Driveline clunk grease

blkexp98

New member
I know the issue has been covered but i was curious which grease yall used and if you switched to a moly version for the driveshaft. I saw where mobil 1 was mentioned but not much else specifically. I went to the dealer to get some touchup paint and figured id try to buy some if they happened to have a tube of it for some reason. Their answer was they just use an all purpose grease and he had no idea what moly was. He said they dont get that technical and to just go to the local auto parts store and get some all purpose grease.

So i went to Advance auto and ended up with the lucas Red N Tacky #2. The tube has the NLGI on it so i suppose its a happy medium. It says it contains an antisieze but is great for bearings so what do yall think. I remember a post saying the moly was for a sliding movements and would cause issues with bearings not spinning but getting a flat spot. It sounds right for my driveshaft but what about the other zerks?

Have most of yall stuck to the 2 or so full squeezes into the driveshaft. How about the other zerks? Still until you see it barely start to come out?

Thanks,

Major
 
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not sure what is recommended for 4th gen, regarding the grease specifics, but I use Redline CV2 on my 3rd gen driveshaft and ujoints . load up the zerks on the driveshaft till you see it seep out of the splines -it might take a lot or it might take a little. hit the ujoints till you hear em pop. (its just the air escaping)
 
Grease

I use Mobil 1 in mine and it works great.

What I do is give each one 3 or 4 good pumps with the grease gun and then take a small wrench and unscrew the zerk to let out any excess. Wipe off the excess that comes out and then screw the zerk back in.

FYI, the very first time lubed the zerks it a few of the fittings took like 7 or 8 pumps before they seemed to be full. Again by unscrewing the zerk and putting it back in you can be sure you are not overfilling them.

YMMV but works for me.

Easy and no more clunk! :cool:
 
??

Dang. I think I need to get back under my 4runner. I used Valvoline SynPower (Valvoline.com > Products > Grease Gear Oil > Grease > SynPower® Synthetic Grease) on all the zerks and am still getting the "clunk" at random starts and stops while driving.

I loaded up the zerks on the driveshaft and heard the grease crackle then seep out of the seams, but didn't hear the "pop" when filling the ujoint zerks. i gave em about 4-6 full pumps.

Any thoughts on what else could be the issue? or do I just need to get back under and hear that "pop" ?

Thanks.
 
Dang. I think I need to get back under my 4runner. I used Valvoline SynPower (Valvoline.com > Products > Grease Gear Oil > Grease > SynPower® Synthetic Grease) on all the zerks and am still getting the "clunk" at random starts and stops while driving.

I loaded up the zerks on the driveshaft and heard the grease crackle then seep out of the seams, but didn't hear the "pop" when filling the ujoint zerks. i gave em about 4-6 full pumps.

Any thoughts on what else could be the issue? or do I just need to get back under and hear that "pop" ?

Thanks.

Just to clarify.... when I said "fill the ujoints till you hear 'em pop" be aware that your interpretation might differ. Snapping/crackling/popping are all acceptable "confirmation" noises. Think rice crispies w/milk. That's the noise(s) you should be listening for.
 
I loaded up the zerks on the driveshaft and heard the grease crackle then seep out of the seams, but didn't hear the "pop" when filling the ujoint zerks. i gave em about 4-6 full pumps.

Any thoughts on what else could be the issue? or do I just need to get back under and hear that "pop" ?

Thanks.

Either you missed a few of the zerks or there are a few that still need more grease. I know a few guys have had to put 7-10 pumps in some the first time they greased them in order to get them full. Again, you can always unscrew the zerk with a small wrench and let some grease out.

Concentrate your efforts on the zerks at the end of the driveshaft where it telescopes, not inside the U-joint itself. The drive telescoping too easy is what causes the clunk.
 
The following is from:
Grease: don't let the details slip through your fingers | Canadian Forest Industries | Find Articles at BNET

"The NLGI Service Classification System classifies grease relative to quality and type of application. The letters CA, GB and GC refer to mild duty, moderate duty and severe duty classifications, respectively, in wheel bearings. The letters LA and LB refer to chassis lubrication. LA is for greases intended for mild-duty frequent lubrication. LB is for higher quality greases intended for severe service in chassis, meaning high loads, exposure to water washout and infrequent lubrication. So if you see a tube of grease with the letters GC-LB on the tube, it means that grease has been approved for severe duty in both bearings (GC) and chassis (LB) and it can be considered a premium quality multi-purpose grease."

but I also heard the same thing on Truck U recently.

Mobil 1 synthetic grease is GC-LB rated.
 
I use the Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 GC/LB. Had the driveline clunk and not since I used this. I put ten zerks in first time, then just three every six months.
 
I had good luck with the Valvoline Syntech stuff. I think the key to the driveshaft clunk is to jack it up and make sure the axle is off the ground and unsupported i.e. place the jackstands or jack somewhere that allows the axle to hang freely. This way the slip yoke has to extend all the way out leaving more thread suface internally for grease. Then, when you lower it, bounce up and down on the bumper a few times to compress the drive shaft. This is what I did and its been 10k and the clunk is just now barely starting to come back. I can deal with having to lube it every other oil change, no biggie.
 
Mobil 1. Easily found at most any auto store (though not Wal-Mart).

The U-Joint will take a few pumps (3-10) until you hear the "pop" of the grease being expressed.

The driveshaft on the other hand...

Be aware that the drive shaft is extended when you jack your 4Runner up, so what you put in there will be compressed when you take it around the block. Don't over do it!

It's not so easy to give it a few pumps until you see the drive shaft elongate, especially that front one. If you give it a good 5-10 pumps every time you change the oil, you'll be pretty good also.
 
I simply pop splins apart (usually 4 bolts, or 4 bolts plus 2 for the support bearing), mark the shaft, pull it apart (not the new ones with the boot on them) and pack this stuff into the splines:

IMAG0111.jpg~original


Then reassemble.


Then grease through the zerk, depending on how empty the shaft is.
After that, it's mainly just regular greasing from there.

It works, and it works well.
 
Don't Use Mystik

I used Mystik red High Temp on recommendation from a parts counter guy and could not be more disappointed. Clunk back within days and progressively getting worse.

Now, my situation is a bit different as my driveline was dry when I bought it, zero preventative maintenance done. It took a whole tube, yes a whole tube, to get the rear and front slip yokes to move after hitting all of the Ujoints.
I suspect that the front still needs some grease but the rear clunk has returned like normal, very disappointed in Mystik.

Looks like I will have to try Mobil 1, though I have read somewhere that the Castrol full synthetic is also a good choice.

Edit:
Here is the link:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...-4DwBw&usg=AFQjCNFMC3fKxRWh9zpgNepGoBlVz6ZbPw
 
Last edited:
When I owned an FJ I used the Mobile1 grease. If I remember correctly you pump until the grease comes out of the boots BUT DO NOT DO THAT FOR THE DRIVESHAFT! I was told not to pump more than 3 or 4 times on the drive shaft. I'm no mechanic but it had something to do with expanding or flexing and something could get damaged. I'm assuming it would be the same case with the 4Runner.
 
Green Grease FTW. used it in the shaft, ujoints, end links... love the stuff. Does not fling out at all. Very good tech specs. Mixed reviews by others, but I love the stuff. Never had luck with any Lucas or Royal purple products. If I was going to run expensive lubes I run amsoil or redline. Run amsoil in everything as far as fluids on the truck, car, and motocross bike.

The Green Grease is sticky, hard to get off your skin and clothes, it is slick for how sticky it is. Seems like a very unique product.
 

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