2004, 4.7 brake issues

[1sam16]

AuSeeker- this makes sense- and is hopeful news for my son who looks like he's going to have a heart attack every time we discover something new that we need to buy to get this car on the road… Lol. Although he shouldn't feel too bad… We promised to help with $1000 for his first car... he got this one for $900

 

[Jakeepoo3]

Fayetteville, Arkansas! I lived in Little Rock for four years When we first began to tear into this truck on Saturday- the brake master cylinder was completely empty- but the truck still had a fairly firm pedal. We added brake fluid and slowly drove it up and down the street. When we checked the brake fluid level there was not a noticeable difference. But this afternoon the levels were down and I noticed the small leak at a brake line junction point over the back of the fuel tank. I think this leak is the main brake issue. I'm hoping that once we figure out a way to safely fix this/these leaks. The alarm noise will go off and some of the Christmas tree of lights will turn off on the dash... here's for hoping Thank you

Yes!, Right on the edge of the spectacular Ozarks national forest where my runner and I live half our life!
Definitely need to fix the leak. Weird that when driving with the system pressurized not much fluid is lost.. Typically a low fluid level will only display and abs light. All the other lights indicate your VSC module has been disabled. Pulling the trouble codes would be helpful...

 

[AuSeeker]

To replace all the lines would you use a break line kit like this one?

Amazon.com

Something more ridged/heavy duty?

That tubing will work fine....BUT first the fittings are SAE thread, you need metric fittings, second is it's only "copper" coated, which means it's steel tubing with a thin coating of copper and can still rust if the copper get scratched, most people here like to use a copper/nickel tubing and stainless steel fittings and neither will never rust but cost about 1/3 to twice as much more.

Also you will still need the flaring tool...but if you check at some of the auto parts stores in your area many of them have a "tool loan" program where you pay the going price for a tool from their loan program and when you bring it back you get a full refund of your money, so it's free to borrow the tool in the end.

 

[1sam16]

That tubing will work fine....BUT first the fittings are SAE thread, you need metric fittings, second is it's only "copper" coated, which means it's steel tubing with a thin coating of copper and can still rust if the copper get scratched, most people here like to use a copper/nickel tubing and stainless steel fittings and neither will never rust but cost about 1/3 to twice as much more.

Also you will still need the flaring tool...but if you check at some of the auto parts stores in your area many of them have a "tool loan" program where you pay the going price for a tool from their loan program and when you bring it back you get a full refund of your money, so it's free to borrow the tool in the end.

great thoughts- will do. thank you