Does you T4R creep forward with AC on @ traffic light? best $36 ever spent!
- Thread starter gshadow325
- Start date
BlackWorksInc
New member
[MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION]
Next time try it with PB Blaster, the heat and PB Blaster will do the same thing; with the added benefit of the PB Blaster soaking in and breaking down rust as well. We do the same thing with severely seized O2 Sensors and such (though we don't see to many of them in California.)
Next time try it with PB Blaster, the heat and PB Blaster will do the same thing; with the added benefit of the PB Blaster soaking in and breaking down rust as well. We do the same thing with severely seized O2 Sensors and such (though we don't see to many of them in California.)
gshadow325
New member
i did try PB blaster but the heat/ cool method worked out of all the things i did.
thanks for the tip though
BlackWorksInc
New member
I meant in place of a water bottle to provide the quenching, use PB Blaster to quench the metal.
gshadow325
New member
I meant in place of a water bottle to provide the quenching, use PB Blaster to quench the metal.
Oooooooooooh that would make tons of sense now!
Cliff notes: buy centric stainless steel front lines part # 950.44007 for $36 from amazon. same part as stoptech. install it, then you done.
Full story below
This problem has plagued my 4R since i bought it 19 months ago.
Its a 03 V8 SR5 that has right now 189,500 miles. so it has the 318mm brake rotors/smaller calipers.
I replaced the following way back when i got it, so everything has about 22,000 miles on it.
-All new rotors
-All new OEM pads AND parking brake shoes
-All new brake fluid
-front Calipers and rear calipers were not seized up and functioning properly
This past weekend i got a change to drive [MENTION=107885]kirkg[/MENTION]'s 03 v8 limited 150k with the 331 rotors and the bigger calipers and stainless steel goodrich brake lines. he's a muffler and brake pro.
With his advice and then some more "research" on t4r.org.
He suggested i only do the fronts, there are 4 in the rear. they didnt do much and the two center rubbers lines didnt do anything at all for him.
Well this is what i did.
Found out that Centric is the parent for stop tech.
If you google search a set of stainless steel DOT approved brake lines for your truck using this part number 950.44007 you will get stop tech part AND centric part. Amazon sells the centric brand for $34.78 free shipping with prime plus tax. everywhere i look its going for $52 plus shipping
When you get the package from amazon its in a stoptech bag.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/129154214@N04/15589276730" title="20141112_120953 by gshadow3225 .., on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/15589276730_749cf90dee_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="20141112_120953"></a>
For me, i didnt even think my lines were bad, when i got the truck inspected it and it was fine. I got used to the problem.
Now with only the front lines done. the pedal has a much firmer feel. it doesnt creep at traffic lights anymore. i find the brakes are more touchy, instead of a mushy feel to it. I think it can be better, so i promptly ordered the rear two outer lines from "centric", so i cant comment if they are going to be the stop tech ones or not. at least not till next tuesday when they come in. btw the rears cost $52 bucks from amazon, still cheaper than everyone else out there!
here are the fine looking 189,500 mile old lines next to the new ones
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/129154214@N04/15750584336" title="20141112_124410 by gshadow3225 .., on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8125/15750584336_79e60094c1_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="20141112_124410"></a>
Questions?
Will the brake line fit the 06 Sports Edition with bigger rotors/calipers also?
BlackWorksInc
New member
They should?
Any update. I would still like to do the rears on my 2003 sport but cant find the part numbers. And dont understand someone said there is 4 on the rear.
Thanks
which years have these small brakes and "creep" issue? my 06 v8 sport stops on a dime and feels "very" grabby but is all oem as far as I know
this is why I "only" use a box end wrench on it to bleed brakes, put box end on and break it loose then slip hose over nipple with box end still on I open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed for 5 minutes and check the and top off the fluid level and if you see clear clean fluid in the hose its done. this method works great when you are by yourself but I only do one at a time because I don't want to risk the reservoir running dry.
this video shows how you do the gravity feed method https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVq7sAFJTpI
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this is why I "only" use a box end wrench on it to bleed brakes, put box end on and break it loose then slip hose over nipple with box end still on I open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed for 5 minutes and check the and top off the fluid level and if you see clear clean fluid in the hose its done. this method works great when you are by yourself but I only do one at a time because I don't want to risk the reservoir running dry.
this video shows how you do the gravity feed method https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVq7sAFJTpI
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I've noticed this "creep" on my 04, even with new brakes. Still have old hoses.
Swelling hoses are one thing. But If I hold down the brake like a little ***** with the a/c on, the a/c will cycle on and off like it's supposed to and push the power loss/gain from the a/c to the wheels. The computer automatically adjusts the idle air control to maintain proper idle speed with ac on and off. This will also change engine manifold vacuum because it's allowing more/less air to bypass the throttle body. This can reduce braking power because that power is assisted by the booster, which is directly powered by engine vacuum. So there's a constant battle of applied power to wheels and the brakes because of the ac. Simply apply more foot.
Swelling hoses are one thing. But If I hold down the brake like a little ***** with the a/c on, the a/c will cycle on and off like it's supposed to and push the power loss/gain from the a/c to the wheels. The computer automatically adjusts the idle air control to maintain proper idle speed with ac on and off. This will also change engine manifold vacuum because it's allowing more/less air to bypass the throttle body. This can reduce braking power because that power is assisted by the booster, which is directly powered by engine vacuum. So there's a constant battle of applied power to wheels and the brakes because of the ac. Simply apply more foot.
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