p0120 p1125 p1128 after installing starter 2002.

[D Farms]

On friday my starter broke its output bearing. I went down to toyota and got a new one and installed it. When I reinstalled the battery the alarm came on. I put the key in the door, and unlocked the truck and the alarm turned off. I went to start the engine and it gave a check engine light but still turned on. the codes are:
p0120
p0125
p0128

these are all related to the electronic throttlebody which came on the 01-02 4runners. I have doubld checked all connections, tested the tps and also swapped in a known to be working tps and its still having the issue. apparently this happens on 01-04 tacos and tundras as well. let me.know if you have a solution or any advice other than reset the efi or trying to disconnect the battery.

 

[D Farms]

Bump.

 

[kball]

I would say drive it for a while and see if it clears itself. Not sure if this is typical of the 01-02's when disconnecting the battery or not but I can't see it having anything to do with your starter replacement.

 

[D Farms]

its not in a driveable condition. its drive by wire, and the throttle pedal does nothing, except act as a backup function.

 

[fourfive]

Not sure if you already looked at the fsm pages on those codes but here's the links to those codes. I came across it trying to hunt down my own P0446 code. Outside of that I don't have much other info.


http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/eg5vzfe/cip0120.pdf

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/eg5vzfe/cip1125.pdf

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/eg5vzfe/cip1128.pdf

 

[JayRolla]

Did you go over all your work. Obviously the starter has nothing to do with these codes so you messed up something somewhere. I would tear down everything i touched and go over it again.

 

[kball]

its not in a driveable condition. its drive by wire, and the throttle pedal does nothing, except act as a backup function.

Well, one easy thing to try is letting it idle for 10-15 minutes. It may just need to relearn itself. Back in the 90's I had a Mitsubishi that would run like crap every time I disconnected the battery. Let it idle for 15 minutes and all of a sudden it ran perfect again.

But from what the FSM says it sounds like something has failed, somehow.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

I did a write up not long ago about the 01-02 TB. I had funky readings from my TPS. It probably will only help listing options to get a new TB.

Throttle Body options for 01-02'

I have a known working TB with a bad TPS PM me if you want to borrow it.

 

[TheDurk]

Sounds like a wiring fault to me. I've looked at the '01-'02 EWD and I don't see any obvious point of fail common to those three, let alone one that you would eff up doing a starter swap. The three components all link separately to the ECU, not to each other, but they do pass through some of the same connectors.However, they are in the dash behind the glove box and I don't see how you could have effed them up on a starter swap.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/015ecs.pdf

So first, like any weirdo electrical issue, check your grounds, especially the one by the diagnostic plug on the engine and the one on the fenderwall. Then I'd run through the diagnostic checks listed in the Engine Control EWD:

E9 (A), E10 (B), E11 (C), E12 (D), E14 (E) ENGINE CONTROL MODULE
Voltage at engine control module wiring connectors
+B-E1 : 9- 14 volts (Ignition SW on)
BATT-E1 : 9- 14 volts (Always)
VC-E2 : 4.5- 5.5 volts (Ignition SW on)
VTA-E2 : Approx. 0.6 volts (Ignition SW on and throttle valve fully closed)
Approx. 4 volts (ignition SW on and throttle valve fully open)
STA-E1 : 6 volts or more (Ignition SW at ST position)
W-E1 : 9- 14 volts (No trouble and engine running)
THW-E1 : 0.2- 1.0 volts (Ignition SW on and coolant temp. 80°C, 176°F)
SP1-E1 : Pulse generation with vehicle moving
STP-E1 : 7.5- 14 volts (Stop light SW on)
IGT1, IGT2, IGT3-E1 : Pulse generation (Cranking or idling)
#10, #20, #30, #40, #50, #60-E1 : 9- 14 volts (Ignition SW on)

The first six should do give you a clue if you see a fail. The others are not likely involved. Pin-outs for the connectors are here:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/connecto/connecto.pdf

If you can't do this, then you need some help. But I'll try to help you through it if you want. [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] might like to chime in here, too.

 

[IBallEngineer]

If you can't do this, then you need some help. But I'll try to help you through it if you want. [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] might like to chime in here, too.

I would I would! Just a few things, before I really dig in. The first rule of diagnosing electrical problem is, check the easy things first. Did I mention to check the easy things first? Yes, I did didn't I?

That means ignoring what you already "know", and assuming a dumb ass like me might have grounded something that doesn't belong grounded, or didn't ground what should be. Same goes for power supply, fuses, AND connections.

I know, all you did was swap a starter, innocent enough. But I know I've had some really freaky things happen doing the most mundane task. So for what it's worth, you almost need to do the job over to be absolutely sure this isn't some weird a$$ coinkindink! Uh huh...

Now, did you guys notice that PO 120 and 125 are nicely spaced, then 128 is spaced by a 3 of all things? Oh sorry, too much helping the boys on common core math, it's making me look for patterns everywhere.

Seriously though, I have access to some troubleshooting help via subscription, but I have to get the password from a friend because I haven't needed it in a while. Soon as I do, I'll chime in again.

Did I mention to check the easiest things first?

:drummer:

 

[IBallEngineer]

OK, I'm back, here is a little info I found.

P0120 and 125 are largely unrelated. P0128 is right out of left field.

P0120 is almost always the TPS sensor. These are the confirmed fixes.

11 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
2 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Connector
1 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor and Throttle Body
1 - Throttle Body
1 - Engine Control Module (ECM)

P0125 is almost always AFR. These are the the confirmed fixes. Notice the INTAKE MANIFOLD GROUND.

12 - Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) Sensor
3 - Bank 1 Air/Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensor
1 - Intake Manifold Ground Connection(s)

I really didn't find anything on p0128, which makes me think these fixes are not your problem, rather something somehow is setting the codes. I would definitely double check the TPS to be sure. But that aside, I think we are looking for some dumb thing. Uh huh...

:violin:

 

[D Farms]

OK, I'm back, here is a little info I found.

P0120 and 125 are largely unrelated. P0128 is right out of left field.

P0120 is almost always the TPS sensor. These are the confirmed fixes.

11 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
2 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Connector
1 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor and Throttle Body
1 - Throttle Body
1 - Engine Control Module (ECM)

P0125 is almost always AFR. These are the the confirmed fixes. Notice the INTAKE MANIFOLD GROUND.

12 - Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) Sensor
3 - Bank 1 Air/Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensor
1 - Intake Manifold Ground Connection(s)

I really didn't find anything on p0128, which makes me think these fixes are not your problem, rather something somehow is setting the codes. I would definitely double check the TPS to be sure. But that aside, I think we are looking for some dumb thing. Uh huh...

:violin:

sorry i was typing fast. its p0120 p1125 and p1128. also ill probably try to swap in that throttlebody from [MENTION=48234]stir_fry_boy[/MENTION]. and yes ive rechecked everything obvious a few times already. ill try the voltage checks next.

 

[D Farms]

[MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

I found in the fsm a section with a diagnostics flow chart that should help me narrow it down to one of three problems: bad tps, bad ecm, or bad wiring. hopefully bad wiring, cause I can fix that. did I mention my motor mount broke a while back...