How to screw up Seafoming your car

Clacquam

New member
I generally run seafoam through my intake with every oil change. Usually, I take the line going to the pcv valve and let it get sucked in through there. Then to quickly kill the engine, I pull the EFI fuse. I've done this a few times before with no trouble.

When I pulled the fuse this time, the engine didn't stop. It kept going, but very rough. I'm pretty sure it was running on the alcohol in the Seafoam. I had to plug the EFI back in to get it running evenly again (it was knocking bad). I shut it off a few seconds later once the seafoam had burned off.

Am I the first person to screw up like this?
 
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I still don't understand why anyone would want to run that crap through their engine. To each their own. Reminds me of when Slick50 came out, everyone thought it was the best thing for the engine ................ urggh.
 
I still don't understand why anyone would want to run that crap through their engine. To each their own. Reminds me of when Slick50 came out, everyone thought it was the best thing for the engine ................ urggh.


I am with you, I just don't get it. Back when I was small, my neighbor would take his air filter off, rev up the engine to almost redline and dump a quart of ATF through the caburator. Said if cleaned out the engine.

Slick 50 was the biggest scam ever put on the automotive market.
 
I would agree that injecting Seafoam into the cylinder head is probably not a good idea, but with some exceptions:

-Older, high mileage engines.

-2-stokes, such as dirt bikes, outboards, etc.

-Turbo engines as they tend to run richer than most. But only after the engines are 8-10 years old.

-Old tractors or rich running lawn equipment.


I Seafoamed my old MR2 Turbo a few years back. Sucked about 6-7oz through the brake booster vacuum hose, turned it off, waited about 20 minutes, then restarted it. The amount of carbon burn off was absolutely astounding (massive cloud of black smoke). After I burned it off by idling and running slow engine speeds for 30 minutes, and changed the plugs once cool, it did run a heck of a lot better! I think the valves were able to seal better. There was a risk it dislodging large chunks of carbon and scraping the cylinder. Not sure if that was the case, but like I said it ran a lot better and for a couple of years before selling it. It did not have a primary cat...I would be afraid of clogging a cat with this stuff.

I do use Seafoam in my outboard and lawn mowers, but adding it to the gas only. I also used it to help store gas in a Miata that sat over the winters. Sta-bil would work just as well.

Don't really see the need with today's cleaner burning engines.
 
I have used Sea-Foam in my vehicles for years because I buy gas mainly at a truck stop called Flying J, which does not sell Top Tier gas. I put a container in a full fuel tank every 5000 miles.
 
I seafoamed my 03 gti 1.8t. 1/3 in gas tank 1/3 in the oil and 1/3 in the intake, them ran it and did an oil change. Huge huge difference afterwards, I have a video around here somewhere. But billowing white clouds out the back after and it was so smooth running.

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I've tried seafoam in the crankcase and PCV a couple times. Each time I burned a valve shortly after, I won't be doing that anymore.
 
Oil Pan

I was thinking of running seafoam for like 20 minutes in my '04 V8 because i just got it at 130k miles and want to clean it out. I wanted to pull the oil pan off afterwards and clean it out if there are any thick buildups or solids. Does this sound like a good plan? The real trouble is i can't find online the part number for the gasket for it to replace it after removing it. I've searched everywhere for it.
 
I was thinking of running seafoam for like 20 minutes in my '04 V8 because i just got it at 130k miles and want to clean it out. I wanted to pull the oil pan off afterwards and clean it out if there are any thick buildups or solids. Does this sound like a good plan? The real trouble is i can't find online the part number for the gasket for it to replace it after removing it. I've searched everywhere for it.

If you have time, mechanically inclined and REALLY want to clean out your engine, I would rip it out, take it apart, clean it up good, put it back together and replace all that may need to be replaced. This way, you practically guarantee the engine will be good to go. Too many bad stories from using SF.
 
I was thinking of running seafoam for like 20 minutes in my '04 V8 because i just got it at 130k miles and want to clean it out. I wanted to pull the oil pan off afterwards and clean it out if there are any thick buildups or solids. Does this sound like a good plan? The real trouble is i can't find online the part number for the gasket for it to replace it after removing it. I've searched everywhere for it.

I wouldn't put seafoam in the engine because it can really wipe out gunk behind the seals and start leaks. Motor oil is already full of detergents. What I would do is shorten up your OCI for a few changes. When you do an oil change with fresh oil does it go darker right away or does is stay golden? In my experience if you've been servicing the engine on time you shouldn't have issues.

Sea foam is one of those things that will only help an engine that needs it. If it doesn't need it then you won't notice a difference. I've had no issues running it in the fuel tank and sucking it in through the brake booster. Some vehicles improve.. great! The ones that don't have other issues.
 
yea seafoam was a $3,000 lesson for me. Ran it in the crankcase of a dodge ram I picked up with 120k on it. Had the truck for about a year then started idling funny checked the tb and it was caked with gunk. So cleaned that figured I'd seafoam the truck while I was at it.

Followed the directions 1 ounce per quart of oil 6 quarts so 6 ounces ran it for 300 miles dumped the oil changed the filter.

Fast forward a month later truck starts having a misfire on cylinder 8 that would come and go. Common for these trucks with higher milage when the hydro lash adjusters start wearing, felt fine no power lose etc.

Then after 4 months coming home from work in rush hour traffic in the carpool lane. Bam followed by clanking and shaking thought I ran something over something and it wrapped around the driveshaft, instantly merge across 5 lanes. Pull off shut the truck down crawl around underneath figuring I'd find something wrapped around the driveline or something. See nothing so start the truck and the noise is coming from the motor and the motor looking like its going to rip out of the motor mounts.
After waiting for a hour for the tow truck 2 hour tow home after a 12 hour shift at work finally home.

Week later I have my motor builder tear the motor down. Rod bearing failure and a thrashed rod, because the oil passage was clogged. Start thinking about it and truck was fine before I seafoamed it. Talked to my builder and he said he sees that a couple times now with higher milage cars. Especially if the previous owner didn't take care of it and is sludged up adding seafoam just releases all the sludge.

So yea that $6 can of seafoam cost me over 3 grand when it was said and done. :ybrick:

SEAFOAM IS COMPLETE GARBAGE


IMG_9975_zpswjywawrq.jpg~original
 
yea seafoam was a $3,000 lesson for me. Ran it in the crankcase of a dodge ram I picked up with 120k on it. Had the truck for about a year then started idling funny checked the tb and it was caked with gunk. So cleaned that figured I'd seafoam the truck while I was at it.

Followed the directions 1 ounce per quart of oil 6 quarts so 6 ounces ran it for 300 miles dumped the oil changed the filter.

Fast forward a month later truck starts having a misfire on cylinder 8 that would come and go. Common for these trucks with higher milage when the hydro lash adjusters start wearing, felt fine no power lose etc.
So you bought a used high mileage truck, that have tendency for the a misfire on cylinder 8 and you blame the seafoam? Not only that you had this code and drove on it for 4 months and the the engine blew? No offense, but usually if you get a code its warning you of an issue to look into, correct, or stop operating under normal load. On top of all of that the previous owner didn't take care of the vehicle. You can't blame the seafoam on this can you? Sounds like this truck was going to have issues no matter what you did to it.
 
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I've heard these arguments about engine cleaning additives like Seafoam, Techron, injector cleaners, whatever since 1980. They don't do jacksquat.
 
Seafoam is magic in a bottle

I never knew you could add seafoam to your engine oil. I have used the fuel treatment on quads that bog down when you give them gas. Treat the tank and after a few laps around the block it works its magic and clears the carb jets without having to pull it out to clean it. It also works good as a stabilizer or corn killer in world where gas goes bad...From personal experience I recommend the fuel treatment for anything with a carb or injectors with mileage.
 
So you bought a used high mileage truck, that have tendency for the a misfire on cylinder 8 and you blame the seafoam? Not only that you had this code and drove on it for 4 months and the the engine blew? No offense, but usually if you get a code its warning you of an issue to look into, correct, or stop operating under normal load. On top of all of that the previous owner didn't take care of the vehicle. You can't blame the seafoam on this can you? Sounds like this truck was going to have issues no matter what you did to it.

Truck had zero issues before seafoaming it no check engine lights etc for a year, cleaned the throttle body because the idle was high from the butterfly sticking slightly.

No offense taken but like I said the misfire would come and go to the point it would be gone for a month at a time. I swapped injectors, coil packs, new spark plugs and the misfire didn't follow, compression test and everything checked out fine truck even ran fine? So that's why I ended up ignoring it and assuming it was the lash adjusters bleeding down from sitting.

When my builder tore the motor down and found clogged up oil passages? Kind of narrows it down especially after driving it for year and regular oil changes every 5k with Pennzoil platinum and mopar filters before I decided to seafoam it?

Read around online I'm not the first with seafoam issues. Same goes when you power flushing your trans. Just keep up on normal fluid changes and you'll be fine.... my 2005 6mt G35 coupe had over 170k when I sold it zero issues no oil burning etc kid came from San Fran to Los Angeles and drove it home still no issues with anything. Only thing I ever did maintenance-wise was fluid and filter changes and the only repairs besides fixing stuff from being slammed on coilovers was a thermostat and only reason that failed was the car idling for 2 hours waiting to be staged at wekfest with the ac on in the middle of May. And when I replaced the oil pan after smashing it, it was clean even the oil pickup screen was clean.

I can't blame seafoam fully for it my last dodge same year and motor ate its camshafts alive, I'm just going off what my engine builder told me. He's built multiple motors for us my last dodge, my dads 383 stroker, brothers stroked datsun L28, my 350 small block, my current dodge and when he also says its not the first time seeing clogged up oil passages from people using engine cleaners.... I'll just stay away from it.

Btw I got the mileage wrong motor went at 120k bought the truck with 107k. And I cant say how good the truck was taken care of but it did run fine zero issues passed smog and I bought it from the original owner.

End of the day it is also is a Chrysler product I've had two of these trucks die and my dads jeep jk was a laundry list of problems, starting at 30k when the water pump failed and then when the salsa slinger welds on factory track bar axle mount let go on the freeway at 70mph. The only reliable Chrysler we have ever owned was my dads 70's big block short bed power wagon.
 

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