Rear Axle: Do I Need Bearing & ABS Retainers

tvpierce

New member
I'm about to do the bearings in my rear axle. Do I need to order new retainer rings for the bearing and the ABS tone wheel?

When I've replaced leaky seals in other applications on other vehicles (ie: rear main seal, transmission input & output seals, etc.) it's SOP to simply clean the race on which the seal rides and reassemble. But looking at people's write-ups on the axle seals, it appears people don't clean and re-use the retainers.

What say ye?
 
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Did mine about a month back and ordered 2 new ones and reused the other... Wanted to make sure the surface was nice and smooth for the seal so I only replaced the one it rides on and reused the other.
 
Did mine about a month back and ordered 2 new ones and reused the other... Wanted to make sure the surface was nice and smooth for the seal so I only replaced the one it rides on and reused the other.

Good point: The inner oil seal is the critical one in that it keeps the gear lube in the axle. The outer seal is much less important.
 
It is also possible to pull the ABS tone ring and reinstall it without damaging it. No need to replace.
 
It is also possible to pull the ABS tone ring and reinstall it without damaging it. No need to replace.
Yes, make sure the puller sits evenly or you will bend the ring. Maybe have spares on hand just in case, you can always return them as opposed to waiting a few days for parts. Always cheaper to order in advance online.
 
Every machine shop I've had do the press work needs one retainer ring. It's kinda tricky to get it off without damaging the outer one.

You should not need to replace the ABS ring.
 
Every machine shop I've had do the press work needs one retainer ring. It's kinda tricky to get it off without damaging the outer one.

You should not need to replace the ABS ring.

What's tricky about getting the outer retainer off? Once you get the inner retainer and ABS tone ring pulled off, you hook up your axle tool and press the axle out of the bearing and outer retainer in one shot and the retainer is not touched by any tool. The machine shops must be doing something the hard way or should I say the wrong way.
 
Swap the inner and outer positions on the same side?

Here's two videos that will clear up a lot for anyone finding this thread.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AVhSDnw2ugo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/R-c2x3F8DU4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
watch mtbtm video on this job. He shows it can be done without bending anything and what can be reused. I did buy and use the puller he shows in the newer 2nd edition of rear axle job and it worked slick

not sure if I should resell the puller, don't think I would do much with it in Alaska and in Fairbanks I bet I have seen less than five 3rd gens. But buying the puller ( already had a press) was less than what I was quoted from a shop just to do the press work, and they did not like the idea of flipping the retainer, and I learned some new stuff
 
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the only thing I would add is getting new snap rings, I did not have snap ring pliers that would spread good enough to get them off, so used the screw driver method, which distorted them , luckily I had ordered new snap rings, not much money, because one time past I had a snap ring go flying on me , never to be found in a messy garage until a lot later.....like a year.
 
watch mtbtm video on this job. He shows it can be done without bending anything and what can be reused. I did buy and use the puller he shows in the newer 2nd edition of rear axle job and it worked slick

not sure if I should resell the puller, don't think I would do much with it in Alaska and in Fairbanks I bet I have seen less than five 3rd gens. But buying the puller ( already had a press) was less than what I was quoted from a shop just to do the press work, and they did not like the idea of flipping the retainer, and I learned some new stuff

I bought the same tool based on Tim's video/recommendation -- but haven't used it yet. I'll be using it on my Gen-1 Tundra.
Regarding selling it: it works on other Toyota products so may come in handy.
It works on all Toyota truck/SUV products from '84 on. Gen 1, 2, 3 4Runners, Toyota Pickups (pre-Tacoma), Tacomas, T100s, Gen-1 Tundras.

And with his $43 adapter, it fits these:

(clipped from Duane's Ebay store)

4Runner: Gen. 4 & 5, 2003-2018
Tundra: Gen. 2, 2007-2018
Tacoma: Gen. 3 2016-2018
Sequoia: Gen. 1 & 2, 2001-2018
FJ Cruiser : All
Will also fit the Lexus sister vehicle.
 
So I did the bearings and seals but I'm curious how much free play there should be between the bearing and backing plate. I see on Tim's videos that the bearing practically falls into the backing plate which was the case for me. Now however, the bearing can slide up and down quite a bit within the backing plate. So I'm wondering if I'm missing something or if this is normal. If normal, how is the seal supposed to work if the whole axle and side around? Videos to help visualize my concern.

YouTube
YouTube
 
So I did the bearings and seals but I'm curious how much free play there should be between the bearing and backing plate. I see on Tim's videos that the bearing practically falls into the backing plate which was the case for me. Now however, the bearing can slide up and down quite a bit within the backing plate. So I'm wondering if I'm missing something or if this is normal. If normal, how is the seal supposed to work if the whole axle and side around? Videos to help visualize my concern.

YouTube
YouTube

There's a shoulder on the axle housing flange that recesses against that and locks it into place when you snug up the 4 flange nuts. Nothing will slide around.
 

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