Help with Loose rear shocks after lift install

[Hepar]

Figured out that clunk in the back is the top stud of my drivers rear bilstein shock. Lift was installed about a year ago and it started this week. Passenger side is fine so far. I will try the vise grip and wrench technique. Does anyone know the size of that nut? Any tips?
Thanks guys

Offhand I can't remember the size of it. I do know I ended up getting a standard size because I couldn't find a metric socket in the correct size. I think it's 15/16th, but I could be wrong. The key was finding a socket that's not too long and not too short. Too short and you won't be able to tighten it enough Too tall and you won't be able to get a wrench over it. I'd check, but my box of tools is over at my friends place.

 

[getlost]

Offhand I can't remember the size of it. I do know I ended up getting a standard size because I couldn't find a metric socket in the correct size. I think it's 15/16th, but I could be wrong. The key was finding a socket that's not too long and not too short. Too short and you won't be able to tighten it enough Too tall and you won't be able to get a wrench over it. I'd check, but my box of tools is over at my friends place.

Ya i ended up with a 1" and i got it pretty tight, no more clunk. I will try 15/16th because it didnt fit quite perfect. Such a bit&* to access. I should have gone a bigger body lift. Thanks for the info about the badlands bumper its awesome and i will be getting them to do all my armor.

 

[WrexHAmm]

Seems like this is a pretty common issue. I had the drivers side come loose. I could turn the shock about a quarter turn before tight again. It is a super tight fit to get it tight again. Thankfully I have a couple of trim packers on both sides giving me a little extra space.

I used a deep socket (I think 3/4th, don't quote me on that) and a long ratchet to get it tight again. Just a lot of feeling around and patience. Eventually I got it tight.

*** Edit. Make sure you find a ratchet with very slim profile. I got mine from Autozone. Allowed me to put a small cheater bar on the end to give me enough torque to turn the nut.

 

[ChicagoT4R]

Tac welding the mount to the frame is the way to go. After loosening up for the third time while heading up Imogene Pass in CO, I stopped by the local shop and he tac welded the mounts...many miles and many trails later, I've had no issues!

I'll give an update on my fix. I took it back to the shop and the guy said he had a hard time getting any tools on there. He finally got one of those knuckle sockets and tightened it as much as he could then he tac welded the mount on the shock to the mount on the frame.

 

[jakeo25]

Bolt Size of Upper Shock Mount

The size of the large nut that holds the upper shock mount is a 24mm. This nut is notoriously hard to tighten, especially the left side. When loose it is a source of a mysterious clanging sound when you're off-road.

A 1/2" socket wrench with the socket will fit in the space above the mount. A 3/8" might work, but you will need the 1/2-3/8 adapter with the socket -- may not be enough room.

The ratchet wrench is your best bet to get enough purchase on the nut, and since the space is tight you can only get about 1/16 of a turn before ratcheting. I only had a 1/2" breaker bar with the socket, and was difficult to set with only 60 degree increments. This did work to put a good amount of torque on the nut.

Another thing to have a small pry bar to keep the shock mount from turning while you tighten the nut. A helper is good for holding the pry bar, if she doesn't mind laying on the ground. Bribe her with chocolate. But I digress.

Finally, it is a really good idea to keep the shock mount oriented so the shock bolt can easily be removed. While the shock mount is loose, turn it so that the shock bolt nut is more or less close the suspension spring. This allows easy replacement of your shocks down the road. This is a little hard to describe, but imagine trying to replace your shock and because of the orientation, the bolt is next to impossible to remove.

Hope this helps. email me if you have more questions.

 

[OL0033]

Hope this helps. email me if you have more questions.

Lets hope they solved the issue already, considering that this post is almost 2 years old.

 

[98Fizzy]

I got my set of 4600's off ebay - Sep 2nd 2014

I got my set of 4600's for my 98 4Runner off ebay back on Sep 2nd 2014 and the driver side rear snapped the dreaded end off the top. I just contacted the ebay seller and he gave me a RMA number and instructions to ship the busted one back and when I gave him tracking info; he put in the order for a new one to be shipped to me. Just waiting on it now. :thumb3:

 

[infamousRNR]

I have a horrible clunk in my rear end ever since day one.. I tightened mine down pretty good. Or so I thought. Is the general consensus is that the "clunk" is from loose upper shock mounting Bolts???

 

[Asaspades93]

easiest way to get the top bolt is a body lift :naughty:
I know some don't want one but i would suggest vice grips on the top of the shock while you torque the bolt, locktite cant hurt until its time to take off