Stock TRD OR Capabilities

[Throwback]

When you're ready for tires, and if you're really thinking you're going to get into off roading and airing down, I would suggest a set of BF Goodrich AT KO2s in stock size, C-Load rating. If you want go ahead and get a fifth one for your spare wheel.

I run them and other than the fact that I wish they were black letter on both sides I have been extremely happy with the tires. I've had mine all over the North Georgia forest service roads and whatever trails I could ride without damaging my truck. I've aired down to the 20psi zone a few times and haven't had any traction issues. Just don't forget to air back up before you hit asphalt going home.

My previous truck was a 2000 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 single cab with 4cyl, 5spd, and manual everything. It was totally stock other than Goodyear MTs and that truck was like a mountain goat. The only thing it lacked was a rear locker, but I never wanted to modify it. I kept it for over 200k miles and kind of figured I would do the same with my 4Runner, which is why I've not modified mine yet. I just don't want to introduce any reliability issues, or create any discomfort. These vehicles are extremely capable in stock form.


So here's my advice -

Get a set of BFG AT KO2s in stock size. Your fuel mileage and ride comfort will be just like stock. I run mine at 36psi. (Buy a fifth for the spare if you want, or just swap one of the ones you buy now to the spare rim when you buy the next set.)

Buy a Viair 88P air compressor. They're less than $60 on Amazon. Grab a basic tire pressure gauge while you're at it.

Buy a couple 2"x30ft recovery straps (Smittybilt or whatever), two 3/4" D-ring shackles, and a basic trailer hitch ball mount without the ball (you can hook a D-ring through the ball mount hole). Also all on Amazon.

Buy a basic set of jumper cables. Again, Amazon.

Go buy a cheap Husky tool duffel bag from Home Depot and put all that stuff in it. Add some gloves, a couple flashlights, and some toilet paper in a zip lock bag. And cell phone chargers.

Now go head up to Springer Mountain trail head up near Blue Ridge/Ellijay/Suches and ride around. Check out Forest Service Road 58, Winding Stair Gap Rd, and Hightower Gap Rd. Take a buddy, wife, or girlfriend, and throw some drinks and snacks in for the ride. Go play with all the functions of your new truck and just get familiar with it. There are miles and miles of FS roads with tons of offshoot trails off the main gravel roads. Just don't be an idiot and you'll be fine. Your backup camera will help you ease back out once you realize you don't want to push further. Play with CRAWL, your e-locker, etc. Get used to the squeaks and creaks your frame makes when you really get it flexing. Don't ride the gravel roads with your rear window down though, unless you like fine gray dust on/in every part of your interior.

Lastly - Go get a fresh wash and a nice, thick, high quality wax job before you go. It helps keep the vegetation from scratching the paint as bad. :cowboy:

 

[hbrogers]

I appreciate everyone's input and tips. I'm going to start putting together a recovery kit and look into an offroad class/course.

 

[hbrogers]

Now go head up to Springer Mountain trail head up near Blue Ridge/Ellijay/Suches and ride around. Check out Forest Service Road 58, Winding Stair Gap Rd, and Hightower Gap Rd. Take a buddy, wife, or girlfriend, and throw some drinks and snacks in for the ride. Go play with all the functions of your new truck and just get familiar with it. There are miles and miles of FS roads with tons of offshoot trails off the main gravel roads. Just don't be an idiot and you'll be fine. Your backup camera will help you ease back out once you realize you don't want to push further. Play with CRAWL, your e-locker, etc. Get used to the squeaks and creaks your frame makes when you really get it flexing. Don't ride the gravel roads with your rear window down though, unless you like fine gray dust on/in every part of your interior.

Thanks for giving me a few more places to check out. My wife and I will check those out in the coming weeks. I'll plan a camping trip up in that area so we won't feel rushed and can make a few days out of it.

 

[shrub1]

When you're ready for tires, and if you're really thinking you're going to get into off roading and airing down, I would suggest a set of BF Goodrich AT KO2s in stock size, C-Load rating. If you want go ahead and get a fifth one for your spare wheel.

I run them and other than the fact that I wish they were black letter on both sides I have been extremely happy with the tires. I've had mine all over the North Georgia forest service roads and whatever trails I could ride without damaging my truck. I've aired down to the 20psi zone a few times and haven't had any traction issues. Just don't forget to air back up before you hit asphalt going home.

My previous truck was a 2000 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 single cab with 4cyl, 5spd, and manual everything. It was totally stock other than Goodyear MTs and that truck was like a mountain goat. The only thing it lacked was a rear locker, but I never wanted to modify it. I kept it for over 200k miles and kind of figured I would do the same with my 4Runner, which is why I've not modified mine yet. I just don't want to introduce any reliability issues, or create any discomfort. These vehicles are extremely capable in stock form.


So here's my advice -

Get a set of BFG AT KO2s in stock size. Your fuel mileage and ride comfort will be just like stock. I run mine at 36psi. (Buy a fifth for the spare if you want, or just swap one of the ones you buy now to the spare rim when you buy the next set.)

Buy a Viair 88P air compressor. They're less than $60 on Amazon. Grab a basic tire pressure gauge while you're at it.

Buy a couple 2"x30ft recovery straps (Smittybilt or whatever), two 3/4" D-ring shackles, and a basic trailer hitch ball mount without the ball (you can hook a D-ring through the ball mount hole). Also all on Amazon.

Buy a basic set of jumper cables. Again, Amazon.

Go buy a cheap Husky tool duffel bag from Home Depot and put all that stuff in it. Add some gloves, a couple flashlights, and some toilet paper in a zip lock bag. And cell phone chargers.

Now go head up to Springer Mountain trail head up near Blue Ridge/Ellijay/Suches and ride around. Check out Forest Service Road 58, Winding Stair Gap Rd, and Hightower Gap Rd. Take a buddy, wife, or girlfriend, and throw some drinks and snacks in for the ride. Go play with all the functions of your new truck and just get familiar with it. There are miles and miles of FS roads with tons of offshoot trails off the main gravel roads. Just don't be an idiot and you'll be fine. Your backup camera will help you ease back out once you realize you don't want to push further. Play with CRAWL, your e-locker, etc. Get used to the squeaks and creaks your frame makes when you really get it flexing. Don't ride the gravel roads with your rear window down though, unless you like fine gray dust on/in every part of your interior.

Lastly - Go get a fresh wash and a nice, thick, high quality wax job before you go. It helps keep the vegetation from scratching the paint as bad. :cowboy:

This is pretty close to what I was going to reply with, all good ideas. I would however not mess with jumper cables and would instead purchase a Noco GB 70 (or the like). Most of my trips are solo and remote and if your battery takes a crap because you (me!!) left the radio or interior lights on too long you are screwed.

 

[hbrogers]

This is pretty close to what I was going to reply with, all good ideas. I would however not mess with jumper cables and would instead purchase a Noco GB 70 (or the like). Most of my trips are solo and remote and if your battery takes a crap because you (me!!) left the radio or interior lights on too long you are screwed.

I saw a review of one of those on youtube last night and was planning to ask about it. Good to know it really works and is worth it.

 

[shrub1]

I saw a review of one of those on youtube last night and was planning to ask about it. Good to know it really works and is worth it.

For me it's been an invaluable piece of equipment.

 

[phillyd2]

Bilstein 6112/5100 suspension upgrade
265/70R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
ARB Breather kit
ARB on board air kit
Slee rock sliders
Warn Zeon plat. 10-s with undercover hidden mount (if money allowes)

What's the reasoning for your list here?

What is your current suspension and tires not doing for you?
Will you be doing water crossings?
Why on board air instead of 12v portable?
Why Slee?
You picked one of the most expensive winches, why?

Honestly, if you want to build mostly for looks or forum likes have at it.

However if you want to improve real life capabilities then the smart move is to leave as is and drive it off road to learn what and which you actually require for how YOU will be using YOUR truck.

 

[Nklxwcyz]

I've read a little bit about the Georgia Traverse and seems like it would be up my alley. Now to just find some bike trails and good camping spots on or near the traverse and I'll be in heaven.

Lots of good advice here. Just wanted to share that I drove nearly all the Traverse last year in a bone stock '16 Trail (including the Dunlop AT20s). Grab some recovery gear and go have fun!

There's tons of great primitive camping in the area, much of which is marked on the gpx file you'll find here. I'd also suggest picking up National Geographic maps 777 and 778 (or download the overlays), which show campsites, points of interest, and hiking/biking trails.

Speaking of riding, Bull and Jake Mountain (an IMBA epic) and Brutal Loop are two greats. Lots of fun trails to explore, from technical old-school singletrack to fast flow, screaming descents to serene doubletrack.

 

[hbrogers]

What's the reasoning for your list here?

What is your current suspension and tires not doing for you?
Will you be doing water crossings?
Why on board air instead of 12v portable?
Why Slee?
You picked one of the most expensive winches, why?

Honestly, if you want to build mostly for looks or forum likes have at it.

However if you want to improve real life capabilities then the smart move is to leave as is and drive it off road to learn what and which you actually require for how YOU will be using YOUR truck.

- Don't like the nose dive and body roll while driving on the street and it will be nice to have improved suspension that isn't super expensive.
- I will be doing mild creek/river crossings, which is why I wanted the ARB diff. kit.
- On board air for being hidden and out of the way.
- Slee because it has more of an OEM look and my wife is less likely to notice or disapprove of the sliders haha.
- The reason I like that winch is because of the wireless controls and I thought it would work well as a hidden winch with the undercover hidden winch mount.

I don't give a damn about forum likes, so the purpose of my build is to keep the vehicle looking as close to stock as possible. And these changes aren't going to all happen at once. Just something I'd like to do over time as my skills progress and the trails I drive on become more challenging.

 

[hbrogers]

Lots of good advice here. Just wanted to share that I drove nearly all the Traverse last year in a bone stock '16 Trail (including the Dunlop AT20s). Grab some recovery gear and go have fun!

There's tons of great primitive camping in the area, much of which is marked on the gpx file you'll find here. I'd also suggest picking up National Geographic maps 777 and 778 (or download the overlays), which show campsites, points of interest, and hiking/biking trails.

Speaking of riding, Bull and Jake Mountain (an IMBA epic) and Brutal Loop are two greats. Lots of fun trails to explore, from technical old-school singletrack to fast flow, screaming descents to serene doubletrack.

Thanks for helping me out with which maps to get and providing the link to the gpx file. Bull and Jake Mountain are on my to do list and I plan to camp at the Jones Creek Campground. I read somewhere that it was a pretty good, secluded spot. Also, I found a map for Bull and Jake that links up the parts of the trails to get the most out of the downhills; I'm really looking forward to spending a few days out there biking and exploring.

 

[MossJenks]

Bilstein 6112/5100 suspension upgrade
265/70R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
ARB Breather kit
ARB on board air kit
Slee rock sliders
Warn Zeon plat. 10-s with undercover hidden mount (if money allowes)

Don't bother with the breather kit. It gets you absolutely nothing and is bigger than you want. If you want to do the mod all you need is a nipple, breather (both from your Toyota dealer) and some hose.

Get a Viair 88P first and decided it's way too big and in the way (it's tiny and fits in a little bag) before dropping a bunch of money on some "on-board" kit. Looking around on the forum it might seem super necessary but they're actually pretty rare on the trail unless coupled with an air locker.

If you really want a winch start with a cheap one. You'll probably do like most people and find out you never use it. It's super easy to relocate the control plug if that's what you're worried about. If you get a cheap one and you wear it out then at least you got your money's worth and know what you want in a new one. Better than running around with a big-money chunk of bling hidden in the bumper doing nothing.

 

[Throwback]

Don't bother with the breather kit. It gets you absolutely nothing and is bigger than you want. If you want to do the mod all you need is a nipple, breather (both from your Toyota dealer) and some hose.

Isn't the Toyota breather another one-way unit like the one that is sitting in the pumpkin from the factory?

Are all the other breathers (trans, front diff, etc.) one way units?

Here's how I understood it - Your rear axle is hot from driving around and you drive into a cold mountain stream that submerges it. The factory breather is only one-way so it's not going to suck in water. However, the sudden cooling causes the pumpkin to actually suck water past the seal/gasket.

The two-way breathers like the ARB unit let the air move back and forth during temperature changes. A simple hose extension with a factory one-way breather wouldn't help this issue.

Now if the other breathers are all one-way units it kind of doesn't matter because they'll all suck water past the seal during submersion if we are going to believe that whole theory.

On a stock Trail Edition / TRD OR you'll have to have the water up to the door sills to have the rear pumpkin totally submerged so probably aught to make sure your door gaskets are good too.

 

[MossJenks]

No. That's why you buy a new breather instead of just relocating the one that's currently on the diff housing. part# 90930-03136

 

[hbrogers]

Don't bother with the breather kit. It gets you absolutely nothing and is bigger than you want. If you want to do the mod all you need is a nipple, breather (both from your Toyota dealer) and some hose.

Get a Viair 88P first and decided it's way too big and in the way (it's tiny and fits in a little bag) before dropping a bunch of money on some "on-board" kit. Looking around on the forum it might seem super necessary but they're actually pretty rare on the trail unless coupled with an air locker.

If you really want a winch start with a cheap one. You'll probably do like most people and find out you never use it. It's super easy to relocate the control plug if that's what you're worried about. If you get a cheap one and you wear it out then at least you got your money's worth and know what you want in a new one. Better than running around with a big-money chunk of bling hidden in the bumper doing nothing.

So why do people choose the ARB over your method? Not being a smartass when I ask you that, it's a serious question.

Part of my reason for wanting to go with the ARB CMKA12 is because I saw others post that they went with Viair and wished they had gone ARB. I figured ARB might hold up a little better given the cost although I could be entirely wrong. The other reason is that I'm lazy and don't feel like lifting the hood and connecting it to the battery. I saw how HeartGuy set his up which seemed smart and convenient.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...nd-monies-i-ordered-arb-ckma12-what-else.html

As for the winch, I'll keep that in mind. Hell, by the time I get to the place where I'm ready to buy one, people will probably have miniature drone armies lifting vehicles out of whatever stuck mess they got themselves into and render winches useless.

 

[Jhalko]

There is some solid advice in here, there is also plenty of subjectivity. With where you are today just go enjoy it, it’ll get you where you want. Use good judgement and keep reading and you will be fine.

Sometimes people spend money on things just because it’s easy, I have a day job and don’t enjoy modding, I like using my truck when I am not working, so I bought the ARB breather kit. Choose what fits your need, time, and budget best.

 

[MossJenks]

The ARB breather takes longer to install. You have to figure out a mounting spot for it instead of just stuffing it up over the fender liner. Same below, sticking a little compressor in the back is a lot less work than installing on board air. I get your point though.

So why do people choose the ARB over your method? Not being a smartass when I ask you that, it's a serious question.

People around here buy all sorts of crap they don't need! Look there's cheapskates like me and there's the "I paid $40k for this truck and by God I'll spend another $10k on crap I probably won't need if I want to" crew and everything in between. You choose where you want to go. But if you get a Viair and you wear it out you got your monies worth and are only out $75. But if you spend $300 plus install and only use it twice you're out a lot more. I wheel with a lot of pretty built trucks during the summer. If we stop to air up with 10 trucks, one guy will jump out with CO2. He'll be the first one done but that just gives him time to ***** about getting it refilled. The guy with the blinged out heep will get his airhose out of the back and hook up to his onboard air and the rest of us will get out with our little compressors and get to work. All together it takes 15 minutes or so.

Heck, for a long time I didn't even have a compressor. I'd just fill up at the gas station on my way off the trail.