underneath it with a screwdriver with the other hand. I think I had the flashlight in my mouth.

So, HOW DOES ANYONE CHANGE THESE FUSES?

I actually soildered the broken fuse together in order to get my truck working reliably. That is not an acceptable solution, but I'm thinking that if it is this difficult, it will cost me $150 to get the fuse changed at a dealer! And, if the mechanic has as much trouble as I did just putting the box back together, it could be worse.

Wow it would appear to be a simple procedure. I looked at this fuse. It seems to be encased in a plastic holder which does require a special tool to grab the outer edges for removal. One could grab it slip-lock pliers, which I used to try to remove this. It seemed that I would need too much pressure and that I might break the plastic housing, so I stopped trying to remove it.

There is basically no room for the pliers to make contact with the fuse housing. So there must be a simple tool that one can get for this. However, since your housing is shattered from the previous owner, I would try to grab the metal bits with needle-nose vise grip pliers so something similar? Again not much room to work with in that cavity; so I can understand your dilemma. That fuse is directly connected to the battery, so it is always Hot even with the ignition off. Good luck.

I did not notice anything like this Maybe my 2003 model is different.

This fuse, the 140A Alt as labeled on the lid, is not removable from the top. One has to remove the entire fuse box components assembly to access the hex nuts, one from the side and one from inside the fuse box components assembly. The problem arises from the fact that the other hex nut is to the center of the assembly and therefore inaccessable.

There may be another retaining screw underneath the fuse box components assembly or some other release that I missed, but I could not seperate the fuse box components assembly into two sections to gain access to the opposite side of the fuse, even after removing the fuse box components assembly from the box. It is built in two sections, but they are locked together somehow.

In other words, there must be a trick to it.

Right now, I'm driving around with the two halves of this fuse soildered together; not an ideal situation.

That does not make any sense to me, for that fuse to be connected in a way that is different from any other device in the Relay/fuse center. I am almost 95% positive that it pops out just like any other fuse

Well, both actually. The dealer's parts guy showed me when I ordered the replacement fuse that it was a bolt on type. Then, when trying to change it, I managed to get at one (and only one) hex head nut. You can just barely see the other hex nut on the other side by taking out the spare fuse parked there and peeking through the hole.

Who knew changing a fuse could be such a PITA?

Gosh darn! What a job! If I may ask, how or why did this 140amp fuse blow anyways? Is this a common thing with our 2004 Runners? Should the rest of us members go ahead and purchase this fuse in anticipation that it will surely blow one day?

Perhaps a detail writeup with photos if possible would be in store for a job like this. Who knows when this 140 fuse may go and where it may leave you.... especially when on vacation or out on a trail somewhere.

Well, it all started just a few months ago, and it was just past Thanksgiving and, being full of turkey after having eaten a Thanksgiving dinner that just couldn't be beat (We had the Turducken from Louisiana this year) and thinking about hunting and fishin' and all kinds of groovy things, I was wanting a 4Runner.

So, I got on eBay and set up an email search where they email you when your particular search comes up with anything, and started getting all kinds of listings on eBay where someone was trying to get money for some kind'a 4Runner. I guess after looking at over a hundred or more 4Runners I was getting kinda bleary eyed, and they were all starting to look alike because there was not a one of them that I did not want to a greater or lesser degree.

Well I bought one. Here's the listing while it lasts.

It seemed like the ideal 4Runner for me. It was the Sport model with 4 wheel drive. It was white, which I like, and it had low miles and appeared to be in perfect shape.

But, it was in Baltimore, MD. I'm in the Detroit area.

I didn't let that stop me. I bid $22,500 and found the reserve to be higher. Then I bid $23,000. The reserve was still higher. So, I bid $23,500. The reserve was still in place, so I gave up. The auction ended, then the seller made me a second chance offer to buy it for $22,900 so I did.

I put up the $500 deposit through PayPal on November 27 and contacted the seller. That was on a Monday. I was ready to pick it up the following Saturday, but the seller was not going to be in town. I waited and booked a flight for the following Saturday which was December 9.

To make a longer story short, after flying to Baltimore and looking at this vehicle, I found a few peculiarities, but none of it was a deal breaker so I brought it home.

To sumarize, the factory stereo head unit had been replaced by one made for a Sienna, which didn't fit the dash very well. The cargo cover was gone. A strip of carpeted floorboard just behind the back seat was missing. The passenger side fender flare appears to have been removed or improperly installed. It's hanging by the doublesided tape. I didn't find out until after driving it for about a week that the 140A Alt fuse was smashed and the two sides were pounded together to make contact. Oh, and it was no longer just 22,500 miles driven as listed. It was slightly over 23,100 miles. And, I think there may be something wrong with the rear window heating element or mirror heaters. Pressing that button gets no light. I just haven't had time to look into it since I just discovered it.

My first attempt to deal with the fuse problem is covered here.

I'm either going to try it again this weekend, or take it to the dealer and take my lumps next week. I was just hoping that someone here knew what the trick is to swapping this puppy out.

The radio. I don't have a pic of the smashed fuse.

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Wow what a story. Well I wish you luck. Let us know how things turn out.

Can you shoot us a couple of side pics of the replacement fuse you bought?

Whew! It's cold out there.

It was dark too, so here's the best of the 4 taken.

If you look closely, you can see the top of the smashed one in its spot.

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Well those holes on the terminal lugs are not what I am use to. That could indicate that something goes thru those holes

In response to the rear window heater, did you normalize the rear window? Since you were working with the fuses and such, you might have disconnected the battery, which resets some settings. You will need to normalize the windows, which in turn, might make your rear window heater button work again? Just a suggestion
Good luck!

How to normalize/info:
http://toyota-4runner.org/showthread...ight=normalize

Obviously the previous owner had a different radio and maybe an amp setup. He probably pulled these parts out to sell it but his workmanship suggests to me that he may have blown the fuse while working with whatever sound system he had in there. You don't just blow that 140A main fuse in regular use. Are there any other obvious wiring anomalies? If there are, then I would take it to a stealer (let them do this fuse while they're at it) and have them put things back to stock. Wiring can be tricky. It will cost upfront but it will save you from having your rig go up in flames from some cowboy's work. Too many vehicles catch fire because of botched stereo installs.

Not that I know of yet.

Yes, if you've looked at the listing pics, you saw that he originally had the 4Runner JBL 6CD head unit in. Somewhere between taking his pictures and listing it for sale he swapped out the head unit for one from a Sienna. I'm not sure, but I think he may have put (or attempted to put) a navigation system in it.

I meant to normalize the back window this morning, but I didn't think about it on the way to work. I'll try it at lunch.

Thanks everyone for your kind words and suggestions.

Herb