Post Tundra Brake Upgrade question

Update to anyone following the saga...

Jacked up front end and removed both tires. Everything looked ok. Re-torqued caliper bolts and bled brakes again. This time I included the rear brakes. I did see a few bubbles from both sides in the rear but that could be my setup.

Bottom line, serious vibration on hard braking still there.

One interesting observation...

I have slotted rotors. I am positive that I put the L and R on the proper sides. But it surprises me that the first part of the slot that hits the brake pad is on the outer rim of the rotor. I would think it would be the other way. Any thoughts?

Pouring rain here in south Texas so it will be awhile before I can try something else.
 
Just a quick thought...

I replaced the brake hose on one side with a PROFESSIONAL GRADE BRAKE HOSE. I didn't do the other side since I couldn't get the hose off.

Any chance that could cause the braking vibration? I would think not but thought I would ask.

Thanks
 
Still looking for suggestions/help

Any bright ideas out there?

I'm somewhat convinced that the rotors must not be true as the "throbbing" on braking is very prevalent.

Thinking of pulling rotors off to make sure they are seated flush.

Since rotors are slotted, they can't be turned. So thinking of buying non-slotted.

Two people have suggested looking at rear drums. Still can't wrap my head around that since I feel the throbbing in the brake pedal.

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks
 
Message...LAST

Totally against my intuition but went to Jiffy for free brake inspection... sure enough, the rear brake drums needed resurfacing and I put in new pads. Problem seems to be solved.

Sometimes I should just listen to folks.

thanks all who replied.
 
i've seen when tire shops don't cross tighten the lug nuts, and just hammer down with the air wrench, one lug nut at a time.. it can warp the rotors
 

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