We were talking about this on one of my posts, I am currently looking for my 1st 4runner and the used car guy tried telling me this was a problem cause the V8 was designed for the Tundra which has a bigger engine bay, in the 4Runner he said the engine bay was too small and they ruined the manifold...didn’t sound right to me so I brought it here.

Was informed that it is a known problem and MIGHT be covered under warrantee...
V8 Exaust Manifold Leak/Tick

CRAZY how much those 8 bolts are kicking my butt!! I got 3 of the upper nuts off with the 4th so stripped that I'll have to cut it off and am dreading getting under the truck to TRY to get to the other 4......I'm not not quitting just yet.

i did invest in a set of sockets from Sears that are supposed to be good for rusted/stripped nuts/bolts, we'll see how they do.

I couldn't see where it was leaking; but the manifold better be split wide open after all this hassle.

Yeah my 2005 V8 has a cracked passenger side one, I can clearly hear it for the first 5 minutes or so in the morning at low RPMS under load and it speeds up with RPMs. tick.......tick......tick.....tick...tick.tick.tic k.tick

I'm going to live with it for now, no emissions to deal with here.

Its so lame 07+ V8 4Runners have the option to atleast go with Thorley headers but not us. OEM is the only replacement.

I'm more likely to do a catback though and mask the sound instead of replacing the manifold. Maybe in spring if its still annoying me I'll take a crack at the manifold.

Keep us posted on your replacement progress. Best of luck to you.

I have 08 4runner V8 ONLY 14,000 miles and I hear this ticking noise, Im guessing this maybe the same noise veryone hearing. I bought mine used, No warrenty. will this be cover by Toyota or will I have to pay thanks. I'm guessing I will be paying for IT. I just bougth this 4runner last week.

Well it took me quite some time to finish this little project with vacations, work and shear laziness standing in my way but it's finally all back together.

I was really hoping for the "leaky" gasket but in the end it actually was cracked right where I expected based on pics posted by others. It does look like it can be welded but I chose to just end this fun and get a new one.

Here's a pic of the outside crack:

Attached Images

 

Well Done!

Any pointers for the removal of the old one? I will be going through this sometime soon I think.

Did you order new studs and nuts? Were you able to work around the motor mount? What tools did you use?

Thanks and once again nice job.

I'd like to say that I started this job thinking i had all the tools i would need.....WRONG!

The wound up investing in pneumatic tools (3/8" socket and 1/2" impact), neither of which really helpled me with the removal of the old manifold which had 70,000 miles and 5 very salty winters to help lock it in!!

What really helped and I mean this is an absolute, is go down to Sears and get yourself a set of those sockets meant just for rusty/stripped bolts. I forget what they are called but I can take a pic of them for you. I stripped my second nut with a standard 12 point socket (14mm). Once i had my new sockets; it would lock right in and I could then put the force needed to break them loose although most of them came out via studs because they were so rusted at the nut.

Another must is about 20" of extension, I used 1/2" because I measured over 130 ft/lbs of force to get these loose. CRAZY knuckle buster is you don't have that socket grab tight. Like I said, the the impact wrench did not help me as I needed the leverage of that long torque wrench.

I busted 2 Craftsman 3/8'' swivel joints in the process so I would recommend buying an impact grade swivel (that is a whole lota force to break the nuts/studs loose.

I did spray the nuts with WD-40 days before I was to work on it but that again really didn't help me as most broke at the stud behind the manifold.
Go ahead and spray the bolts on the pipe connection behind the manifold and then again on the Y pipe that connects the other manifold with the common pipe going to the muffler.


In the end; I ordered the following:
New manifold (of course)
New studs/nuts for the manifold and the exhaust pipe connections from the last CAT to the Y pipe.
New seals for the exhaust pipe connections (3 of them)
New bolts for the heat shield

AND......since the air pipe that connects to the top of the manifold had very rusty nuts which stripped on me, I would up getting my Dremel out with a 1" cutting wheel that somehow cut into the pipe. This is now repaired with some heat tape cause the new pipe won't be here until the end of Sept.

I appreciate all the info.

I'll be taking on this project in spring. Not looking forward to it but atleast I have some direction now.

Thanks again.

This is what I get to listen to anytime the exhaust has cooled off.

Exhaust leak ticking.

2005 V8 Toyota 4Runner cracked exhaust manifold ticking - YouTube

I have the exact same problem and sound. I went to Midas thinking that it was a hole in the muffler. iI expected to get some bad news in the range of $400-500; I was wrong. Then the guy comes back and says, "well it is much worse, it is a broken right manifold... parts alone was $1100 plus another $1000 on labor".


Note that this is ONE side only... so if 2 sides were damaged... you will be better in replacing a whole engine.

I am not familiar to what is required for a re-call but it is very common problen in the same exact location: translation: "manufacturers quality issue" . Which should be covered by a recall---Maybe a letter to the proper Goverment agencies should help getting this going.

What we need is numbers/ratio of affected engines.

Perhaps we should start a poll.

How many members have had this issue?

I'll start:
05SportV8 -1

Several Toyota dealers sell brand new OEM Toyota exhaust manifolds for between $600-$700. Then a gasket and new bolts will set you back like $50-$60 or so. Then you just have to figure out what your time is worth to you. Pay the dealer $1000 to install or spend 10-12 hours of your own time installing it yourself.

I will be saving myself the $1,000 and replacing mine in spring.

I'll definitely be posting a howto with lots of pictures.

Cruzmissle,

Could you confirm for me what the part number was on your new manifold? Also was it a once piece with the catalytic converter and did it have the big heavy loose flange 'brick' type thing that held the manifold on?

I'm a little confused on part numbers at the moment as I come up with this one.

I'll check the p/n tonight but the unit in the picture is exactly what I bought from Toyota (plus every nut, bolt and gasket in getting to it).

In addition, I had to purchase the air tube that is connected to the top left of the manifold (not sure what purpose it serves yet). I wound up cutting into it when cutting the bolt off.

I'd like to get my hands on a used / cracked manifold if you haven't recycled it yet.
A few of my reasons:
1) to see if there any ways to repair the original (ie weld a new flange on with a slightly larger radius and relieve the clamping flange, or ???
2) to see if there are performance improvements that can be made to header (ie clean up inside joints to allow better flow)
3) use its base geometry to design a new header.....

Mine has the same problem and probably the same level of difficulty in removal as cruzmissile but I'm willing to let it slide till it becomes an issue (ie won't pass an e-test), or I know I can eek out more HP from an upgrade....

anyways - let me know if you'd be willing to part with your cracked manifold - I'd like to get both sides eventually but the right side would be my starting point.

Mike

my truck is at the dealer right now, and from what I understand they're replacing at least one of the cats under the sulfur odor TSB. I also definitely have the 'tick', and they're looking to see if one or both manifolds need to be R&R. so if it's the upstream cat, from that pic, it looks like the cat/manifold are the same piece.


that is an 03-04 model. I know the newer V8s have 4 cats, because there are 2 of them (though are they just resonators? i doubt it) under the body before the Y-pipe. so maybe that's the catalytic they're replacing under the TSB. hopefully I find out today..