Power Steering Rack Removal: How do I get the pressure lines off??

Well i ended up cutting the line today and installing a new one. I could not get the High Pressure line off. I had no issues with access and getting leverage on it. I had everything unhooked and even disconnected the line from the two frame mounts and the power steering pump. I fed the old line through and had it sitting on the ground under the truck. Still was not able to get it off and it finally started rounding out. I just wound up cutting it with an angle grinder and putting in a new line. I think the only thing that may have worked is if i had and Oxy/Ace torch as the propane hand torch was not getting it red hot per the earlier posts. I hope that this helps the next guy that is going to attempt this job. I would highly recommend that you have an extra line on hand if it is your daily driver. Worst case you can just return it if you do not need it but I think that alot of people end up just having to use a new line due to that one connection. I really appreciate everyone's advice!
 
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I have fought for 3 hours now trying to get the lines off of the steering rack with no luck. I had everything else loose but couldn't get the lines off. Do you know how frustrating it is to work to get everything done except the last step. Anyone have any tips?
 
Royal Pain

Removed mine the past 2 days-that much pita! Crows foot 17mm on rack was destroying the bolt -so I cut the line with sawzall and got 17mm deep on with a u-joint and long extender to 1/2 breaker bar up front near radiator. Don't let u joint twist to the point it allows the socket to pop off or you will nail your hand! I heated with map and used pb several times-and even with it busted loose--it wasn't loose! Still required 300ft# to loosen until about 3 complete turns. The connect on the reservoir was likewise welded to the pump. Again-breakerbar with extensions straight down to along frame with u-joint and about 1,000,000ft#. Just disconnect sensor before turning until the sensor port is against the mount and then the torque will separate the fitting from the bolt. Again-might want to cut the line back as close as you can. If you can get a lift the creeeping won't be so bad-but you will need plenty of muscle! Also wish I had gone to car wash with can of de-greaser with the skid plates removed!
 
Tips on replacing power steering lines 02 4runner

I just replaced my 02 4runner power steering lines.
Here are somethings I encountered that others might find useful;

It looks like there was a leek coming from where the bottom low pressure hose connects to the metal part of that line. It looks like the grey vinyl or epoxy coating on the original line is corroding / separating from the metal tubing and that might be part of the reason for that leek. Looking back the leek might have been stopped by adding a stainless steel crew tightening hose clamp at that junction. I didn't try that.

I replaced the lines with genuine Toyota OEM lines that I found on e-bay for $197 shipping included. I had previously purchased after market Sunsong lines from rock auto for about $115 shipping included. The Sunsong lines looked pretty good being zinc plated but the original Toyota lines are epoxy/ vinyl coated similar to their brake lines which are probably much better for corrosion so I didn't use the Sunsong lines and returned them. The Toyota end line fitting that connects the return hose to the rack is also probably worth the higher price as it's exterior is also coated with the epoxy/ vinyl and the interior of the tube is copper lined.

I managed to replace the lines without having to move the rack though it was difficult to reach in there to get the new hard line fitting threads started and to get the spring hose clamp onto the hose line fitting.

I first disconnected the stabilizer bar end link so I had more room to reach the line to rack connections.

I cut both lines off with a reciprocal saw right at the rack line connector bolts.

With an 18" extension going in from the front, just behind the radiator, I was able to reach both line connector bolts with a 6 point socket and 1/2' drive ratchet and breaker bar to break the old line bolts loose and remove them. I didn't use any heat there because I wasn't sure if it might damage internal parts of the rack.

To install the new line to rack compression bolts I used a standard open end 17mm wrench. It took some time as I could only tighten them one point move at a time. I could see that the original line bolt threads had a white thread sealant on them so I applied locktite hydraulic line thread sealant to the new line bolts.

I installed the return line spring hose clamp with a small needle nosed vise grip (about 6.25" long and slightly angled) This was kind a of tricky but it did just fit in there and put the spring hose clamp on the right spot.

Loosening and moving the rack back about 2 or 3 inches would have made the line to rack connection easier. I've been told that is what Toyota techs usually do.

Up at the power steering pump I had to use a 6 point 17mm socket and a 1/2 ratchet & breaker bar to get the banjo bolt loose as it was torqued way beyond the recommended 35 ft lbs..
I was able to reach that banjo bolt with an extension from below coming up at an angle near the front of the wheel well / bumper. I think I had to loosen the front part of a plastic wheel well splash shield to get the best straight in angle.

I hope this info helps.
 
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Yes I had to go this route on my 03 V8, tried crow foot...no luck. Cut the line just above the fitting, used a deep wall six sided 17mm, universal and four 1/2 extensions coming up by the battery. I hit the R&P with some propane around the area that the fitting screws into. I used a wet rag and cut up soup can to protect the boot on the steering arm. Took a shit-ton of Ft-lbs to crank it off. New one went right back in, but don’t know if I got it tight enough with. Crow foot.
 

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