Early Oil Change

Did my first at 2K miles, 2nd at 5K miles, will change every 5K miles for the life of the truck. This 10K mile change crap is BS as far as i'm concerned. Your oil can never be to clean and the $50 in parts is more than worth the peace of mind. Ah nd don't be cheap. Filters are 4-5 bucks. Change the filter every 5K with the oil, seriously, come on lol. Also, do it yourself. 95% of dealer oil change techs are clueless, stay away.
 
IMO changing the oil filter at every oil change is how I do it. oil filters can breakdown the pleats can crack .. on my engines I do cut open oil filters that are not Toyota types . dino oil does create more filter debris than synthetics. the oil changes I did back in the 1990's and earlier dino oil / filter 3,500-4K miles. this is with traffic driving so more hours on engine.... this type of procedure , did not cause any engine failures/leaks/oil use of any amount that required adding.. my 1983 V8 380K miles used 1/2qt @the 4k dino oil changes. never had any oil analysis done ..

what I did have to do when buying a new GM vehicle was , change the oil at the first 1K miles due to the break in with the oil looking nasty. then I also did another when at 3K miles on vehicle. after that the 4K oil changes and the dino oil looked good till I sold it @380K miles ..

on these new toyota engines I have found the oil and filters to be extremely clean .. no break in issues . I now have 7.5K on my oil and it looks like I just changed it . mobil synthetic . oil level is down about 1/8 qt. also no goop under the oil fill cap .. when new the toyota oil did create a white goop under the cap. after the changing of the toyota oil never came back.. last time I ever seen that mess was when using dino oil . dino oil does absorb water then it breaks down .. synthetics do not absorb water so the engine will last a lot longer and less leaking issues due to acid creation / corrosion .

since the fuel management on these are very tight less oil damage ..back in the carburetor days the oil would get damaged and this is because of mechanical problems ... carbs not all that great on fuel control.

these toyota engine take about 45 min for the oil to drain , much longer than a older GM engine ...IMO must have many small passageways in it ..........engine hot ..

I do not live / operate my vehicles in a dusty area...........
 
Last edited:
Did my first at 2K miles, 2nd at 5K miles, will change every 5K miles for the life of the truck. This 10K mile change crap is BS as far as i'm concerned. Your oil can never be to clean and the $50 in parts is more than worth the peace of mind. Ah nd don't be cheap. Filters are 4-5 bucks. Change the filter every 5K with the oil, seriously, come on lol. Also, do it yourself. 95% of dealer oil change techs are clueless, stay away.

I agree with this and this is how I've done it for many years. If you want it done right, you have to do it yourself. Just don't forget to document the oil change.
 
I agree with this and this is how I've done it for many years. If you want it done right, you have to do it yourself. Just don't forget to document the oil change.

Been buying the oil and filter from the dealer for now. I will probably do my 10K the same way and then switch to Mobil 1 but continue to buy dealer filters. Keep receipts and document mileage on the paperwork.
 
Been buying the oil and filter from the dealer for now. I will probably do my 10K the same way and then switch to Mobil 1 but continue to buy dealer filters. Keep receipts and document mileage on the paperwork.

I buy the OEM filters on Amazon and the oil (mobil 1) wherever is cheapest (usually Walmart), save the receipts, and document the change. The only vehicle I had to prove all of this to was on my f150 ecoboost when the engine started knocking at 40k. All it really did was make the dealer back down from their claim that I wasn't changing the oil, oh and I had oil analysis paper work to go with it. They just stalled on the work after that so much that I just ended up trading it in for my 5th gen. I've never had to do that with any other vehicle because I've never had engine trouble like that.
 
I buy the OEM filters on Amazon and the oil (mobil 1) wherever is cheapest (usually Walmart), save the receipts, and document the change. The only vehicle I had to prove all of this to was on my f150 ecoboost when the engine started knocking at 40k. All it really did was make the dealer back down from their claim that I wasn't changing the oil, oh and I had oil analysis paper work to go with it. They just stalled on the work after that so much that I just ended up trading it in for my 5th gen. I've never had to do that with any other vehicle because I've never had engine trouble like that.

That's exactly my plan. The truth is, they have to prove you didn't change your oil, not the other way around. Your warranty is your warranty. If they want to void it, they better be able to prove it. Just placing blame is BS and would never hold up if it came to taking them to court.
 
Well, I did it. Thank you all for your opinions. While waiting on my 5000 mile service at the dealer, I bought an oil filter there and on the way home, stopped at Wal-Mart and picked up Mobil 1 enhanced fuel economy. $25.47 per jug. Not bad. I crawled under the truck and followed the instructions I found on this site. Other than a very stuck bolt on the skid plate, it went very well. I feel better now and won't worry as much during the long road trip. I still can't get my head around 10000 miles between changes. Hopefully, with some therapy, I will accept it and stop torturing myself.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,080
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top