Not exactly sure what happened, but it sounds like he took on more orders than he was able to fulfill, and he ran into some personal legal trouble. TW I think banned him for not fulfilling orders.
That being said, I would NOT buy his kit if I had to do it over. The terminals he provided wouldn't fit, I ended up buying a new set. The cable from the battery to the fuse block I guess he ran out of red, so he subbed black. I think that's poor workmanship, but he also used CCA, which over time has corroded and become brittle at the end. He should have used ferrules for the ends that are getting crimped, but didn't. The end result was that I had an electrical gremlin with some issue of the fuse block not getting sufficient voltage/power. On top of that, from what I understand there is now no fusible link between the battery and fuse block, so there is a potential (albeit improbable) issue of overpowering the fuse block.
If I still had my stock wiring, I'd go back to it in a second. At some point in the future, I'll be redoing all this work.
Wow, sorry to hear. It makes me glad that I did some additional reading instead of just jumping right into this.
Honestly I think this mod is not required until you get a 200amp alt which is also not required, I've been running dual batteries, m8000 winch, full hydraulic plow with power pack, 1000w inverter and use to plow all over town, now it just plows my 1/2 mile driveway and never gets a chance for good charge driving down the road so I use to let it idle for 10mins after plowing for an hour or 2. I found a draw in the system recently and since I fixed that everything seems fine don't need to let it idle anymore after plowing, plowing sucks WAY more juice than winching. I could use a smaller pulley on the alt or bigger alt since I rarely get up to 2500rpms but seems fine now even at -30* and not being started 5 months out of the year, still on original alt and 2 4yr old stock batteries, the winch and plow get there power from the battery directly and the alt can only charge so much depending on rpms or alt rating, the factory Toyota wiring is sufficient even with upgraded alt and factory 100 amp relay SR5 or the factory 120amp ALT relay on Limited, although your headlights will dim plowing and winching unless you switch the headlights to positive switching but even then your going to see them dim when taxing the battery. I agree more grounds are always better but not required. If you do this a crimp connection is best with a proper crimper and then a bit of solder afterwards for good luck.
HomeGoal Wire Crimper Crimping Tool Cable Lug Crimper Ratchet Wire Crimping Pliers with Cable Cutter for 10 8 64 2 and 1/0 AWG Wire Cable Cutting and Crimping: Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
1. Plowing w/ a 4runner is cool, send pics
2. I haven't decided what I'm going to do, if anything, with the stock wiring, which is why I got these terminals, which will allow me to simply keep the stock wiring in place while adding new wires for my accessory power distribution setup. Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz Ultimate Positive and Negative Battery Terminal Pair with OEM Top Post Adapter: Industrial & Scientific
<a href="https://imgur.com/gp65nep"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/gp65nepl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
3. For crimping the big stuff, I picked up the harbor freight hydraulic crimper. There was one negative review I read where it cracked for someone but I haven't had any problems with it and it makes pretty nice crimps. I follow up with triple-walled, adhesive-lined heat shrink.
Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool
here's how the crimps turn out:
<a href="https://imgur.com/ckofz3p"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ckofz3pl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/zgxuBvf"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/zgxuBvfl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>