User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 01-20-2014, 02:59 PM #31
MackinawGR MackinawGR is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 1
MackinawGR is on a distinguished road
MackinawGR MackinawGR is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 1
MackinawGR is on a distinguished road
Exhaust Manifold

I have a 05 4Runner Sport, 4.7 V8, with 96K on it. I had it in for a malfunctioning moon roof, under warranty, which they replaced (had service issues with that too).

I had noticed the "ticking" sound but was told that was normal, of course after the warranty expired, they told me I had cracked exhaust manifolds on BOTH sides. Called dealer to find price was $750 ea. I am not pleased to have to pay for the replacement of these manifolds. I talked to a professional welder...told me welding/brazing is a crap shoot (would still need to be machined flat cause of warping)...could or couldn't work or would just band aid it for a while. Have to gotten a quote on the work, but was told that I might as well have the timing belt/water pump done while they had it. Am looking around 2K....not happy 4 Runner owner. Love the truck, not this issue and it seems to be VERY common.
MackinawGR is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-29-2016, 09:41 AM #32
ben550's Avatar
ben550 ben550 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Northeast
Posts: 851
ben550 is on a distinguished road
ben550 ben550 is offline
Member
ben550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Northeast
Posts: 851
ben550 is on a distinguished road
My V8 has developed the tick over the past year or so. It is getting more noticeable.

I called in for a quote today and got the following


Right Side:

Parts- $900
Labor- $ 317

Left Side:

Parts- $863
Labor- $210


1 year 12,000k mile warranty...


Total bill $2,300 plus tax for both left and right manifold installed...



I am considering buying the main parts online... can buy parts for

around 1200 online... from Toyota dealer and have local dealer install while retaining the warranty...

That would drop the price to under 2k...
__________________
'01 SR5 3.4 V6 4WD
'04 SR5 4.0 V6 2WD
'07 Tacoma 4.0 V6 4WD
'06 Sport 4.7 V8 4WD
'10 Limited 4.0 V6 4WD
ben550 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-29-2016, 09:58 AM #33
TOY2G TOY2G is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 3,004
Real Name: Nathan
TOY2G will become famous soon enough
TOY2G TOY2G is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 3,004
Real Name: Nathan
TOY2G will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducman View Post
I will be saving myself the $1,000 and replacing mine in spring.

I'll definitely be posting a howto with lots of pictures.
??? is it spring yet?
TOY2G is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2017, 12:32 AM #34
bradplaysguitar bradplaysguitar is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2
bradplaysguitar is on a distinguished road
bradplaysguitar bradplaysguitar is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2
bradplaysguitar is on a distinguished road
Passenger side exhaust manifold removal

Howdy ya'll.

After doing much debating with myself and being totally frustrated about the awful ticking sound and sulfur smell I've been experiencing for about a year or two that made me fall out of love with my 2005 4runner SR5 V8 VVTi, I finally decided to attempt replacing the manifolds myself. There is next to NO helpful information online on how to approach this, so I hope that I can shed some light from my experience.

I just finished removing my passenger side exhaust manifold. Truthfully, not as hard as I was anticipating, but still quite a tough challenge.

MUST HAVE TOOLS
- my battery powered Bosch high torque 18v impact drill was great for this job. YOU NEED A GOOD IMPACT WRENCH.

- 14mm impact 6 point socket (12 point will round your nuts). This would be the perfect socket for the whole job: SNAP ON 14 MM SEMI-DEEP IMPACT SWIVEL SOCKET

- Impact extensions 1/2" and 3/8" 20-24"

-Engine lift

- Die grinder with cutoff wheel or dremel (just incase you need to cut some bolts in tight spots

- 1/2" to 3/8" impact adapter

- 14mm nut extractor like THIS

- Torch

- PB Blaster

First I applied PB blaster to all nuts to be removed over the course of 2-3 days.

Looking into the wheel well, I was able to remove the farthest left cylinder top and bottom nuts, the second cylinder top nut, and the front top and bottom nuts. I would first hit it with a bunch of heat from the torch, and then hit it with PB Blaster. I used my 14mm extractor with a 22mm socket around that on an impact grade universal socket swivel with as long of an extension as I needed.

For the bottom of the second one, bottom of the third and the top of the third one, I had to undo the two engine mount bolts and using an engine hoist had to lift the passenger side of the engine up about two inches - just until the catalytic converter hit the firewall - watch your bumper on the hoist!

From there, I could very awkwardly get the extractor or my 14mm impact socket on the nut first, and then would add the my universal swivel, and then would extend it out to a convenient spot, one piece at a time. Building the adapters this way allowed me to feed any extensions in through tight spots to get it as straight as I could. My extractor was getting a bit blunt by the end but fortunately the 14mm impact socket had enough to grab.

The top one of the third cylinder behind the engine mount was the hardest. I had to used my 1/2" drive ratchet and got at it from the top.

The studs came out of all of them but two. The end of the studs were so rusted and wart-y looking that the nuts ended up just binding and the whole stud came out. I had to cut one of the engine mount bolts off to be able to lift the engine a bit. The exhaust flange bolts just after the catalytic converter either snapped or were cut. I snapped one of the heat shield nuts off in the manifold but the other three came off ok. The two bolts securing the air tube thing (what is this for anyways?) on the top of the manifold came off ok. I used a flat head to pry the tube flange apart to get it off those little studs. I had to hammer the cut bolts on the exhaust flange to separate that bit. Then the manifold was free!! After it came loose I had to play with the engine lift a bit to give me the clearance to slide it out. Once it was mostly free and there was a little weight on the O2 sensor wires, I had to lower the engine back down to get the clip. Right on top at the back of the clip just press down. The weight of the manifold made it easy to separate the connection. And then finally, it was free. The front flange was cracked pretty badly AND the first flange.

I'd say it took me (a total novice) max 8 hours to get it off. Toyota dealer ship here in Victoria, BC, Canada wanted nearly $3000 CAD for the OEM manifolds plus another $2000 CAD for labour (16hrs @ $120.00). I was going to go with the walker manifolds (got one off amazon for $216.00 US) and one off RockAuto ($550.00 CAD) but I ended up deciding to go with the Dough Thorley Headers. Ordered them today. Hopefully they fit up nice and my local muffler shop can do a good job welding on the catalytic converters. I figure for the time and effort, I'd rather have a bit of an upgrade rather than just replace it with the same, expensive parts.

I'll be doing the driver side over the next few days. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Not sure why the pictures below may not be working, just right click and select open in new tab - they should work then.









bradplaysguitar is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 08-06-2017, 09:10 PM #35
Chunderthunder Chunderthunder is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Pemberton, BC
Posts: 1
Chunderthunder is on a distinguished road
Chunderthunder Chunderthunder is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Pemberton, BC
Posts: 1
Chunderthunder is on a distinguished road
Thanks Brad and your guitar for posting up this process. This will help me lots in the coming weeks and I take my cracked manifolds off!

How did the install go with the Thorley headers? I am about to pull the trigger on the Thorley headers or Walker manifolds but for the $30 or so difference I might as well get the headers and spend a bit more again on welding those cats on and having a bit of an upgrade like you said. Did you ever contemplate removing those two forward cats? What did you conclude about the eventuality that those cats needs to be replaced in the future; buy a cheap manifold (I.e. Pacesetter) and cut and weld on cat from that manifold?

From what I can tell all aftermarket manifolds crack again at some point. Did you hear any different about the Walkers that made you almost go that route?

Any surprise customs charges after the headers came across the boarder?

Thanks from a fellow BC boy!
Chunderthunder is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 01:13 PM #36
toytwo's Avatar
toytwo toytwo is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Thunder Bay Ontario Canada
Posts: 17
toytwo is on a distinguished road
toytwo toytwo is offline
Junior Member
toytwo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Thunder Bay Ontario Canada
Posts: 17
toytwo is on a distinguished road
I have an '07 V8 with the passenger side manifold leak also so I will be doing this job myself in the near future. One thing I wanted to clarify is the 2nd catalytic converter under passenger side floor (the one closest to the muffler). Mine has no cat-mounted heat shield & the drawings in the parts diagrams I have seen do not show one. There are also no witness marks on it that would indicate there was one. There is one on the driver's side under-floor cat. I noticed this when I checked for a rattle which turned out to be the driver's side floor cat. Can anyone confirm that this is how they come from the factory? There are floor mounted heat shields for both sides but only the driver's side has a cat mounted shield. In looking at the 2 cats they are shaped a bit different with the driver's side better shaped to accept the shield/clamp. Also in the parts listings the heat shield parts for the driver's side are all available but nothing for the other side & it does specify LH side for those heat shield parts. Thanks.
__________________
1989 MR2 Supercharged
1986 Toyota Van LE 2wd
1988 Toyota Van LE 4X4
2007 4Runner V8 Limited
toytwo is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 10-07-2017, 08:15 PM #37
General Kornilov's Avatar
General Kornilov General Kornilov is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 42
Posts: 56
Real Name: Eric
General Kornilov is on a distinguished road
General Kornilov General Kornilov is offline
Member
General Kornilov's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 42
Posts: 56
Real Name: Eric
General Kornilov is on a distinguished road
I don't know why anyone would pay $1500-$2000 for a pair of OEM manifolds when you can get after market one for a 1/4 or 1/3 of the price. Even if you're not doing the work yourself, still saving $1000 on parts would be good. Plus, if the OEM ones were that good, they wouldn't be cracking at 100K miles.

Reminds me of when the leaf springs broke on my 96 Tacoma. OEM Toyota replacements were $800 EACH - $1600 for LEAF SPRINGS. I got a pair of Dormans off Rock Auto for something like $216 shipped to my door.

Im all for going with OEM replacement when necessary or feasible, but something are just dumb to overpay on.
__________________
2006 SR5 TR4 V8 4x4
General Kornilov is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-03-2019, 03:55 PM #38
Rene E Rene E is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Boston
Posts: 3
Real Name: Rene E
Rene E is on a distinguished road
Rene E Rene E is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Boston
Posts: 3
Real Name: Rene E
Rene E is on a distinguished road
I have a 2005 Limited V8, with a passenger side manifold leak. Here are the OEM parts I bought.

17140-50060 Exhaust manifold (1)
17173-50030 Manifold gasket (1)
17167-50180 Manifold cover (1)
90080-17187 Exhaust manifold nuts (8)
90080-12008 Exhaust manifold studs (8)
90080-11589 Manifold cover bolts (4)
17376-50010 Air pipe gasket (1)
90178-A0023 Air pipe nut (2)
89467-71020 Oxygen sensor (1)

Now, waiting for good weather...
Rene E is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 08-08-2019, 04:22 PM #39
fayraree fayraree is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NYC
Posts: 60
fayraree is on a distinguished road
fayraree fayraree is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NYC
Posts: 60
fayraree is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rene E View Post
I have a 2005 Limited V8, with a passenger side manifold leak. Here are the OEM parts I bought.

17140-50060 Exhaust manifold (1)
17173-50030 Manifold gasket (1)
17167-50180 Manifold cover (1)
90080-17187 Exhaust manifold nuts (8)
90080-12008 Exhaust manifold studs (8)
90080-11589 Manifold cover bolts (4)
17376-50010 Air pipe gasket (1)
90178-A0023 Air pipe nut (2)
89467-71020 Oxygen sensor (1)

Now, waiting for good weather...
So how much did all those parts cost? Everything squared away, ticking gone?

Just got this problem myself, hopefully I don’t have to bend over too badly! Curious about whether warranty would still be available for sub-80k mile V8s...
fayraree is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 05:26 PM #40
Daluvian Daluvian is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 15
Daluvian is on a distinguished road
Daluvian Daluvian is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 15
Daluvian is on a distinguished road
The V8 are notorious for this
Daluvian is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-23-2021, 12:17 PM #41
bwingnutt bwingnutt is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: San Diego. Ca
Posts: 15
bwingnutt is on a distinguished road
bwingnutt bwingnutt is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: San Diego. Ca
Posts: 15
bwingnutt is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by General Kornilov View Post
I don't know why anyone would pay $1500-$2000 for a pair of OEM manifolds when you can get after market one for a 1/4 or 1/3 of the price. Even if you're not doing the work yourself, still saving $1000 on parts would be good. Plus, if the OEM ones were that good, they wouldn't be cracking at 100K miles.

Reminds me of when the leaf springs broke on my 96 Tacoma. OEM Toyota replacements were $800 EACH - $1600 for LEAF SPRINGS. I got a pair of Dormans off Rock Auto for something like $216 shipped to my door.

Im all for going with OEM replacement when necessary or feasible, but something are just dumb to overpay on.
I looked and never saw one that was CARB certified for Calif emissions.
bwingnutt is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 07-18-2021, 11:56 AM #42
grislyatoms grislyatoms is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: WILMINGTON
Posts: 4
grislyatoms is on a distinguished road
grislyatoms grislyatoms is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: WILMINGTON
Posts: 4
grislyatoms is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rix View Post
2005 v8 says 33 ft-lbs.
yes this is it
grislyatoms is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-25-2021, 04:57 AM #43
2003V8LTD 2003V8LTD is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 86
2003V8LTD will become famous soon enough
2003V8LTD 2003V8LTD is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 86
2003V8LTD will become famous soon enough
I just had this done to my 2003 V8. I must say it really, really quieted the car down. I guess I had gotten used to how noisy it had become. The car has 109k miles and I would say the crack started being heard a few thousand miles ago. The crack appeared on the bend of the manifold next to the #2 cylinder (i.e., passenger side, toward the front of the car). It was a big, visible crack. On startup the car sounded like something from a trailer park, but it never fully quieted down even in operation.

So I determined to replace the cracked manifold. I know that some people advocate putting in the Thorley headers so that there's no chance of having cracks again. I'm not sure I could have found a set of Thorley headers, but even if I could have my mechanic advised against it. The magical thing that I enjoy about the V8 4Runner is the insane amount of twist available at very low rpms. It just wuffles along like a Rolls Royce! My mechanic said that owing to the lower back pressure, the headers would probably move peak torque up the rpm band. So, overall performance might indeed improve, but it would probably be at higher rpms, which would have taken away the whole point.

Anyhow I bit the bullet and bought an OEM Toyota manifold, gasket and stud kit. The best price I could find was $539.28 for everything, from Toyota Parts Center (they often seem to have the best prices, and the shipping's free).

The mechanic charged me $373.73 to carry out the work. This seemed like a good deal since those old studs were completely rusted in place after 18 New England winters and it took him a huge amount of effort to get everything apart and reassembled. Surprisingly, he was able to get the old O2 sensor out and it works fine so we just re-used it.

At any rate, the truck is way, wayyyyyyyy quieter now.




Quote:
Originally Posted by fayraree View Post
So how much did all those parts cost? Everything squared away, ticking gone?

Just got this problem myself, hopefully I donÂ’t have to bend over too badly! Curious about whether warranty would still be available for sub-80k mile V8s...

Last edited by 2003V8LTD; 09-25-2021 at 05:29 AM.
2003V8LTD is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-16-2022, 02:31 PM #44
Rave Rave is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 10
Rave is on a distinguished road
Rave Rave is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 10
Rave is on a distinguished road
I have 2005 V8 Sport edition; replaced cracked exhaust manifolds back in about 2015 with Doug Thorley "shortie headers" stainless steal, ceramic coated.(cost $759.00 US each). Summit Industries, 803 E. Parkridge Ave., Corona, Ca. 92879.
1-800-347-8664. email: [email protected]
Rave is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:33 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2020