We wimped out and stayed at Little America in Flagstaff. Kinda like camping - large grassy area, a wooded hiking area beyond and a pair of cement lined ponds.
Sorry - I'm no help
We went to Sedona by the Schnebly Hill Road, good views on the way down.
Not sure I would want to take it going up.
My old post --
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1723424-post4686.html
Search for other posts about Schnebly Hill road for more info and photos.