Recommendations for front control arms

[Bob22222]

I was hoping to get off cheap with sway bar bushings. No way. At least one of my lower control arm bushings is shot. I figure I should do it all.
The way I see it I should replace all four front control arms and ball joints.
The choices range from cheapo Chinese (ha ha no way for this guy) a complete kit from Walmart for about 200 dollars to toyota control for about 1,000 dollars.
I'm thinking moog from rockauto.com is likely my best bet. Which I believe will come in at just under 500 dollars plus tax shipping.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. As well as a link to a good write up on the r&r process from the experienced
Thanks, Bob

 

[Bob22222]

Forgot to mention.
2004 sport edition. V8. Xreas removed.

 

[Syr4RinNC]

So people will say OEM bushings and ball joint are the only way to go. given that the price of just this was way more than new assembled control arms - I went with that option. My cam bolts were really seized and didnt think Id have a chance at swapping the bushings on a 16 year old truck from NY.

I went with 1aauto/ TRQ. They claim lifetime warranty. No issues. Happy so far

 

[Bob22222]

I was just researching TRQ. Thanks for the input. I can get them for about 300 dollars lest than moog. They are made in Turkey, correc

I guess that's my choice.

 

[Bluesky 07]

I went with 1A Auto as well some time ago. Seem to be very solid parts and I've had no issues.

Too bad you're so far from metro Atlanta. I kept my OEM LCAs and would be happy to give another member a very favorable deal if you wanted to rebuild them with new ball joints & bushings. They're so heavy though that the shipping would be ridiculous.

 

[SUXX3SS]

I heard good things about Beck Arnley and so I just bought lower control arms from Rockauto. Was thinking of doing upper controls as well, but I don't think it's necessary for me at this time, but they've got those too...

 

[Bluesky 07]

I heard good things about Beck Arnley and so I just bought lower control arms from Rockauto. Was thinking of doing upper controls as well, but I don't think it's necessary for me at this time, but they've got those too...

The UCAs from late model Tacomas are typically plug-and-play on 4th Gen 4Rs. For example, I have UCAs from a 2020 Tacoma TRD Offroad. Tacoma takeoffs with very low mileage are often available on FB Marketplace at very nice prices.

 

[JustRidin]

The UCAs from late model Tacomas are typically plug-and-play on 4th Gen 4Rs.

That is extremely nice to know. I assume this would be true of aftermarket UCA's as well?

I see more Tacoma aftermarket UCA's for sale on local FB or CL than 4Runner versions.

 

[Bluesky 07]

That is extremely nice to know. I assume this would be true of aftermarket UCA's as well?

I see more Tacoma aftermarket UCA's for sale on local FB or CL than 4Runner versions.

That's a reasonable assumption if the parts look identical but I don't know it with 100% certainty. I suggest double-checking, especially if the part's design differs in some way from OEM.

 

[gaber6]

I have moog lowers. I wouldn't get them again, unless I never drove over any bumps ever. They are lifetime unless you have a lift, which I had a Daystar lift for about 2 years.

 

[grave]

OEM 4 lyfe

 

[Jakeepoo3]

I was hoping to get off cheap with sway bar bushings. No way. At least one of my lower control arm bushings is shot. I figure I should do it all.
The way I see it I should replace all four front control arms and ball joints.
The choices range from cheapo Chinese (ha ha no way for this guy) a complete kit from Walmart for about 200 dollars to toyota control for about 1,000 dollars.
I'm thinking moog from rockauto.com is likely my best bet. Which I believe will come in at just under 500 dollars plus tax shipping.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. As well as a link to a good write up on the r&r process from the experienced
Thanks, Bob

I'm not sure what skill level you're at mechanically. There is nothing wrong with your $1000 OEM lowers. So wouldn't you want to keep them and just press in new bushings instead of buying a cheap arm. I replaced all four lower arm bushings for $80.. from Walmart. I was skeptical on quality so I researched the product. They are German engineered, they know their sh1t. They are the same as OEM on the durometer scale (spring rate). They feel like new OEMs now. Also have a year warranty. Here's a picture of them for my 2010. Might wanna take a look at them for you year model.

 

[Bob22222]

Thanks for the advice but I replaced everything with a trq kit and kyb heavy duty monotube ready struts. I'm quite happy with the results. As for the oem control arms they went in a pile with the oem half-shalfs. Maybe I'll rebuild them all some day (week? month? year?) I should live so long.
BTW these kyb monotube struts rock (literally) and gave me a bit more than inch of lift up front.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

Thanks for the advice but I replaced everything with a trq kit and kyb heavy duty monotube ready struts. I'm quite happy with the results. As for the oem control arms they went in a pile with the oem half-shalfs. Maybe I'll rebuild them all some day (week? month? year?) I should live so long.
BTW these kyb monotube struts rock (literally) and gave me a bit more than inch of lift up front.

Too bad you can't get a 3.5" long travel kit like that for a reasonable price ugh. .. if your truck was a 5th I'd buy your lower arms. If you do rebuild you'll have backups in case the super cheap ones break or could sell them for a pretty fat wad of cash. Also if you would like to gain .5"-1" of lift in the rear to even the truck out 5th gen rear coils will do that. I have a pair laying around. Orange/pink color code rear coils

 

[Bob22222]

Good to know.

I thought was happy but,
How much shipped to 80816?
Thank you, Bob

 

[Bluesky 07]

I'm not sure what skill level you're at mechanically. There is nothing wrong with your $1000 OEM lowers. So wouldn't you want to keep them and just press in new bushings instead of buying a cheap arm. I replaced all four lower arm bushings for $80.. from Walmart. I was skeptical on quality so I researched the product. They are German engineered, they know their sh1t. They are the same as OEM on the durometer scale (spring rate). They feel like new OEMs now. Also have a year warranty. Here's a picture of them for my 2010. Might wanna take a look at them for you year model.

I considered this but went another direction due to the cost of Whiteline et al. So these inexpensive bushings are working, that's great. Did you replace the ball joints as well? If so, with what? Curious b/c my OEM LCAs are in the basement.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

I considered this but went another direction due to the cost of Whiteline et al. So these inexpensive bushings are working, that's great. Did you replace the ball joints as well? If so, with what? Curious b/c my OEM LCAs are in the basement.

Yes, they're working as OEM bushings should. I wouldn't have bought them but the information they provided and I researched compared to OEM was exactly what I needed. My ball joints were in perfect shape so no, not yet.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

I thought was happy but,
How much shipped to 80816?
Thank you, Bob

I don't know, doing that stuff is such a pain. If you set up the shipping so I just have to bring the coils into the shipping place that might be an option. I'm in 72701 on the edge of the beautiful Ozarks national forest

 

[Bob22222]

Agreed. I'm definitely happy with the way the vehicle is handling. I think I'll leave things as is. I didn't mention the rear shocks were replaced about 15k ago with KYBs that give it a slight lift. The front struts also were trashed with the rest of my front end.
In retrospect I believe what happened when I brought in for an alignment after the last struts rather than tell me the my cam adjuster were frozen they just over loaded they bushings and everything all of a sudden let loose...
Not going back there.