2008 rear parking brakes

actrak

New member
Hey Guys,

Are there any tips or more to the point specialized tools to deal with the springs that hold on the parking brake pads that are inside the hub flange on the rear wheels? Last week I replaced the discs and rotors on my rear axle and one spring on each side basically fell/came off. I fixed them but it was a PITA given so little room to work with. I noticed that there is one section of the flange that you can rotate to that will give you a little more room to work with but it still wasn't a enough to make the job bearable. Just thought someone here might have some tips.
 
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Hey Guys,

Are there any tips or more to the point specialized tools to deal with the springs that hold on the parking brake pads that are inside the hub flange on the rear wheels? Last week I replaced the discs and rotors on my rear axle and one spring on each side basically fell/came off. I fixed them but it was a PITA given so little room to work with. I noticed that there is one section of the flange that you can rotate to that will give you a little more room to work with but it still wasn't a enough to make the job bearable. Just thought someone here might have some tips.

I haven't messed with the parking brakes but it's a drum brake setup. Therefore I'd think the standard drum brake tools would work.
 
From my searches, it sounds a bit tight inside there because of how small it is and because the axle is there. I'll let y'all know next weekend, got too lazy today lol went to the beach instead.
 
I used a long, thin, and slightly deformed set of needle nose pliers that fit perfect into the recess of the brake shoe retainer. These pliers were damaged quite some time ago (the end is kind of flared out) but worked perfect for this. I used various picks to attach the bottom spring that goes to each shoe. Kind of a pain in the arse but not the worst thing I've worked on.
 
The best way I have found to get the spring retainer on is to use needle nose vise grips, some electrical tape and a small deep well socket.

I tape the bottom spring seat ring/retainer to the shoe leaving extra tape to the side so it can be pulled off later. Try not to get any tape under the spring itself just tape the retainer.

Then I taped the top seat ring to the spring covering about half the spring and again leaving extra tape so it can be pulled off later.

Install the spring and top seat ring into position with the pin.

Next, get a deep well socket that is small enough to go through the hole in the axle flange so you can depress the spring. Depress the spring and attach the needle nose vise grips to the top seat ring. Position the vise grips so you will be able to rotate them 90 degrees.

Looking thru the axle flange hole line up the pin so that it will slide into the top seat ring. Now, without moving anything use the socket to depress the spring as you hold the back side of the pin and rotate the vise grips. I was able to do this by myself but an extra hand here would be great.

Now just pull the tape. It took me about 20 minutes trying different things before trying it this way. On the other springs it only took about 5 minutes each.

I used some plastic clamps to hold the shoes as i worked and expanded the shoes out with the adjuster to give a little more room. Practice with the needle nose vise grips and the top seat ring to get the adjustment right. Also, the seat ring can't be cocked it has to set in the vise grips straight and even.
 
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