2008 - V8 T4R Sport Edition - To good to be true??

[JCTanner]

Hello.

So I did the unthinkable about 7 years ago and traded my 1999 T4R SR5 in for a Ford Focus. https://t4r-1351852ontarioin.netdna-ssl.com/images/smilies/peep.gif
I know.....huge mistake. But now Ford is buying my 2013 back (on 2/29) and planning to replace it with a 4th Gen.

I found a 2008 T4R Sport Edition and the ~$8,000 price seems too good to be true. Test drove it today. It felt great to sit back behind the wheel again. And it drove great. Plenty of power. V8 was nearly silent.

Here's the current status of the 2008 T4R SE:

201,521 Miles on the odometer. All in the Midwest (N. Illinois).
Timing belt was replaced @ 199,000 Miles a couple months ago. AISIN on the Fan Shroud.
There is some rust on the frame (Mid-west car). But everything felt solid. Appears to be just surface rust.
The Carfax does show 3 accidents. But nothing major. Airbags never deployed. Panels all lined up perfectly. And didn't see anything obvious. Frame seemed straight. Drove straight.
Verified 4-Lo works. Could hear the actuator engaged when activated in Neutral.
Rear window works perfectly.
Braking was sufficient. No pulling L or R when braking hard.
V8 was very quiet. No CEL. (Will try and get it scanned for stored codes)

There IS a chirping-like sound coming from the drive train when placed in Drive when stopped. No chirping when in P, R, or N. And doesn't chirp when brake is released/rolling/accelerating. I asked the dealer to check into it. Any ideas what this might be?

Its been on the lot for 2 months.

What could I be missing. Seems like a great deal.
What else should I be checking?

I'll post pictures of the underside shortly.

Thanks!

JT

 

[JCTanner]

Driver Side:

Driver Side:

Front:

Rear Door Latch:

 

[joevan]

Rust don't look too bad.The new stuff they spray on the road now is really eating stuff up here in CT.
Seeing 5-6 year old cars with holes in body panels.

 

[Syr4RinNC]

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If the timing belt has been taken care of, I think you've looked it over thoroughly.

Personally about 8k is what I would pay. I think the car is probably a little lower than other similar cars due to the accidents on the report.

The rust is comparable to my 2008. Little issues are bound to come up from time to time, but otherwise I imagine you'll get at least 5 years out of it if not longer. My thought on all this is what is your expectation for how long youd like to keep it and how much money are you willing to put into to it to get it there

I don't have any clue about the chirp. I know that often the drive shafts need to be greased and cared for, but thats usually more of a clunk or vibration

best of luck

 

[MxwlT4R99]

Places you could additionally check for rust...

• Rear hitch
• Radiator Support Bracket (under the rad)

Rear hitch is a good place to check on most cars, from what I've seen it's one of the fastest places to get rusty. The radiator support bracket seems to be a problem area on 4th gen 4runners in particular.

However, something to keep in mind is the time it's been on the lot. You can probably get ~$1k knocked off since the dealer is likely getting ready for wholesaling the car at auction, anyway. If you're paying cash, probably more. Very few lots keep cars past 90 days, and many get rid of cars that are sitting for more than 30 days.

Good luck! I'm in the market as well for a 'unicorn' V8 4th gen, post-facelift. :flypig: I have similar woes after selling my 3rd gen a few years back.

 

[JCTanner]

Places you could additionally check for rust...

• Rear hitch
• Radiator Support Bracket (under the rad)

Rear hitch is a good place to check on most cars, from what I've seen it's one of the fastest places to get rusty. The radiator support bracket seems to be a problem area on 4th gen 4runners in particular.

I'll take a closer look next time I'm @ the dealer. Didn't know about the rad support being a problem area. Good to know.

However, something to keep in mind is the time it's been on the lot. You can probably get ~$1k knocked off since the dealer is likely getting ready for wholesaling the car at auction, anyway. If you're paying cash, probably more. Very few lots keep cars past 90 days, and many get rid of cars that are sitting for more than 30 days.

Great advice! I think I'm going to offer $7,000 out the door and see what they come back with. Plus I'm paying cash.

There are also some issues with the center console/armrest. The flip ("burger") tray popped off when I opened it. And the cubby-holder door by the shifter is also damaged. Didn't think much of it thinking there would be an easy fix; but can't find much in the forums where folks had to fix these pieces.

 

[JCTanner]

Also; anyone seen one of these gizmos on their rig??

Never seen this before. And didn't see one on the 2005 V6 I test drove yesterday.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Also; anyone seen one of these gizmos on their rig??

Never seen this before. And didn't see one on the 2005 V6 I test drove yesterday.

It's an electrical device that supposedly prevents rust. Obviously those don't work too well. Aftermarket.

 

[eleven14]

Also; anyone seen one of these gizmos on their rig??

Never seen this before. And didn't see one on the 2005 V6 I test drove yesterday.

I like the ironic rust patch directly above the "corrosion control module".

 

[Monty87ls]

I'll take a closer look next time I'm @ the dealer. Didn't know about the rad support being a problem area. Good to know.



Great advice! I think I'm going to offer $7,000 out the door and see what they come back with. Plus I'm paying cash.

There are also some issues with the center console/armrest. The flip ("burger") tray popped off when I opened it. And the cubby-holder door by the shifter is also damaged. Didn't think much of it thinking there would be an easy fix; but can't find much in the forums where folks had to fix these pieces.

Little tip from someone who worked in dealers and knows the tricks.. Paying cash doesn't appeal to them. They make less money on cash customers.
You come in and go with whatever finance company they approve you for they will make more off you that way. Dealers have deals with banks and make money on the back end. A point or 2 every month doesn't sound like much but over the life of a loan they make a lot more off you. When financing its best to go in with your own financing ahead of time. Can always let them check for you but if you know your bank is giving you 3% and they best they can do is 5% you know better.

But tricks can go both ways.

Example: When getting my future ex wifes car in 2018 we had pre approval at 3.5% from capital one (awesome to deal with BTW) and the price on the car was $2500 off MSRP. Dealer said if we go with their bank it will be $6000 off MSRP... Sounds great until you see that the rate went up to 6.89%. Magically the payment stays the same because it has a ballon payment at the end of the loan.
Did I take their deal? Absolutely and then as soon as I had my title in a few weeks I refinanced at my bank!!

If it were me id see what price they are willing to offer and let them finance then just pay the car off after. Might save more that way.

 

[V8Man]

Here is a better deal

Local craigslist, i'm not related or know nothing about the 4Runner.
97,989 miles on a 2004 V8 AWD for $9,800.
If it's a true Oklahoma car it will not have any rust either.

2004 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4X4 LIMITED - cars & trucks - by dealer -...

 

[JCTanner]

But tricks can go both ways.

Example: When getting my future ex wifes car in 2018 we had pre approval at 3.5% from capital one (awesome to deal with BTW) and the price on the car was $2500 off MSRP. Dealer said if we go with their bank it will be $6000 off MSRP... Sounds great until you see that the rate went up to 6.89%. Magically the payment stays the same because it has a ballon payment at the end of the loan.
Did I take their deal? Absolutely and then as soon as I had my title in a few weeks I refinanced at my bank!!

If it were me id see what price they are willing to offer and let them finance then just pay the car off after. Might save more that way.

Thanks for the advice Monty!

I can see how they'd prefer to finance in house. Makes sense.

Question: How did you get your title in a few weeks? If you still had a balance with the finance company? When I financed my 2013 Ford, I didn't get the title till the loan was paid in full.

I think I'm going to offer $6700 and see what they come back with. So far I've seen 5 T4R's and the 2008 V8 Sport has been the best deal. The other 4 were all V6. And a couple were really clean and had a FAIR price. And a couple were complete garbage and overpriced. One Sales manager came down from $6500 to $4,700 after I told him the issues I found (codes P0420 & P0420 & seized FR Caliper).