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Old 06-27-2011, 08:33 PM #1
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10$ fix to the failed catalytic converter

Possible sticky? I didnt notice this on the list of common repairs, etc.


Well, I honestly cant say why my cats (both) went out a few months ago. Bad fuel, seafoam, octane booster, or just my driving, who knows?

Well, I got sick of the annoying light, and the decrease in gas mileage. After reading several other fixes, and alot of experimentation, I thought Id post soemthing on it. Heres what you can do to fix it, if both sides are failing/gone. If its only one side, you are lucky and only need to pay $5.

Go to advance auto parts . com, and order the Dorman - Help Spark Plug Non-foulers part no. 42009. They come 2 to a pack, and you'll combine them into one tube. If you order online, you can take the weekly discount of 20% off, or something (look on dealnews . com under advance auto). This will bring it to about $5. Order two of them, and you have 2 sets for each post-cat O2 sensor.

Take one of the two non-foulers, and place it in a vice grip/bench vice. If you have a drill press, this will be very easy. Otherwise, you need a very good electric drill, and a hardened steel/diamond tip 1/2 inch drill bit, or a really good metal-drilling bit. Drill a hole down the center of the non-fouler with the outside threads facing down. In other words, drill it from the top opening. Be sure to have someone use a really good lubricant or some oil while drilling. It will smoke and heat up fast.

Next, take the second non-fouler, and drill a 3/8th-7/16th hole the same way as the first. Screw in the first non fouler into the second, so the 1/2 inch hole is closest to the top, and the 3/8th hole is on the bottom. The 1/2 inch hole is room for the O2 sensor tip to fit inside the non-fouler, and the 3/8th hole is to allow a small amount of exhaust flow so the computer still reads properly.

Finally, place the car on a lift or jack the front up. Put it on jackstands about a foot higher than normal so you can maneuver underneath. If you are brave, do this while the exhaust is still at operating temperature, because the metal has expanded and the threads loosen easier. Otherwise, allow the pipe to cool completely, and soak it in PB blaster. Once you are ready, take an O2 socket, or a wrench of that size, and slowly unscrew the O2 sensor. It should need one good yank, and then you can unscrew it easily by hand (wear gloves if hot. I learned the hard way, lol). If it still feels snug after unscrewing it a bit, then its possible they are stripped. Stop, and screw it back in just firmly. Then, take it to get fixed (or fix it yourself, either way.).

After you removed the sensor, screw it into the tube/spacer of the 2 non-foulers. If it doesnt fit, make sure you have the 1/2 inch hole on the top, or try re-drilling it straighter. You want a pretty decent gap between the walls of the non fouler, and the sensor tip. Screw the sensor into the spacer at factory torque (I did about 25 ft lbs), and screw in the sensor/spacer assembly to the exhaust hole you took it out of. If it wont go in, dont force it. Try figuring out what is wrong (hopefully it wont be too bad). Torque the spacer into the exhaust to factory torque, and reattach the wiring harness to the plug.

Repeat the process to the other side (same exact) if you have 2 bad cats. After finishing, start the car, and go test it. Dont be alarmed if it starts hard or different, then idles very low (400-500 rpm). Give it 10 seconds, and the exhaust will be able to go in to the spacer, and trick the computer into thinking it is still reading flow. I had the problem of low idle for a long time, so thats how I determined to drill the second hole into the bottom spacer (the one that goes in the pipe). If it does still idle low, give it a few minutes of good driving to warm up, and allow the computer to adapt to the abnormal flow readings. It isnt enough to throw a code, but it still fools the computer to thinking the catalytic converter is still working. I did this mod 2 weeks ago, and still no check engine light to be found. This either means it works, or the catalytic converter self-diagnostic went out (not likely, since that would throw a code itself). Overall, very happy this works, and it saved me 500$ in new cats.

I will post pics of the spacer on the pipe, but its not really much to look at. Just 2 non-foulers stacked on the pipe with the O2 sensor.




****Disclaimer**** I am an ASE Certified technician, and I highly advise against doing this yourself. I take no responsibility for what hazards you may pose to your health, or damages to your vehicle. This is for educational purposes only that I took from experience, and advise against doing this at home. Take your car to a qualified mechanic, or only do this repair if you are mechanically competent, and can be responsible for damages to your vehicle.
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:15 AM #2
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:55 AM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MICA4R View Post
Back story/history on my vehicle.

i have installed the following NEW stuff in the last 2000 miles
-drivers pacesetter
-passenger side pacesetter
-NEW OEM RED BOX driver's front O2
-New Denso drivers rear o2
-New Denso pass front o2
-new Denso pass rear o2
-new felpro manifold gaskets
-16 new oem head bolts
-16 new oem head studs

install process in order of occurance

-installed upsteam drivers o2, code still there
-installed downstream drivers sensor, gone was sensor efficiency code
-installed driver's manifold, gone was the p0420 code
-20 miles after drivers' manifold install p0430 code,
-installed pass upstream
-installed pass downstream still p430 code
-installed pass manifold cleared p0430 code
-no codes for 500 miles, then sporatic p0430 code
-installed these $5 spacers, cleared p0430 and it has yet to come back!

Yes, so here i am posting pictures

follow his instructions in first post.

just to clarify, i had to read his post 2 times to see where he was going with it. but its all good info.

you need 3/8 bit and 1/2 bit
you need wd40 as a lubricant while drilling it out
you need a vice to hold the sucker down
you dont use a vice, you will not drill a perfect hole. you might damage the threads on the spacers.

YMMV,

Here are the spacers. from left to right, spacer with 3/8 hole, spacer with 1/2 hole, o2 sensor so you can see how big the end is and why you need to drill a 1/2" hole.



spacer with 1/2" hole drilled in it already on the o2 sensor




now the spacer with 3/8" hole on top of the other spacer and on top of the other sensor


sensor installed on passenger side rear aka bank 2 sensor 2


its been 200 miles since i did this. i did this @ 3/4 tank. i just filled up the tank 75 miles ago. i usually get the p0430 pop back on when i fill up for the next 30 miles. so i figured now i can report back with positive results. also my car used to get a sulfer smell, now it does not any more. smells sqeuaky clean!
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Old 02-14-2017, 04:23 PM #4
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Sorry to resurrect this thread after a long time

I am facing a similar problem of P0430. I am going to change bank 2 sensor 1 and 2 on my 2004 v8. The only thing I notice is the bad smell and very poor gas mileage.
Did your gas mileage improved after this mod?
Thanks in advance...
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Old 11-17-2018, 12:09 PM #5
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Old 12-29-2019, 01:39 PM #6
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Old 04-06-2020, 07:54 PM #7
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FYI to anyone with the P0420 and P0430 codes, this seems to have worked for me. I stacked two of the Dorman #42009 parts on each of the downstream O2 sensors. Cleared the code with my Scangauge II. So far so good, no pending codes read.
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Old 03-01-2022, 01:43 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biv117 View Post
FYI to anyone with the P0420 and P0430 codes, this seems to have worked for me. I stacked two of the Dorman #42009 parts on each of the downstream O2 sensors. Cleared the code with my Scangauge II. So far so good, no pending codes read.
Is there a reason you did two of the #42009 non foulers? I haven't seen or heard this done, so I'm curious.
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