Rear cargo box

euser

New member
So, I got motivated out of seeing so many rear cargo box builds to make one of my own, but with intentions of a different purpose. I don't do much serious offroad in that justifies having more than a tow strap, so I don't have gear to store. However, I always hate when I have my armor or firearm in the car and need to run into the store or leave my car in the wilderness when hiking/hunting. So, I'm building a box that I can lock and keep my armor or a rifle or two in relative safety. Obviously, anything can be broken into with proper tools, so I'm going overkill to minimize this risk. However, I'm no carpenter.

I have 3/4 in hardwood for the base and top. I tested it out by grabbing my biggest hammer and beating the shit out of it, but it didn't break. The sides are 2x6. I plan on loading this thing up with screws and liquid nails. I intend to drill some holes through the vehicle and bolt it in. I'm also debating fitting the outside of the box with (1/8"?) steel plates that the local hardware shop has in stock. I figure it'll make it harder to tamper with. I have no means to weld so I'd just use screws and liquid nails. I'll probably finish the metal or wood with a spray on bed liner or possibly plastidip. I'm cutting everything with a Dremel so it's not all totally perfect, but I used a power sander to even out the edges.

I have yet to decide the best way of locking the drawer.

If it ends up not working out and I feel it's not safe I suppose I'll just get a truck vault. I just figured this would be fun and the overkill of a truck vault isn't very necessary, plus I could save $2k if this works out.

Here's some shots of what I did today. Pretty much just setting up the rough geometry I want to work with. I don't want it to take up the whole rear, so I'm going with a relatively low profile, single drawer design. This way I have less pointless weight and can just toss all my other random gear in the back.
 

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I personally would use a quality wood glue instead of liquid nails. Use only enough screws to create a positive contact on the mating surfaces and for panel alignment. I would also use plywood for the sides instead of those 2x6 boards.
 

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