2006 4R's Oil change directions ?

kalakar

New member
I believe some posted (can't find it anymore) that he picked up his new 4R with all the stickers on it .. and saw that there was a sticker which stated that the "First Oil Change @ 1000 miles"

I have a 06 SE, but was not told by the service guy that there is supposed to be an oil change @1000 miles.


Can other 2006 owners confirm if this is a fact (Maybe things changed from 2005 to 2006?)

Also, I still do not have a repair manual ... can someone with a manual post directions for an oil change for this generation 4R's ?

much thanks.
 
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The sticker was a dealer sticker and I'm sure it wasn't from the factory. Just follow the recommendations in your owner's manual and you can't go wrong.


Not trying to be an a-hole but if you need directions to change the oil you would probably be better off letting someone else do it.

Directions:

1. Find oil pan

2. remove drain bolt (have pan ready to catch oil)

3. after oil is drained, replace drain bolt.

4. remove and replace oil filter.

5. pour recommended amount of oil into the oil fill location on top of engine. (recomended amount of oil can be found in your owner's manual)
 
Last edited:
kalakar said:
I believe some posted (can't find it anymore) that he picked up his new 4R with all the stickers on it .. and saw that there was a sticker which stated that the "First Oil Change @ 1000 miles"

I have a 06 SE, but was not told by the service guy that there is supposed to be an oil change @1000 miles.


Can other 2006 owners confirm if this is a fact (Maybe things changed from 2005 to 2006?)

Also, I still do not have a repair manual ... can someone with a manual post directions for an oil change for this generation 4R's ?

much thanks.

It was me who posted the picture of the sticker. Here it is again.
<img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c302/matoolie/122_2270-b.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com~original">

I am pretty sure it was not installed by the dealer because my vehicle was not prepped by the dealer. I have a connection with the dealer where it was delivered and they did not do any prep on the vehicle per my request. It still had every piece of plastic inside, windows, AND on the wheels. They only removed the plastic on the body panels. I will be changing my oil at 1000 miles.
 
Doesn't matter where the sticker came from or who put it there, it would be wise to change it @1000 mi anyway.
If not for any reason other than piece of mind.
 
Hitman said:
If the 1,000 mile oil change is free, then it might be a good idea. Otherwise, it's simply a waste of money.

New engines are very tight and generate a lot more heat than normal, probably not enough to degrade the oil significantly.
But, an oil change is cheap insurance, I'll stick with the first oil change at 1K.
 
Do yourself and the 4Runner a favor and change the oil/filter at 1000 to 2000 miles. Then start using a pure synthetic, brand of your choice. I would recommend Amsoil or Mobil 1. I also recommend replacing the two diffs and transfer case oils with synthetic. Start the best mid-sized SUV with the best protection.

Koz
 
Re: Re: Re: 2006 4R's Oil change directions ?

Hitman said:
The dealer did put that static sticker there.... it is not from the factory. I know because I used to work at a Toyota dealer and we always put those on new vehicles to get the customer back for a complimentary oil change on their new vehicle. I guess it builds a good rapport with new customers.

Toyota may not recommend a 1000 mile first oil change, but the dealers sure do....

BTW, it only takes 2 seconds to slap the static sticker there....even if the vehicle is not prepped.

yep i was just looking over my papers for my car today, and i noticed the dealer prep checklist. That was the last thing on the list. under "G. Final inspection and cleaning" it is number 9, "Place oil change sticker on inside of windshield, top left corner" mine is not checked off tho
 
Under the engine there is a metal skid plate. There is a plastic piece that you have to take out, reach up and around it to push the tabs out. Be careful not to burn yourself on the egine. Then you'll be able to access the oil drain plug. It looked wierd to me because there was no rubber O-ring on bolt , but oh well. Drain and refill. Filter is even easier, right under the hood..if you can get the SOB off. I couldn't get mine off even with a filter wrench, I was already denting the darn thing. I'll probably try another type of filter wrench soon.
 
Hitman said:
If you really want to do yourself a favor, you'll be sure that you engine is fully broken-in before switching to full synthetic oil.

Typically, one or two thousand miles is just not enough. Some people here just cannot comprehend that though....

Why would you be doing yourself a favor waiting? Many high performance manufacturers today use synthetic from the very beginning. At what point do you know that your engine is fully broken in? If not at 1000 or 2000 then when? Maybe at 4327? It only makes sense to me to switch immediately...like as soon as you roll off the lot. Not trying to be sarcastic or directly targeted at you. I just see no sense other than someone trying to save money to wait on switching over. I am assuming that many assume that using a synthetic will prevent proper break in on new engines today. So far I (but I am no expert) have broken in all my vehicles (about 8 so far), motorcycles, atvs, tractors, etc. in with synthetic from day 1 with great results.
 
Hitman said:
If you feel that your engine is fully broken-in from day one, then go right ahead and make the switch.

I don't feel that my engine is fully broken-in for at least 5000 miles.

Opinions are like.... well, you know;):

LOL...you are quite right about opinions! But seriously I am asking from a legit point of view...as I feel that it is completely fine to put in synthetic from day 1 but I would want more information why you feel otherwise. I hear a lot of people say that synthetics prevent proper break in...but I have (on purpose) gone against this train of thought to see what would happen otherwise. Nothing negative has happened and I am left wondering what is the difference in breaking in a high performance engine and a Toyota engine? You know what I mean? I have a tendancy to question those (typically dealers/ retailers, etc.) when they encourage me to follow some regimen when they cannot produce any viable or solid reason to do so. I PROMISE I don't want to start a debate...just would like solid info as to why some believe it is better to break in with reg oil vs synthetic. So far when pulling the motorcycle engines apart those that were broken in with 100% synthetics vs. the Honda petro oils the engines with synthetic appeared to be "cleaner" and did indeed have less wear. I guess the only legit way to go about this is to test this theory is in a controlled environment where there would be no variables between the two engines except for the oil.
 
Hitman said:
If you feel that your engine is fully broken-in from day one, then go right ahead and make the switch.

I don't feel that my engine is fully broken-in for at least 5000 miles.

Opinions are like.... well, you know;):

Also it's not that I feel that my engine is "broken in" right from the get go. I know that it isn't. My question (to anyone that has solid reasons) is why can't we break it in with synthetics. Maybe this whole break in with petroleum is a myth...just like you must change your oil every 3000 miles. This was drilled into consumers heads for a long time and I am left wondering if the break in part is leftover too.
 
If you really want to do yourself a favor, you'll be sure that you engine is fully broken-in before switching to full synthetic oil.

I wanted to know when the rings had completely seated in my new V8 4Runner. So, at just under 200 miles (that's right, two hundred miles) I did a leak down test and it passed. The engine was broken in. I changed the oil to synthetic, but I drove my break in schedule until two thousand miles, just to be sure. After all, it's my vehicle. I wanted that original oil and any assembly stuff and particles out. Today's motors are built so well that driving easy for 2k miles, like I did, varing the speed and never driving at constand speeds on the freeway, gradually speeding up to 70mph and gradually slowing down and doing it all over again, may not be necessary. I did it, and would do it again, and it made me feel better for doing it.

And here's a thought about that first oil change. If you do a uoa and find anything other than standard oil, your finding assembly lube. Here's another thought. You have been told things like change your oil every 5k miles or six months. When your engine is manufacturered, there might a delay of a few days, weeks or months until it gets installed in your car. Then there might be a delay of some months until the your car gets shipped, trucked and delivered to the dealership. Again there might be a delay until you buy the car. And the driving your car gets, waiting for you, short run, never warmed up and maybe driven by a salesperson or shopper in a way you never would, that is, foot to the floor on a dead cold engine, then as soon as it starts to warm up, park it, waiting for the next test drive. This could be called severe service. And this could be happening to a vehicle that is older than 6 months. Your car could, technically be overdue for an oil change the day you drive it home. If you count your car's age from the delivery date you might want to reconsider. I do software for fleet maintenance and for the year 2004, seventeen percent of the new fleet purchases where vehicles with a build date that indicated they were over a year old on the first day of service. Tracking the engine back would age the vehicle a little more.

Engines don't have break-in oil. At least change the oil, using conventional oil, as soon as you drive home. If you are going to use synthetic, wait about 2k miles. If you trade vehicles every couple of years, forget the whole thing.
 
no1sportz said:
Also it's not that I feel that my engine is "broken in" right from the get go. I know that it isn't. My question (to anyone that has solid reasons) is why can't we break it in with synthetics. Maybe this whole break in with petroleum is a myth...just like you must change your oil every 3000 miles. This was drilled into consumers heads for a long time and I am left wondering if the break in part is leftover too.

I agree with you but to answer your question; the reason you should use dino for break-in is because the first oil change should be done early, so why would you use oil that cost 2/3 times more. The early change is better because the break-in debris and contaminants should be removed. I personally think any time after 1K miles is good.

Koz
 
Koz said:
I agree with you but to answer your question; the reason you should use dino for break-in is because the first oil change should be done early, so why would you use oil that cost 2/3 times more. The early change is better because the break-in debris and contaminants should be removed. I personally think any time after 1K miles is good.

Koz

Thanks Koz. I think so far that is the most reasonable answer I have ever gotten...price. So many people say to use dino for break in but can never explain why it is better than synthetic. I can completely understand why some would choose otherwise due to saving a little money. For me I buy so much Amsoil in bulk it is just easier (convenience) to change over immediately.
 
I won't get into the whole syn oil is better than regular oil. i have a gmc truck that has been faithfully maintained by *me* every 3k using regular oil since it was new. now at 170k, the engine is still clean (no sludge) and oil samples reveal nothing out of the ordinary. Same story for my 2000 volvo s80 except I used mobil 1 in it after 2000 miles. 87k later...no differences between it and the gmc. I strongly believe in regularly changing the oil. change early and change often! my preference has been castrol.

Now I just bought my 06 4runner and at 25 miles i swapped out the filter, at ~350 miles, i changed the oil and filter and i did it again at ~750 miles. oil analysis on the first filter change at 50 miles and the oil/filter change at ~350 miles did show "some" particulates. the second oil change analysis at ~750 miles showed nothing out of the norm.

I've been a mechanic way to long for anyone to convince me otherwise regarding changing the oil often like i have during the break-in. Now in my line of work, we use synthetic oil in jet engines. I know they work and work well. but my experience with my vehicles shows me it is not needed if you maintain strict maintenance intervals. i know... everyone has an opinion. but it's my $0.02 for others to enjoy. :)
 
jlboers said:
I won't get into the whole syn oil is better than regular oil. i have a gmc truck that has been faithfully maintained by *me* every 3k using regular oil since it was new. now at 170k, the engine is still clean (no sludge) and oil samples reveal nothing out of the ordinary. Same story for my 2000 volvo s80 except I used mobil 1 in it after 2000 miles. 87k later...no differences between it and the gmc. I strongly believe in regularly changing the oil. change early and change often! my preference has been castrol.

Now I just bought my 06 4runner and at 25 miles i swapped out the filter, at ~350 miles, i changed the oil and filter and i did it again at ~750 miles. oil analysis on the first filter change at 50 miles and the oil/filter change at ~350 miles did show "some" particulates. the second oil change analysis at ~750 miles showed nothing out of the norm.

I've been a mechanic way to long for anyone to convince me otherwise regarding changing the oil often like i have during the break-in. Now in my line of work, we use synthetic oil in jet engines. I know they work and work well. but my experience with my vehicles shows me it is not needed if you maintain strict maintenance intervals. i know... everyone has an opinion. but it's my $0.02 for others to enjoy. :)

I agree that synthetic is OVERKILL and if you change your (dino) oil at 3K miles your engine could last a very long time. Some people use synthetic because they what to extend their change intervals, some people need a better flowing oil at lower temperatures, some people just what to know they are putting the best oil available in their vehicle. There are many good/valid reasons to use synthetic oils but the fact is lab testing and comparisons have proven that synthetic oil is far superior to dino in all aspects, except price. Most people are willing to pay the extra cost to get that warm fuzzy feeling from using the best!

Koz
 

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