Alternator / P0420 P0430 related??

Tanker Yanker

New member
Sorry to write a book here, but I've been reading through the forums, researching this issue, and my particular problem doesn't seem to match up with what other members describe....well, not entirely anyway.

A month ago the battery light came on while driving to town. On the highway, returning home, we started losing guages and lights (speedo, dash lights....). Lost power, hit the off-ramp, car died. To get it home, I had mom bring me a new battery from AutoZone. Swapped batteries, light still on, made it home though. That night, I tore it down to pull the alternator, and put the new battery on the charger. Next morning, I went to the dealer and bought the $460 reman Denzo, installed it, buttoned up the radiator and air box / vacuum lines....hit the key, car fired and immediately died. Waited a couple seconds, hit the key, popped right off.

All was perfect, until very next afternoon. Wife calls and says CEL is on and the other couple of VSC lights too. Had dealer read codes....P0420 and P0430. He says bad cats. I bought Denzo downstream 02 sensors and replaced them first....$96 on RockAuto, hoping to avoid cat replacement. Codes will clear for a couple hours, but always return.

While the lights are off, you can drive the piss out of this thing and it runs like a scalded dog. Once the light returns, it runs good enough to fool anybody who never drove it before, but it's weaker.

Is it really possible that both cats went out together, and the day after I replaced the alternator?? I am 100% certain that all vacuum / air lines are placed correctly, tight, and in good condition. I've had this apart before to do the timing belt and waterpump....that was at 90k and we just hit 100k when the alternator died. My question is, could the alternator have caused an electrical fault in the ECU or elsewhere....?? Is there a connection or is it coincidence? Only thing else noteworthy here is I've noticed a very subtle exaust tick, so I'm sure manifolds or Thorley's are in my near future anyway. I just want to rule out everything electrical before I drop $2000 into the exhaust system, especially if there is an underlying cause to begin with.

Thanks for the help....as I said before, I gathered enough info off this board to do the timing belt and didn't have to ask any questions....this issue isn't nearly as cut and dry though and I really don't know how to zero in on the cure.
 
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Unfortunately I struggled with the same thing when I first got my '04 sport. CEL/VSC TRAC OFF lights all came on at 115k. Replaced O2 sensors and reset codes. But after approx 2 weeks the lights would come back on. Same codes you were getting. My mechanic did a detailed write up and tested EVERYTHING
for me. What it came down to was that my cats (bank 1&2) were not operating correctly. Apparently the temperature fluctuations within the cats was not high enough. I'd post the write up But I'm out of town for the weekend and don't have it with me. I put off the switch because I wanted to be absolutely sure I needed to replace them. Anyway, bit the bullet and replaced both cats. No problems the last 2000 miles. Hope that's not your case, but don't rule it out. It cost me approx $1500 for two OEM Toyota cats and install. Best of luck to you.
 
Thanks SkyGuy41, this helps actually, because I haven't found very many members who have verified cat replacement to eliminate the codes.
 
Can anyone else chime in as to whether or not new cats resolved the P0420 / P0430 codes? I'm fixing to order Doug Thorley's and Flowmaster cats to have welded up as replacements to the stock setup. I have a slight exhaust tick and both bank efficiency codes....new Denzo downstream O2 sensors didn't eliminate the codes. Just looking for some experience to guide me in the right direction....thanks.
 
Can anyone else chime in as to whether or not new cats resolved the P0420 / P0430 codes? I'm fixing to order Doug Thorley's and Flowmaster cats to have welded up as replacements to the stock setup. I have a slight exhaust tick and both bank efficiency codes....new Denzo downstream O2 sensors didn't eliminate the codes. Just looking for some experience to guide me in the right direction....thanks.

Not my 06 yet, but my 1999 cats got destroyed when coolant found it's way into the exhaust via a cracked head gasket.

P0420 codes for a couple years while I avoided the inevitable.

Once the cats were replaced (can't do one, gotta do both) and a new muffler just because the original one had 265,000 miles on it, never had a code problem ever again.

P0420 is "Insufficient Catalyst Bank X"

O2 sensors did nothing to solve the problem on my 4runner.
 
Thank you for the input 4RunAmok....I suppose I'll be ordering headers and cats Friday. Wish me luck on the install!! I may need to take a week off, I've read this is a real bear of a job....
 
Update:

Sorry to revive a three year old post, but I missed a pm from only1corky in February (my sincere apologies to Corky!) asking me what I did to fix this issue. I found a product from Underdog Racing Development, called a rear O2 simulator. It requires all four O2 sensors to be functioning correctly, and you just plug this aftermarket harness in between the rear O2 sensors and the vehicle leads that normally connect to the sensors. It conditions the signals from the rear O2 sensors to give the ecm the signal it sees from fully-functional cats. They market this for offroad use only, but I don't have to pass emissions in SW MO, so this has served me well for three years. I just looked at the URD site to grab a part #, and could only find the 1GR-FE variety....not sure why the 2UZ-FE harness isn't available. Anyway, sorry to member only1corky for the delayed response....I hope you were able to fix your Runner! You have my # in a pm if needed!

Curtis
 
Sorry to revive a three year old post, but I missed a pm from only1corky in February (my sincere apologies to Corky!) asking me what I did to fix this issue. I found a product from Underdog Racing Development, called a rear O2 simulator. It requires all four O2 sensors to be functioning correctly, and you just plug this aftermarket harness in between the rear O2 sensors and the vehicle leads that normally connect to the sensors. It conditions the signals from the rear O2 sensors to give the ecm the signal it sees from fully-functional cats. They market this for offroad use only, but I don't have to pass emissions in SW MO, so this has served me well for three years. I just looked at the URD site to grab a part #, and could only find the 1GR-FE variety....not sure why the 2UZ-FE harness isn't available. Anyway, sorry to member only1corky for the delayed response....I hope you were able to fix your Runner! You have my # in a pm if needed!

Curtis

Did you gut the factory cats? I wouldn't want a clogged cat to cause an engine issue for you.
 
Did you gut the factory cats? I wouldn't want a clogged cat to cause an engine issue for you.

Actually, I left the cats intact....commence torching me, forum members!

I will have to look into this again, being three years since I plugged in the simulator. What I remember reading, wherever I found it, was that the CEL and codes come on at like 98% cat efficiency. I figured I could get by like that for a while, until I had money to do a more proper fix.

We hadn't even had the Runner a year yet, and I had already put $600 into timing & water pump, and $400 on the alternator, and a couple hundred for all 4 O2 sensors....I was hoping maybe a faulty 10 year old sensor was giving me a false CEL / code for the cats. Obviously, they were fine, but I was grasping at straws when I saw the cat costs and work involved!!

Money isn't as hard to come by these days at my house now, and we actually made our last payment on our Runner this week....title coming in the mail! (I know....who has to finance an already 9 year old Runner for 3 years....we were broke kids and this was our first nice vehicle lol.)

Love our Runner, and it runs perfect at 150k, we bought it with 83k! I will address this cat issue soon, surely I haven't caused to much undue harm under the hood.
 
Actually, I left the cats intact....commence torching me, forum members!

I will have to look into this again, being three years since I plugged in the simulator. What I remember reading, wherever I found it, was that the CEL and codes come on at like 98% cat efficiency. I figured I could get by like that for a while, until I had money to do a more proper fix.

We hadn't even had the Runner a year yet, and I had already put $600 into timing & water pump, and $400 on the alternator, and a couple hundred for all 4 O2 sensors....I was hoping maybe a faulty 10 year old sensor was giving me a false CEL / code for the cats. Obviously, they were fine, but I was grasping at straws when I saw the cat costs and work involved!!

Money isn't as hard to come by these days at my house now, and we actually made our last payment on our Runner this week....title coming in the mail! (I know....who has to finance an already 9 year old Runner for 3 years....we were broke kids and this was our first nice vehicle lol.)

Love our Runner, and it runs perfect at 150k, we bought it with 83k! I will address this cat issue soon, surely I haven't caused to much undue harm under the hood.

interesting, I had never heard of that percentage. I never looked into it as mine were gutted when I bought it.
 
I had the codes before, it was a exhaust gasket leak after the manifold. New gasket and haven't seen the codes again.
Several talks about it here on the forum.
 
420/430 Codes here. Just got both new manifolds with cat. So far no more codes. Very loud tick on first startup, then the normal ticking sound before the repair.
Now it starts strong and quiet and does run stronger (aka normal), so I agree the car does run weaker both with or without codes if you have a bad manifold/gasket leak that is enough to throw the codes.
 
420/430 Codes here. Just got both new manifolds with cat. So far no more codes. Very loud tick on first startup, then the normal ticking sound before the repair.
Now it starts strong and quiet and does run stronger (aka normal), so I agree the car does run weaker both with or without codes if you have a bad manifold/gasket leak that is enough to throw the codes.

How much did this run you? I've been dealing with the same issue. Replaced the O2 sensors, but the codes returned. Trying to avoid the $$ required to replace the cat.
 
How much did this run you? I've been dealing with the same issue. Replaced the O2 sensors, but the codes returned. Trying to avoid the $$ required to replace the cat.

I actually don't know. I bought the car from a used car dealer locally, and after the signing and money changing hands on the way home the day I bought it it threw those codes. 04 Limited v8 with 218K.
Did some digging and Toyota website showed it was at a Toyo dealer in October with those same codes but nothing when I test drove it. I told them this and they said they would stand by it and so I dropped it off the next morning. A week later they said come get it it was fixed and when I looked in the engine bay, it had shiny new manifold with cat on each side.... no mo money. Really impressed by the integrity of the dealer, but I have no idea what they put on there or what it cost them in parts + their in house mechanics time.

Any guesses? I am curious myself.
 
Sorry to revive a three year old post, but I missed a pm from only1corky in February (my sincere apologies to Corky!) asking me what I did to fix this issue. I found a product from Underdog Racing Development, called a rear O2 simulator. It requires all four O2 sensors to be functioning correctly, and you just plug this aftermarket harness in between the rear O2 sensors and the vehicle leads that normally connect to the sensors. It conditions the signals from the rear O2 sensors to give the ecm the signal it sees from fully-functional cats. They market this for offroad use only, but I don't have to pass emissions in SW MO, so this has served me well for three years. I just looked at the URD site to grab a part #, and could only find the 1GR-FE variety....not sure why the 2UZ-FE harness isn't available. Anyway, sorry to member only1corky for the delayed response....I hope you were able to fix your Runner! You have my # in a pm if needed!

Curtis[/QUOTE

I have a 2007 lexus gx 470, with the same engine(2UZ-FE) Had the exact same thing happen. Replace the alternater and the po 420 and po430 code come on. Tried everything to no avail. I think i will try the by pass like you did. When you ordered the bypass for the 1GR-FE did you have to modify it or did it plug and play? Also did you have to order 2 bypasses for each downstream O2 sensors or just one? Thanks In advance.
 
I have a 2007 lexus gx 470, with the same engine(2UZ-FE) Had the exact same thing happen. Replace the alternater and the po 420 and po430 code come on. Tried everything to no avail. I think i will try the by pass like you did. When you ordered the bypass for the 1GR-FE did you have to modify it or did it plug and play? Also did you have to order 2 bypasses for each downstream O2 sensors or just one? Thanks In advance.

Sorry Ropeman, I'm a month late seeing your message here....I only log-on a few times a year. Just to clearify, the unit I bought was specific to the 2UZ-FE, URD just doesn't offer it anymore. So, no modification was necessary. Only one unit was needed to hook up to both sensors. Others on the forum have suggested using the "spacers" for the O2 sensors....hope this helps.
 

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