Does anyone have any other ideas?.. Lights are still on and no ABS or VSC working. Damnit..we have snow!

I,ve just come from having a new key calibrated for my 2004 Toyota 4runner v8, and when I picked it up, the Vrsc trac, and vrsc off lights were on. The Service guy said ther was no way that making a new key could have caused that. If I'm reading the posts correctly, could they have altered the computer and caused the problem? Thanks. masteral

I appreciate this thread and the info. I am not very good with this stuff, however. I have read the OP over and over and still have no clue how to do this it what to do. I wanted to try it but don't even know where to begin. Would anyone be willing to explain this laymans terms?

Thanks for the great post. I would like to get one of those code readers so I can make sure my issue is not an isolated incident. Do you know where I can locate one for purchase? Any suggested brands or types?

I appreciate any assistance you could provide.

I don't discount anything that has been posted on this string but what worked for me as told on another page in this form was to make sure my gas cap was tight and then disconnect the battery for 10 minutes are so and reconnect the battery.... lights went off and that was 30k ago...cant tell you why but it worked for me.
Ez

I have a 2004 4runner with 180k miles - my VSC TRAC, VSC off, ABS and BRAKE lights come on intermittently. Also, my speedometer has started to stop working intermittently also (when speedometer stops - so does cruise control).
I took it to the dealer and there were no codes recorded for anything - the fuses were all ok. any ideas what could be going on?

My 2006 Limited has this issue -- ONLY VSC and VSC OFF lights are on, no others. Does this reset procedure work for 2006 also? I have to say it does seem like VSC is still working...found out last night in the snow.

So after talking with my buddies back at the shop, we tried the ZPC & nada. Still have the lights on, etc. The code coming up for it is C1234 - pretty much saying either the YRS is faulty, or there is a problem in the wiring. Honestly hoping for the wiring idea because it can be very easily fixed with a bit of soder and shrink wrap, and looking around the YRS new is over $800 and I CAN NOT pay that being 18 and headed to college. For ****s sake, I can't even afford a set of used tires and mine could blow at any time now (Sucks going into college, huh?) as well as a TB/WP. So if you have an extra one and want to let it go after I finish getting this diagnosing done for like $20 + shipping I'll love you forever

Can't stand this. It also WILL NOT accept a ZPC - do I need them to use an older scanner or something? PLEASE HELP! These lights are about to drive me insane and they've been on for about a year now.

I had to perform this procedure about 8 times before the lights finally went off. That was 2 months ago, and still no lights. Good Luck.

Something else to check is the wheel speed sensor harness I just changed my cv axel and must of stretched it or something abs vsc trac and vsc came on in my 2004. Purchased one from the stealership for 70 bucks easy to install took a couple turn on turn offs but everythings good now.

20034RunnerV84x2

Seems like thats your problem^^.I know alot of scan tools wont work I wasnt getting codes from the one at autozone it didnt even have an abs option . I forgot exsactly what code I got but it was wheel speed sensor and abs off a snap on chrome series im suprised noone else had the same problem as me the zpc didnt work for me at all but for those who cant figure out how to do it there is a youtube video for the 2004

Just wanted to thanks all the post on this thread. After getting the Ontario Drive Clean Emissions test at the Downtown Toyota dealership in Toronto both the VSC Trac VSC OFF lights were on. Took back to the dealership as i stated they were the ones that caused these lights to go on. Mentioned to them that i needed to get a Zero Point Calibration. Well i'm not sure there software is messed up but they proceeded to tell me my battery was low voltage and that i needed a new battery before they could do the calibration. I then watched them run the calibration again (well i think it was the test as was not able to see fully) and again couldn't reset the light and told me sorry nothing we could do its your problem. Knowing my battery was only 8 months old i knew they were trying to rip me off. I then followed the instructions from the service bulletin posted on this thread and using two paper clips i was able to perform the calibration.

Watch out for shady dealerships trying to get your money to fix this issue when the emissions test they ran in the first place caused the issue. Such an easy fix!

Love this forum.... Last Saturday I sent my wife to local oil change shop to have annual inspection done on my 04 4Runner. She returned with VSC TRAC and VSC OFF warning lights. After some deep breaths and calming myself down, I tried to let common sense take over. Surely this was caused by inspection process. After finding this thread, it seemed like the logical root cause, particularly since I know the inspection involves the testing facility plugging into the OBDII connector to check for stored trouble codes. I fabricated a couple of jumper wires and followed the procedure. Worked like a champ! Total time - 30 mins from start to finish. Pic of wires attached. I used "U" blade crimp connectors on end of some scrap wire I found in my electrical stuff. I cut off one side of the "U". They fit perfectly in the OBDII connector and held. Another successful fix. Did I mention I love this forum?

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If you never got your lights fixed and your symptoms are exactly like the original post describes, I'll tell you that the instructions on page 7 of the PDF file actually work.

1. Ensure the shift lever is in
“P” range.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
3. Using SST 09843–18040, repeat a
cycle of short and open between
terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 4 times
or more within 8 seconds. Verify that
the VSC indicator light is lit indicating
the recorded zero point is erased.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Be sure the terminals Ts and CG of
DLC3 are disconnected.
6. Turn the ignition switch ON.
7. Check that the VSC warning light
goes off about 15 seconds after the
ignition switch is turned ON.
8. After ensuring that the VSC warning
light remains OFF for 2 seconds, turn
the ignition switch OFF.
9. Connect the terminal Ts and CG of
DLC3 using SST 09843–18040.
10.Turn the ignition switch ON.
11. After turning the ignition switch ON,
check that the VSC warning light
is lit for about 4 seconds and then
starts quick blinking at
0.13 second intervals.
Ts
CG

What you need to know to make it easier to understand is that wherever it talks about the "SST 09843–18040" you can simply use speaker wire. (Actually, any two wires will do, but speaker wire seamed to make sense since they're already attached for simplicity) Take about 2 feet of speaker wire and strip about 1/2" of the sheath off the ends. Since speaker wires have two wires attached together you then split them apart so that there is enough slack to be able to insert them into the pin holes on the dock for the OBDII sensor under the left hand side of the driver side foot compartment (near your left shin).

When you look at the diagram in the PDF file it shows you the two pin holes in the dock that you will need to use. They are #14 and #4. Take one end of the speaker wire length that you have split apart and pulled the sheath off using wire strippers. I used a 14 gauge wire and needed to peal about 1/3 of the amount of wire strands away before twisting the rest of the wires together (so either a 16 or 18 gauge wire would probably work better). This made the thickness of the twisted end the right size to plug into pin holes 14 and 4 on the harness. Once you get them inserted into the harness try to be gentle so that you do not pull them out by accident as you are going through the rest of the steps.
Follow the rest of the steps in the instructions. When it tells you in step 3 to "short and open" multiple times, all you are doing is touching the other end of the two wires together and separating them multiple times within the 8 seconds.

In step 9 where it says to connect the terminals, all you need to do is twist the two wires on the other end together, completing the circuit between the #4 and #14 pins.

I hope this makes sense for you. I tried to upload a picture of the wires that I used, but this computer is giving me fits for some reason, so I'm not able to right now. If it turns out that you need more information, let me know and I'll download the pics off my phone that I took onto another computer and send them to you.

Good luck. Honestly, it took me longer to strip the wires from the speaker wire than it did to actually run through the whole diagnostic routine once it was set up.

If you never got your lights fixed and your symptoms are exactly like the original post describes, I'll tell you that the instructions on page 7 of the PDF file actually work.

1. Ensure the shift lever is in
“P” range.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
3. Using SST 09843–18040, repeat a
cycle of short and open between
terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 4 times
or more within 8 seconds. Verify that
the VSC indicator light is lit indicating
the recorded zero point is erased.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Be sure the terminals Ts and CG of
DLC3 are disconnected.
6. Turn the ignition switch ON.
7. Check that the VSC warning light
goes off about 15 seconds after the
ignition switch is turned ON.
8. After ensuring that the VSC warning
light remains OFF for 2 seconds, turn
the ignition switch OFF.
9. Connect the terminal Ts and CG of
DLC3 using SST 09843–18040.
10.Turn the ignition switch ON.
11. After turning the ignition switch ON,
check that the VSC warning light
is lit for about 4 seconds and then
starts quick blinking at
0.13 second intervals.
Ts
CG

What you need to know to make it easier to understand is that wherever it talks about the "SST 09843–18040" you can simply use speaker wire. (Actually, any two wires will do, but speaker wire seamed to make sense since they're already attached for simplicity) Take about 2 feet of speaker wire and strip about 1/2" of the sheath off the ends. Since speaker wires have two wires attached together you then split them apart so that there is enough slack to be able to insert them into the pin holes on the dock for the OBDII sensor under the left hand side of the driver side foot compartment (near your left shin).

When you look at the diagram in the PDF file it shows you the two pin holes in the dock that you will need to use. They are #14 and #4. Take one end of the speaker wire length that you have split apart and pulled the sheath off using wire strippers. I used a 14 gauge wire and needed to peal about 1/3 of the amount of wire strands away before twisting the rest of the wires together (so either a 16 or 18 gauge wire would probably work better). This made the thickness of the twisted end the right size to plug into pin holes 14 and 4 on the harness. Once you get them inserted into the harness try to be gentle so that you do not pull them out by accident as you are going through the rest of the steps.
Follow the rest of the steps in the instructions. When it tells you in step 3 to "short and open" multiple times, all you are doing is touching the other end of the two wires together and separating them multiple times within the 8 seconds.

In step 9 where it says to connect the terminals, all you need to do is twist the two wires on the other end together, completing the circuit between the #4 and #14 pins.

I hope this makes sense for you. I tried to upload a picture of the wires that I used, but this computer is giving me fits for some reason, so I'm not able to right now. If it turns out that you need more information, let me know and I'll download the pics off my phone that I took onto another computer and send them to you.

Good luck. Honestly, it took me longer to strip the wires from the speaker wire than it did to actually run through the whole diagnostic routine once it was set up.