My cargo box build

bucknasty07

New member
The one thing that always drove me crazy about my 4runner was the lack of storage space. The two little flip up plastic drawers on the wheel wells are fairly useless, so I took some motivation from the many great builds people have done for some cargo boxes.

Let me first say, I am not a carpenter or a skilled builder in any sense of the word. This project took me at least 3x longer than it should have. But the end product looks good and functions good and thats all that matters. My goal was to create a box that didn't rise above the wheel wells so I would still have enough room to stack various things on top of it if needed.

First, I used the rear mat as a template and cut a piece of plywood. It was a little longer than the mat so when I removed the rear shelving piece it would sit flush with the rear strip with the tie downs. (Can't figure out how to put these pictures after paragraphs so they're all at the end.)

I made an identical frame for the bottom and attached everything to create a box frame. The 3rd picture shows a weird gap in the center but this was replaced with a single 2x6. The box would probably bow if I put weight on it so that was a no brainer. Bad planning, like I said I'm no carpenter or builder. The frame was approximately 9in tall. This allowed the box to sit almost flush with the wheel well and didn't get in the way with the little plastic drawers so they could still be used if needed.

Next, I carpeted the entire top and made my 2 drawers and carpeted the outsides of them. Got this carpet from Home Depot for about $15. I swear the exact color of the toyota carpet must be trademarked or locked in Fort Knox because I couldn't find an exact match anywhere. But this carpet was close enough. I used spray adhesive and staples so it wouldn't move around as I move stuff along the top of it while loading and unloading stuff.

I put self closing drawer pulls because, why not! They can support 400lbs and they were long enough (24in) to help secure the drawers in place. Once the box was all set up, I added the handles to the front and added 4 tie downs to the top.

I needed to find a way to secure this box down so it wouldn't tip or fall out when I had it loaded and out for use. Originally, I was going to drill into the frame and bolt it down. But my wife is a genius and suggested a different approach. I needed to be able to remove the entire box if I needed and also to make it a 1 man job. I found the perfect solution. So I added tie downs to the sides of the box where the 4 tie downs are on the floorboards. 2 are in the rear, 2 are behind the rear seats. I used small clevis pins and a 2 ended tightener. Not sure what they're called but there's a picture. This allowed me to quickly and easily remove and install the box.

In the end I think it turned out very nice. I sprayed the drawers with Rustoleum Bed Liner to add some extra grip. I plan to create a foldable platform that can sit on the drawers when they're fully deployed so it can act as a table. Now I'm ready to haul some stuff without it flying around in the back driving me crazy.
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Nice Job.....

I like the carpet. I went with some cheapo vinyl so it would be easier to clean. Problem is even with ridges it's not very non-skid. I need to add some tiedowns.

That's a great idea using the tiedowns just behind the seats. I'm using the ones closer to the hatch to keep it from sliding out. I'm about to hack my storage box up to add a fridge slide and associated wiring. The box is too tall as it sits, even with a "tilt" slide it would be really close so I'm going to lose one of my storage bins in favor of the fridge. I'm hoping to make a panel I can replace when the fridge is out to recover the storage space but we'll see how my carpentry skills (or lack thereof) work out. I'll need to anchor the box down better or the whole thing could go flying when I pull the fridge out.

Nice idea on the drawer to table conversion. If you add some "feet" to the box it might sit high enough you can slide the "table top" under the storage box then pull it out when needed. I've seen a lot of guys build a small cubby on the bottom to fit one of the small folding tables in the same spot.
 
Good job, the tie-downs you have are called turnbuckles and a great idea to keep it all in place and easily removable!!
 
Looks good man. I used the same tie down points for my drawer system as well. I would recommend moving the top of portion of your tie downs more forward towards the front of the vehicle. I had mine straight up and down like yours and the drawers would slide to the lift gate when going up steep off road hills. Once I moved them it has not moved since.

IDK if this make any since or not. If it does not please let me know and I will explain a little better when I have more time tonight.
 
Thanks everyone. I'm already thinking of my next project for my t4r. Love modding this thing!
[MENTION=148643]Giarc1234[/MENTION] I know what you're talking about. I actually don't think I will have that problem. The soft-close drawers slides actually click the drawers closed. Also, my drawers are literally as large as possible so they actually rub slightly. Another poor planning issue. But they are just a little stiff, which I actually like.

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one of the photos looks like the boards that run from front to back in the center (top and bottom, like the divider for the drawers) are separate... If so, I wonder if you might rip down a 2x4 to slide and fasten in there so that its like a solid divider from front to back, otherwise, I wonder if the top might bow with a load on top of it.... Just a thought... (The drawers would provide stability but they could bind up if there is bowing of the top..)

This one:
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Ya they were like that. I realized how wrong it was pretty much right after this picture was taken and replaced it with a solid piece. If you look at the 2nd to last photo it's a single piece.

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Hey if you don't mind me asking what did this run you $$ wise looks like a great set up.
I'm interested in how you plan to do the sliding platform tray for the top.
I'll be watching this for sure
Great job!!!
 
So the wood was free. My neighbor is building a house so I pillaged his scrap pile which saved me a nice chunk of change. The hardware itself was about $75 at Home Depot. So all in if you paid for the wood I'd say it would be under $125.

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Sorry this took so long. Here is my finishing touch with the foldable table top! Made a black painted wood side and a carpet side. I did a carpet side because I like to shoot quite often and i like a nice soft surface to lay out my weapons when I need to. I can fold it in half for a small table or fold it out for a 3ft ish table. It stows away a little tight but nicely behind the box. I have to lay the seats down to get it in place so i might end up placing some brackets that can hold it to the top of my box one day, but this is perfect for now. Next is to make a sleeping platform extension that I can attach to the box! But that will be a bit before I get to it.
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Looks nice. Carpet was a nice touch. Did you consider using aluminum t-slot extrusion?

I'm thinking about doing something like this for my trunk as well, but with a fold out for a sleeping platform.


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