Catalytic Converter

That's true and is why I was specific when I said O2 sensor. ;)

Luckily the A/F will throw it's own code which is pretty reliable to mean that it's bad.
 
Hi all. I have a 2000 Limited that, according to my technician, has a CEL on due to code P0420. I think that indicates that the converter or some ancillary equipment may not be functioning properly. I haven't had this checked yet, but let's assume that the converter is bad. I live in California. I am of the opinion that, considering the original converter lasted 181,000 miles, and I enjoy driving the car and want to keep it in great shape, replacing the converter with an OEM unit makes the best sense. I know they are terribly expensive, but it's hard to argue with 15 years of reliable service. Thoughts?

Do not waste your money on a Toyota Cat. My original failed after 4 years & the aftermarket I put in (with new sensors) in 2003 is still going strong. Back then the dealer wanted $1500 & I paid around $450 from some company in the midwest. Look on Amazon, you can get a high flow Cat for under $300.

I would replace the sensor first though.
 
I had this code earlier this year. I changed the rear O2 and about 4 weeks later the code reappeared.

I ordered a walker rear cat and ended up getting both Front and rear for the same price. Guessing someone boxed the parts up wrong.

Anyhow replaced both cats and gaskets going on a few months later no CEL nor codes. Truck is running fine and fuel mileage is spot on.
 
I haven't researched the T4R yet, but every O2 problem I've had only required the procedure and an ohmmeter to diagnose.

The 3.0L 3VZ-E (the predecessor to the 5VZ-FE) could be diagnosed with a multimeter by following the process in the FSM. However, that was an OBD-I vehicle so things worked a bit differently. It took a lot of detective work to fix anything. I remember having to count voltage rises in a 10 second period, 8 being normal or something like that, meaning your O2 sensor was ok.

However, no such process exists for the 5VZ-FE, or at least that I'm aware of.
 
In your beast you should be emulating the o2 sensor from the wbo2, take that stock shit out! LOL, just joking.

BMW puts wideband O2s in these cars from the factory. :hat:

It makes tuning them really easy. The piggyback tune I run taps into the factory O2s and monitors and logs everything to keep it safe, and with the E85 flash I'm running you don't even get a CEL. It works very well. :lever:

And we get these nice logs to ponder:
17619813206_5b005a8e6a_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
That's true and is why I was specific when I said O2 sensor. ;)

Luckily the A/F will throw it's own code which is pretty reliable to mean that it's bad.

The P0420 is the common code when the rear sensor goes bad on a CA model.
 
BMW puts wideband O2s in these cars from the factory. :hat:

It makes tuning them really easy. The piggyback tune I run taps into the factory O2s and monitors and logs everything to keep it safe, and with the E85 flash I'm running you don't even get a CEL. It works very well. :lever:

And we get these nice logs to ponder:
17619813206_5b005a8e6a_b.jpg

Nice good stuff. We have built our own wbo2's using a circuit board and wbo2 from bmw or volkswagons. Pretty much everything has wbo2 these days.

I miss the tuning game so bad, I want to get back in. Building me auto dsm here soon. Just need to stop spending money on the 4runner and convince wife to let me.

And I love reading logs, post up a full log file and program type, I want to read!! I have made some pretty good power with small turbos on e85.
 
Last edited:
Yes, but the code isn't exclusive to the O2 sensor going bad. That's why you troubleshoot instead of just throwing parts at a problem.

As has already been stated, troubleshooting the O2 sensor isn't as simple as putting a meter on it. If the sensor is bad, the replacing it solves the problem for $50. If the sensor isn't bad it's STILL going to have to be replaced along with the converter. I just don't see the point in spending a lot of time and money diagnosing something this simple. O2 sensor failures are extremely common (especially at this mileage), and this is the code you get when they fail.
 
And I love reading logs, post up a full log file and program type, I want to read!! I have made some pretty good power with small turbos on e85.

Check out this section of the N54tech forum. All the logs you can stand! :pound:

Support Requests, Logs, Codes, and Help Me Threads. - N54Tech.com - Your Source for International Turbo BMW Racing Discussion

The piggyback I'm using is a Juicbox 4, and it logs to .csv files, which are just opened in Excel. The cool thing about the JB4 is the guy that writes the code for it runs that forum, and it's a direct support line to him. He has a couple of employees that handle a lot of the requests, but if there's something unusual Terry will take a look at it and get things worked out. Some of the best support I've ever seen in the automotive world.

I haven't done any clean logs on my car for a while (the FL heat makes it hard to keep IATs reasonable) but I'm running 20lbs of boost. I'm putting a new low pressure fuel pump in it next week and I should be able to crank it up to 22-23psi then.
 
Check out this section of the N54tech forum. All the logs you can stand! :pound:

Support Requests, Logs, Codes, and Help Me Threads. - N54Tech.com - Your Source for International Turbo BMW Racing Discussion

The piggyback I'm using is a Juicbox 4, and it logs to .csv files, which are just opened in Excel. The cool thing about the JB4 is the guy that writes the code for it runs that forum, and it's a direct support line to him. He has a couple of employees that handle a lot of the requests, but if there's something unusual Terry will take a look at it and get things worked out. Some of the best support I've ever seen in the automotive world.

I haven't done any clean logs on my car for a while (the FL heat makes it hard to keep IATs reasonable) but I'm running 20lbs of boost. I'm putting a new low pressure fuel pump in it next week and I should be able to crank it up to 22-23psi then.

Low pressure fuel pump, only have ran high pressure. Sounds like a backwards move. With e85 even with super high IAT's I still could run lots of boost. We even removed intercoolers to get more spool and boost since the e85 just seemed to not care how high IAT's are.

I will check that place out, only issue is will want me to build a BIMMER!
 
Low pressure fuel pump, only have ran high pressure. Sounds like a backwards move. With e85 even with super high IAT's I still could run lots of boost. We even removed intercoolers to get more spool and boost since the e85 just seemed to not care how high IAT's are.

I will check that place out, only issue is will want me to build a BIMMER!

Sorry for the sidetrack in this thread. :spider:

Keep in mind I'm running a 10.2:1 compression ratio at 20lbs of boost. I'm not sure how high the IAT could get before it started causing problems, but as expensive as a short block is for this thing, I don't want to find out. :faint:

These cars are direct injected so when I say "Low pressure pump" I'm talking about the in tank pump that's outputting about 47psi. That pump is feeding a mechanical pump that's driven off the timing chain, and it's capable of feeding the injectors about 2800psi. Right now the low pressure pump is struggling to maintain constant feed pressure to the HPFP because of the increased flow requirements of the E85, so I have to upgrade it. The new pump will flow enough to support close to 700WHP. Beyond that I'd be looking at having to add a port injection system and a second pump to support the fuel requirements. That's what the guys with the big single turbos are doing. My plan is to get all the potential out of the current turbos, and then focus on the suspension setup. :police:

These things are tons of fun, and as we transition to more and more hybrid performance cars they'll probably become pretty desirable as they age. Right now you can get good deals on them though, assuming you're willing to do your own work. So, my suggestion to you would be to go out and find you a cheap 135i or 335i that needs the turbos replaced, and get busy! :doh:

Here's the tech release on the engine when it first came out. Pretty detailed description of how it all works.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38856
 
Last edited:
So, where is the best / cheapest place to get the Toyota 02 sensor? Amazon? Dealership? Somewhere online?

I have had the same problem off and on for the last month. I cleared it originally by cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor. But then, last week, the CEL came back on with the VSC VSC TRAC lights. :pout:

I think my next best step is to replace the rear sensor and see if that clears it.
 
So, where is the best / cheapest place to get the Toyota 02 sensor? Amazon? Dealership? Somewhere online?

I have had the same problem off and on for the last month. I cleared it originally by cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor. But then, last week, the CEL came back on with the VSC VSC TRAC lights. :pout:

I think my next best step is to replace the rear sensor and see if that clears it.

For me, the best place to buy them was either Ebay or Amazon.
 
I dont know if anyone mentioned this but clogged cats are usually caused by bad o2 sensors. Making the car run rich and causing sulfer build up. So if you keep the sensors working and not let the CEL go forever you usually dont clog up the cat. But again all toyotas seem to make that sulfur smell.

So definitely change both A/F sensor and o2 sensor before replacing cat correct?
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,068
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top